Mustang Style IFS Swap 1968 Dart

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Powerslave

Somewhere in time
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I don't know if it was from what appears to be a hit at the front, or it could be from the one of the past owners who thought it was a good idea to pull the car out of a field with a tractor by the bumper bolt holes but my front clip is trashed. I have ordered two new inners and I'm still thinking about how I am going to do this with my dart but the basic plan is that I will run a 2x3 square tubing rail from the back rails to the front of the car, if I can find a shop that has a bender this will be a breeze but I may have to cut the rail to the shape I need.

I have found a site that sells a good looking tubular front suspension for $1500 (waaay cheaper than RMS and magnum force) and I am considering going with them. It's a fairly basic design from what I can see, main concern is how far it pushes the wheels in or out. Here is pretty close to what I'm considering, but in black.

77E39970-6378-4179-9569-876402124BFE-8988-00000BADC7CE385D.jpg


Description: ZIG's Street Rods offers a nice new affordable complete Independent Front Suspension. Includes: Crossmember, your choice of Stock or 5/8" narrowed Tubular Upper & Lower Control Arms, black powder coated springs, gas HD Shocks, Stock or 2" Dropped Spindles, Large Brake Kit with 11 inch Rotors with 4-1/2" Ford Pattern or 10-1/2" Rotots with 4-3/4" GM Pattern, Comes with 3/16" boxing plates where necessary. Comes standard with Manual Rack, for Power Rack ADD $100.00.

Somewhere around $1600 for that set up, no idea if they will add some more fees on if I ask them to lengthen it, they have free shipping to certain states but being in Canada I have no idea what shipping will be, I'll ask though. Their other suspensions are really nice, so are scotts IFS's.

Seems like a good deal, I have to call them and see if they can have it made to A body frame rail width (34 inches outer to outer, 30 inches inner to inner). Be nice to see other people do this if it works out pretty easy, I for one am sick of the 60's tech torsion bar suspension. First thing I have to do right now is build a rotisserie that bolts onto the door hinges so I can work on the engine compartment area with ease.

Going to add that I will be using a motor plate to mount the engine (pretty sure I'll go with a 440 for now), no idea how you would do it with motor mounts but I think they have some IFS's that have motor mounts but they are likely ford and chev specific.
 
There is a reason the Alter-K costs what it does...........because it fits.......
 
i would think by the time you buy that thing, buy the things you don't know you need to make it fit and your time screwing with it only to find out its not an ideal set up for your car that you will have more into it then if you just went out and bought the alter-k. but hey thats just my opinion,,,
 
i would think by the time you buy that thing, buy the things you don't know you need to make it fit and your time screwing with it only to find out its not an ideal set up for your car that you will have more into it then if you just went out and bought the alter-k. but hey thats just my opinion,,,

x2
 
Mustang II is not known for handling. The aftermarket support is coming around for the mopars. Borgeson has a new fast ratio power steering box , and Hotchkiss for example has the support to make your mopar handle great. There is a reason you dont see many mopars cut up to make these fit , a step backwords from an updated mopar suspension.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZX7jINa_ho&feature=related"]Hotchkis Challenger Autocrossing @ Goodguys Pleasanton, CA - YouTube[/ame]
 
I keep trying to explain this to people.

Been rehashed here many times:
Basic suspension parameters of the Mustang II and longitudinal torsion bar suspension as used in the A body cars are very similar and benefit from similar upgrades to the bushings, spring, shock, stabilizer bar, wheels, and tires, provided the basic structure has strengthened to support any increase in suspension stiffness.
Perceived superiority of the torsion bar suspension is a result of lower unsprung corner weight because the springing medium is totally sprung weight, and because the engine box structure does not need to be as heavy and rigid when the suspension corner resistance is applied down low at the center of the chassis pan, as opposed to high into the engine box structure directly over the wheel.
 
I don't like the alter-k, I think the magnum force one looks a lot more professional than a bunch of square tubing, I've read the arguments and that's my opinion. I really don't have 5 grand to dump into suspension and I don't want to spend that much because it's just a street car, the main advantage I'm seeing with this suspension is a much greater increase in space for headers and oil pans, also it cuts some weight off and looks a lot nicer than stock k's. If I had the money or the time, I'd go magnum force, but I do not so I'm going with this, the entire front end has to come off anyways as its beat to **** and if I'm going to put it back together I want to utilize as much aftermarket stuff as I can get. The tubing im guessing is around $200, I'll put a fair price down for the IFS at $1800, I wouldn't count the cost of the inner fenders because they would be replaced in either application.

The car is just going to be used for street driving, the hardest I'm going on the suspension is maybe when I take a loopy road to have some fun, no wheel stands because it will be fairly low. This is the other company I'm considering going with: http://www.scottshotrods.com/frontends.asp
 
I don't like the alter-k, I think the magnum force one looks a lot more professional than a bunch of square tubing, I've read the arguments and that's my opinion.




oh my god no you didnt just say that :D now they are going to take you out to the wood shed and beat you for saying you dont like the rms..:burnout:.thats like saying there is no god to some here..lol
 
I don't like the alter-k, I think the magnum force one looks a lot more professional than a bunch of square tubing


lol.. can look awesome but if the geometry sucks and you have fitment issues what the hell good is it..
 
hell if your going to go with a round tube one just because "it looks better" you may as well buy the one from control freak.. that one should work pretty good since its a direct copy of the alter-k only in round tube. :)
 
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: you was warned......lol :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::protest::-k:-k:-k:-k:-k:-k:-k:-k:-k:-k
 
Having your front frame rail piled up is a blessing in disguise . You can start fresh with the rail width ,height and placement .
You are not constrained with the retarded upward angle of the front frame rails the make the upper controls arms on the alter-k and Bob's disaster front end abortions fumble through their confused travel . Put the frame rails at 10 degree's up and make a standard A-arm suspension that you can buy anywhere.
Front suspension geometry is covered in many books and there are plenty of excellent tech articles that will explain in detail the fundamentals and standard pivot points in order to reproduce a competent front suspension .

To many people think front suspension is voodoo magic ( similar to the torque converter ) and are afraid to build their own , if you have the resources than do it yourself .
 
No one has mentioned HemiDenny's K-frame. Cant wait until I get mine. Little more leg work, but have a look at the quality of his K-frame and at a decent price.
 
Magnum Force???? Really? magnum force? are you F#@%&$# kidding me? BAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAA!!! GOOD LUCK my friend. I honestly HOPE you do end up buying that garbage. You'll learn...

RMS-Only way to go....
 
Magnum Force???? Really? magnum force? are you F#@%&$# kidding me? BAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAA!!! GOOD LUCK my friend. I honestly HOPE you do end up buying that garbage. You'll learn...

RMS-Only way to go....
but it looks awesome.....
 
I agree square tubing does look bulky and dated . Drag cars stopped being built from square tubing 10-15 years ago ( that's where most of the die hard mopar guys are stuck also ) . There is no right or wrong answer , some guys still think the purple cam shaft is the best and people are crazy for not using it . Just because the bolt on crowd thinks it the be all end all , doesn't mean the the fabricater guys have to agree . Build your own if you have the resources .
 
Square, round, octagon. I don't care what looks the prettiest. I want the one that performs the best and is proven on the street and track. Also I want real world positive feedback from actual customers.
 
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