MTF Comparisons?

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jonn6464

1970 Duster
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Hey FABO,

Just wondering if anyone has ran these (possibly all of them), and can report on quality.

Valvoline Synchromesh vs Pennzoil Synchromesh vs Royal Purple Synchromax

For use in an A833 (non OD).

Thanks for any replies.
 
No experience with those.

I used to run 100% Dextron II.
This shifts great! But, leaves very little protection for the cluster pin. So I swapped half of it out, in favor of EP gear-oil. It didn't slow the shifts down that much, lol.
I think I used maybe 80/90, or 85/115; I can't recall anymore, other than that it was a light viscosity.

Just so you know; altho some FABO users report success with synthetic blends,
I had zero success, and I really tried hard to use it. For me, it was just too slippery, making the shifts just too slow, for me.
 
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I have run the Pennzoil Syncromesh. It worked great.
 
This trans repair guy says don’t use any of the synchromesh fluids in old cars.

skip to 11:20 for the oil talk.

 
Crap! I just Filled My New 4-Speed with Valvoline 75W-90 Gear Oil...
It say's it's for a Non-Synchronized Trans? What will I do now?? Drain it before I spin it?
or Send It and see what it does?

1.jpg
 
I have the OD Was running 80w90, then 50/50 with dexron/ then 75w140/ never could get 3rd gear crunch to go away. 1st gear was hard to get into at times. So finally after a year of this BS, I decided to fill it with Valvoline synchromesh. wow the 3rd gear crunch is gone. Never shifted better. Have 5 miles on it and it is super smooth. Time will tell. The unit is going to be replaced. But it works good enough for now.
 
Crap! I just Filled My New 4-Speed with Valvoline 75W-90 Gear Oil...
It say's it's for a Non-Synchronized Trans? What will I do now?? Drain it before I spin it?
or Send It and see what it does?

View attachment 1715949562
Mine ended up having the Dreaded 3rd Gear Crunch (sometimes on a SpeedShift)
and it sometimes Sticks in 1st...
Should I drain 1/2 of the 80/90 and try the Synchromesh? Or Drain it All and Switch?
 
Mine ended up having the Dreaded 3rd Gear Crunch (sometimes on a SpeedShift)
and it sometimes Sticks in 1st...
Should I drain 1/2 of the 80/90 and try the Synchromesh? Or Drain it All and Switch?
I also had the 1st gear issue. The 50/50 gear oil and dexron didn't help my issue, I was going to do the 50/50 with synchromesh, but opted to drain the gear oil and use all synchro. I guess it's trial and error until you find what works. I know GL4 is the correct oil in warm/hot climates and ATF in cold per the 66 service manual. But we do what we have to.
 
Just back from a 35 mile drive. Not one issue with 1st or 3rd gear. Incredible that the synchromesh fixed that issue. However the transmission is noisier. Shifts very easy, and there was a smell from the new fluid, possible what spilled during fill, however its diminished. Over all I'm a believer.
 
Hey FABO,

Just wondering if anyone has ran these (possibly all of them), and can report on quality.

Valvoline Synchromesh vs Pennzoil Synchromesh vs Royal Purple Synchromax

For use in an A833 (non OD).

Thanks for any replies.
I have used the Pennzoil and it works well.
 
I used Pennzoil Syncromesh with great results.
Do NOT use synthetic oil in these transmissions, it's actually too slippery as previously mentioned by AJ.
And that's a pity, I am a synthetic oil type of guy...
 
Is the Valvoline Synchromesh equivalent to a 75W90 by itself or is it a lighter Fluid?
 
Syncromesh fluids are atf bases according to the video in post 4
 
I used Pennzoil Syncromesh with great results.
Do NOT use synthetic oil in these transmissions, it's actually too slippery as previously mentioned by AJ.
And that's a pity, I am a synthetic oil type of guy...
This is a Contradiction! You just said "I used Pennzoil Syncromesh with great results"
and "Do NOT use synthetic oil in these transmissions"
What Gives?
I'd like to try the Valvoline Synchromesh... Is it a Synthetic?
No Offense to you DartNut! Just trying to figure this out.
 
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This is a Contradiction! You just said "I used Pennzoil Syncromesh with great results"
and "Do NOT use synthetic oil in these transmissions"
What Gives?
I'd like to try the Valvoline Synchromesh... Is it a Synthetic?
Valvoline says it's made with "premium base stocks." It has a pretty high viscosity index, one that is usually associated with synthetics, so it may be at least a blend.
 
I have been driving various Mopar A833s, on and off,
for a total of over 32 years, since 1970, and
IDK what a third-gear crunch is, unless it is the sound that these boxes make when the synchro is not biting properly on the brake any more, and the slider starts crashing into the clutch-teeth, of whatever gear you are trying to engage.
What I have learned is this;
This condition is caused by a lack of synchronization, which means, the speed of the selected gear has not matched up to the speed of the driveshaft.
The reason for this could be, one or more of;
A) yur just jamming it too hard/too fast, and/or
B) the rpm has come down too fast, or is not coming down fast enough,
C) the struts are not working
D) the clutch is dragging, or
E) the oil is not dragging the cluster speed down in a timely manner, probably because of a misapplied viscosity, or
F) the oil level is just too high/too low.
G) the oil is sticking to the brake, preventing intimate contact, or
H) you're experimenting with the wrong oil; one that is too slippery, or that has bonded to the conical brakes or brass, at the atomic level,

If you can eliminate this sound with a different oil,
I think it only means one of three things;
1) the old oil you that were using wasn't working anymore and/or
2) the new oil is working correctly, or
3) the new oil is providing some kind of cushion that the slider has to deal with, BEFORE it can engage.
If it's #3, This takes time; if you don't need a fast shift, then that's fine, just wait for the slider.

Depending on which A833 you have, the Point of synchronization could be anything.
Suppose you have the standard box, with ratios of
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00, the splits are .721-.729-.714
So in this case if you shift at exactly 5500 each time, the Rs will fall to
3966, and 4010, and 3927; so those are your synchronization rpms. The thing to note is that from 3927 to 4010, is a window of 83rpm, pretty easy to hit.

But suppose you have the overdrive model with ratios of
3.09-1.67-1.00-.73, firstly, you cannot jam into overdrive cuz you'll blow it up.
Splits are .540 and .599, so from 5500, the shift will come in at
2970 and 3295, a difference of 325rpm. This means, that you have TWO synchronization rpms to try and hit, and they are way way way down there, so, you're gonna have to wait for the rpm to come down, or it will clash; it can't help but clash, because the brass rings just do not have the power to stop all that spinning mass by themselves.
So guess what; A833 gears are not like Saginaws or Fords., they are stinking heavy. It takes time for them to slow down, and in the case of the overdrive, it takes nearly 50% more time to achieve synchronization on the one and 22% more time on the second shift, which in the regular box, are spread over three nearly equally spaced shifts.
So, for best results with either of these,
you are gonna have to run different viscosity oils in each, in an attempt to slow those heavy parts down, to some rpm that the brass can take over from..
And
that's just at 5500 ...........

Happy Shifting!
 
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This is a Contradiction! You just said "I used Pennzoil Syncromesh with great results"
and "Do NOT use synthetic oil in these transmissions"
What Gives?
I'd like to try the Valvoline Synchromesh... Is it a Synthetic?
I don't get why you think that this is a contradiction.
Pennzoil Syncromesh is not a synthetic manual transmission gear oil.
Yes, it is ''lighter'' than regular 90w gear oils, but that doesn't mean it's synthetic.
It's kinda like AJ uses which is 50/50 Dexron ATF and regular GL4 dino gear oil.
It worked well for me in a good condition '71 regular A-Body 833, and I shifted it fast under power...
Valvoline, I don't know of and never tried it.
I do know that Red Line synthetic manual transmission fluid won't work.
A friend of mine tried it in a '69 Super Bee and it clashed.
After dropping the oil and flushing the tranny, he installed the Pennzoil Syncromesh oil that I recommended to him in the first place.
He thought he was doing the ''right thing'' with a customer's car.
 
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Here's Pennzoil 's product data sheet for their Synchromax. It says it's made from paraffinic base stocks. So not synthetic, but with high lubricity. Compared to Valvoline, the cold viscosity is a little thinner and the hot viscosity is a little thicker. That's explained by the viscosity index number, which is quite a bit higher than Valvoline's. I must have been wrong in assuming there is some synthetic base oil in the Valvoline based on viscosity index. Simply put, the higher the viscosity index, the less a lube will thin when heated. I'd use the Pennzoil in any street application.

Screenshot_20240826-153816.png


Screenshot_20240826-154000.png
 
Here's Pennzoil 's product data sheet for their Synchromax. It says it's made from paraffinic base stocks. So not synthetic, but with high lubricity. Compared to Valvoline, the cold viscosity is a little thinner and the hot viscosity is a little thicker. That's explained by the viscosity index number, which is quite a bit higher than Valvoline's. I must have been wrong in assuming there is some synthetic base oil in the Valvoline based on viscosity index. Simply put, the higher the viscosity index, the less a lube will thin when heated. I'd use the Pennzoil in any street application.

View attachment 1716295313

View attachment 1716295314
Thanks for Clarifying! I'm Really, Really not a Pennz guy tho... can't see myself ever buying it. (Not really into Liquid Ball Bearings in my builds. Ha!)
I guess I'll take my chances with the Valvoline Synchromesh that I've already ordered.
Thanks Very Much To All!
 
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Been using Pennzoil Synchromesh for years. Racing, street duty, powershifting.The whole gamut. No problems whatsoever.
 
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