MSD Blaster SS help needed..

-
grassy

grassy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
5,352
Reaction score
86
Location
Nova Scotia
I bought this unit from a member several years ago. It didn't have install instructions and the paperwork I have found on the net has been weak. I see this unit mostly installed on jap cars..

Has anyone installed this unit with the orange box mopar ignician ..and with a 360 ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
what ohm is the coil? if it is three ohm you will bypass the ballast resistor and run a full 12v to the coil.

i dont remember what the stock coil rating is 1.5 ohm? with that ohm coil just hook it up and go.
 
The specs are:

Turns ratio:70:1
Primary resistance:.355
OHMs Secondary resistance:4.4K
OHMs Inductance:6.9
mH Maximum voltage:40,000
Volts Peak current:300
mA Spark duration:220 uS

Do I do the bypass ?

It has two connections positive and negative...what wires go on to these poles ?

Thanks
ian.
 
70aarcuda said:
http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386210
Click to expand...


Yes, I saw that and the other stuff they have put out but it doesn't help me....wiring is not my strong suit.

MSD 6 or 7 Series Ignition Control
The Orange wire connects to the coil positive terminal and the Black connects to the coil negative terminal. These are the only two wires that connect to the coil terminals.

Do I follow the same instructions with the orange mopar ignition ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
Wire it the same as your original coil.
 
grassy said:
Yes, I saw that and the other stuff they have put out but it doesn't help me....wiring is not my strong suit.

MSD 6 or 7 Series Ignition Control
The Orange wire connects to the coil positive terminal and the Black connects to the coil negative terminal. These are the only two wires that connect to the coil terminals.

Do I follow the same instructions with the orange mopar ignition ?

Thanks
Ian.
Click to expand...

you have to follow the instructions for mopar ignitions... its in there...
 
If you want to know about compatibility, you should look at what the orange box is designed to support or run (coil).

What ohm load does the orange box "prefer"? What load is it designed to tolerate?

I think the orange box is likely designed to tolerate a factory 3.2 ohm coil load at 12- 13 vdc. Factory type coil running at 1.8 ohm and factory type ballast running 1.4 ohms.

the blaster ss is .355 ohms which is way too low for the mopar box to run long term. It will probably melt the mopar box. You will probably need to run a ballast of about 2.6 - 2.7 ohms.

So, if your orange box is designed to operate with a total load of 3.2 ohms at 12 - 13 vdc, then setup your coil to be like that. Otherwise you will likely run into longevity issues with your ecu.

You can run that coil with an HEI module with a .1 or .2 ohm ballast as the HEI will tolerate .45 to .6 ohm coil.
 
Rice Nuker said:
If you want to know about compatibility, you should look at what the orange box is designed to support or run (coil).

What ohm load does the orange box "prefer"? What load is it designed to tolerate?

I think the orange box is likely designed to tolerate a factory 3.2 ohm coil load at 12- 13 vdc. Factory type coil running at 1.8 ohm and factory type ballast running 1.4 ohms.

the blaster ss is .355 ohms which is way too low for the mopar box to run long term. It will probably melt the mopar box. You will probably need to run a ballast of about 2.6 - 2.7 ohms.

So, if your orange box is designed to operate with a total load of 3.2 ohms at 12 - 13 vdc, then setup your coil to be like that. Otherwise you will likely run into longevity issues with your ecu.

You can run that coil with an HEI module with a .1 or .2 ohm ballast as the HEI will tolerate .45 to .6 ohm coil.
Click to expand...


I have both a 4 post and 2 post ballast but is this coil really not compatible with my set up ?

Thanks
ian.
 
grassy,

I think it will be good for you to hear from some of the more electrically knowledgeable folks on here.


What I think based on my understanding which is only superficial and may even be inaccurate:

your coils is not compatible with your ecu (orange box) unless you run an approximately 2.7 ohm ballast. Your factory ballast is more like 1.4.

Also: adding a ballast to that coil will probably result in less than optimum spark because the coil is designed to operate at 12V / higher amperage.

So, either way, that coil wont work (optimally) with your ECU.

I also tend to think this coil is mainly designed to operate with CD ignitions like the MSD controller.
 
Rice,

Thanks. The coil will go into a pile of stuff that I will be selling soon.

Can you recommend a coil for my set up ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
Rice Nuker said:
grassy,

I think it will be good for you to hear from some of the more electrically knowledgeable folks on here.


What I think based on my understanding which is only superficial and may even be inaccurate:

your coils is not compatible with your ecu (orange box) unless you run an approximately 2.7 ohm ballast. Your factory ballast is more like 1.4.

Also: adding a ballast to that coil will probably result in less than optimum spark because the coil is designed to operate at 12V / higher amperage.

So, either way, that coil wont work (optimally) with your ECU.
Click to expand...

yep thats why he needs a 3ohm coil with a full 12v's going to it. i run a petronix 60K e coil on my slant
 
If you are running a factory type Mopar orange box, and your car does not have wire modifications, you will have one or more wire for - and one or more wire for + on your factory coil. I dont know the color codes for - and +.

Do you still have your factory coil in the car now?? If so, how about taking a picture of it so we can see the wires connected to it. Also, take a picture of your ballast wire connections too.
 
That sure looks like the best bet! Relay is a great idea too.

Also, a more basic 4OKV 3.0 ohm coil:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-40511-Flame-Thrower-Volt-Coil/dp/B00199BO4C/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top"]PerTronix 40511 Flame-Thrower 40, 000 Volt 3.0 ohm Coil : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]




805moparkid said:
thats not three ohm. this one is, run more plug gap (.045) nd toss the ballast. i ran a relay.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-60130/overview/
Click to expand...
 
Rice Nuker said:
Do you still have your factory coil in the car now?? If so, how about taking a picture of it so we can see the wires connected to it. Also, take a picture of your ballast wire connections too.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately no. We took out a /6 and gave it away lat year. I have a 360 now but this is my first build of an american brand car. The PO covered our wiring harness with tar and we have managed to clean it up but are a bit mystified where everything goes.

You guys have given me enough info that I can start to make a run at it.

Thanks
Ian
 
We had zero luck with 2 brand new blaster coils with several factory and after market control boxes. This was all found on the dyno, in my wifes 360 race dart.We went with a good quality stock coil/ stock balast res., and it all worked fine. We chased this for a few weeks, and found from some other info that blasters do not work with chrysler electronic ign. There were some that said it worked for them, but they were far and few between.
 
69valiantracer said:
We had zero luck with 2 brand new blaster coils with several factory and after market control boxes. This was all found on the dyno, in my wifes 360 race dart.We went with a good quality stock coil/ stock balast res., and it all worked fine. We chased this for a few weeks, and found from some other info that blasters do not work with chrysler electronic ign. There were some that said it worked for them, but they were far and few between.
Click to expand...

they wont without the correct ohm, no matter the ignition system...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top