MSD set ups

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Buschi340

Buschi340

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for street use. Any ignition timing curve and MAP curve which came up as best setting during the last month / years from experience?
 
I've never dyno'd mine yet, but I tried my best to make a factory curve that was as close as I could get to the factory table. Seems like it runs okay, but I'm sure there's probably more left in the tank if I ever get it to a dyno where I can watch it in a little more controlled setting.
 
I hear you there. I've had a few different maps in mine since I got the car on the road and haven't really noticed much difference. Some hard numbers to go with it would be nice.
 
Just curious, how are you triggering your spark?
From the crank or a distributor.
 
Yep, the MSD box plugs into the factory sensors and fires the factory coils, so all you have to do is pick what you want your equivalent mechanical and vacuum curves to look like. Pretty easy setup all said.
 
I asked this same question and got no real answers. I would love to see or hear some. I was told ramp it up to basically all in at 3000 rpm. I have a MSD-6 now and haven't installed the programmable MSD 6AL-2 yet, mostly because of the same questions you have. It's gathering dust on my shelf.
 
No. There was no mention of the motor you were using. I'm running a 408 stroker. I would still like some known use curves to program with.
 
The top chart made 18rwhp more than the bottom - the bottom was my start up tune.

Adding another 3deg all in to the top curve only netted 1 rwhp more.




 
Rat Patrol,
why is the ignition curve going down and not flat?
This is not that much ignition at all. I set my peak at 30° @ 3000 I guess.

Did you noticed a change in acceleration? In combination with the MAP signal maybe?
And finally, what octane your fuel has? We here in germany doesn't have lower than 95 in our fuel. :) But can go up to 102. If required. :)
 
Are you asking why it dips between 4000 and 5000 rpm?

The answer is because I was told by LXmodguy that these motiors are prone to detonation around this rpm range, so I kept the timing curve safe in this area.

These motors are not old iron headed open chamber motors - they require very little timing sdvance because of efficient combustion processes - you will find the timing curve for an LS 1,2 or 3 would be similar.

I havent experimented bringing the total timing in earlier - but its something you can experiment with on a dyno.

I have no idea what you mean by your comment "in combination with MAP signal" -

All I can say is that high MAP is achieved in WOT situation, so you dont want a lot of added timing - eg at 11 psia my MAP advance is zero.

AT low MAP - for example at 4psia during cruise or light throttle, you can add MAP timing To improve fuel economy -

BUT - there are conflicting opinions on what a safe total advance is at cruise...some say 30 deg, some say 50 degrees -

Personally I wouldnt have total advance at low MAP cruise higher than 40 deg.

And as stated - at high MAP WOT conditions, mine stopped making power at 28 deg total, with nil MAP advance
 
thank you. Exactly what I was asking for. MAP is doing what the vacuum advance is doing.
I will copy your set up. Every test on a dyno cost me apprx. USD 150 here in my town..:(
 
Remember MAP is the REVERSE of vacuum

Cruise/ idle - high vac, low MAP = add MAP advance

WOT - low vac/ high MAP = little or no MAP advance
 
anyone have the correct crank sensor part # that should be used with the msd wiring .
 
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