MSD E Curve Distributor

[autoxcuda]

I'm dropping in one of these new MSD E Curve distributors. It is a real nice looking unit buy I have one BIG question.

According to the directions that came with the distributor you "drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 terminal on the cap and then tighten down the distributor housing". That is all fine but they do not tell you WHERE to rotate the housing TOO and tighten it down. How does the distributor know when to send the signal to the coil and tell the coil when to fire??

 

[dodge freak]

I got one, love it. Works great. First thing is to read the instructions, I had to a few times and call MSD, lol. You want it set for total advance without vacuum, so like 34 degrees. You turn the dials to lock the advance out, Locked-start-retard curves. Say we go for S curve, with vacuum at setting one. switch 1 is set to 1 and switch 2 goes to 9. You then start the engine and set the timing for 34 degrees and tighten the dist down. That is it, switch one and two just change the rate of advance. Total advance is always now at 34 degrees.

I found not to hook up vacuum and I been getting by leaving it on S curve. Car does have 3.91 gears and a 10 inch T.C. If not I might have found say curve I or E better.

I hope this helps

 

[GMachineDartGT]

I've had one years and love it. Leaving off the true MAP sensor vacuum is kind of a waste. Drop in and start up is just like any other dist. Rotate motor to TDC in compression, get the rotor pointing to approx 5 oclock, so the wires are oriented properly and rotate the dist until the term on the cap is lined up with the rotor. Look at the curves carefully, as some of them may be partially advanced at idle.

 

[autoxcuda]

I've had one years and love it. Leaving off the true MAP sensor vacuum is kind of a waste. Drop in and start up is just like any other dist. Rotate motor to TDC in compression, get the rotor pointing to approx 5 oclock, so the wires are oriented properly and rotate the dist until the term on the cap is lined up with the rotor. Look at the curves carefully, as some of them may be partially advanced at idle.

So are you saying, when a terminal is lined up with the rotor at the same time one trigger piont on the shaft is ALSO lined up with the pickup on the body. even though you can't see that?

I just don't want to be firing up this new motor while turning the distributor around trying to find the timing. With a old school electronic, you just moved the body until a reluctor tip matched up with a pickup. With the E-curve you can see that situation.

 

[dodge freak]

Yeah I don't follow all he is saying.

This is how I got my new motor going last summer. Where the rotor points is close to were it fires but it will be off and yeah you want to bring the motor up to 2,500 fast and hold it there to break the cam in.

So I left the spark plugs out and removed both rocker arm shafts. I then had a buddy crank the engine over--after it was primed and I used a timing light to set it for 34 degrees. It work perfect. I bolted the rockers back on and installed the intake and carb and the baby fired right up and after 5 mins I checked the timing and was right on--like 2 degrees off.

 

[fishy68]

So are you saying, when a terminal is lined up with the rotor at the same time one trigger piont on the shaft is ALSO lined up with the pickup on the body. even though you can't see that?

It should be if the rotor phasing is right and I'd think it should be with a high dollar unit like that.

 

[dodge freak]

Yeah you can just set the #1 piston at 34 degrees btdc, point the rotor to the number 1 cylinder on the dist cap and it be close enough to fire up.

I went a step further but it should be ok that way also.