My 1970 Dart Swinger

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weldedrail

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Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
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Location
Modesto, CA.
Kind of new around here but not new to Mopars. I bought this 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger in 1996 for $400. It needed a few things like a battery and starter, points and a spare tire but I drove it 75 miles home without any problems. Over the years it needed just about everything and keeping this car driveable has taught me a lot about cars. I rebuilt the front end, master cylinder, 2 rear ends, (blew up 2 7 1/4's and currently it has an 8 1/4), rebuilt the 318 on a $150 dollar budget, and many other things. I had it re-painted in 1998 complete with a new vynal top. About 7 years ago I was hit in the drivers side quater. The accident folded up the rear valance and dented the quater pretty bad. At this point I bought a new truck and parked the Dart with hopes to restore it someday. It started to seem like I would never get to restoring my old friend and entertained a few offers to sell it but I just couldn't so there it sat. The weather is not kind to the steel under vynal tops and within a few years there was rust.

Then one day I happened to be in the local Pick-n-Pull wrecking yard looking for good bumpers for one of my destruction derby cars (one of my other hobbies) when I came across a nice 71 dart with an almost perfect rear valance. I pulled it off and it got me thinking I was already half way towards fixing the wreck damage on my Dart. My main roadblock to restoring this car has always been where to start?

Now I had found somewhere to start. Fix the wreck damage. This has led to stripping the top, gutting the interior, pulling the front and rear glass to fix a little rust in the rear window seal area and the front becouse the glass was cracked and needed replaced anyway. Having the front glass out allowed me to remove the dash and repaint and re-cap the dash pad, rebuild the ac/heater controls, and repaint the plastic dash bezels and guage cluster.

Now I have been sanding for about 3 weeks and I am almost there to 100% bare metal. No real suprises as to the condition of the body. Haven't found any rust (except for the top), or unknown bondo. I knew about a few spots of filler on dings and where the passenger fender had a dent. What I was suprised to find was the method used to delete my emblems. I was under the impression that the shop had welded the holes. I can now see that they tapped each hole with a hammer and scuffed the metal and then filled the indentations with filler. I am now thinking about putting the emblems back on. I always liked the car without the embelms as they are kind of obtrusive and most people couldn't tell what it was without the name on the side.

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Almost done sanding!

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Passenger side finnished.

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The new rear valance that started the whole restoration.

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My quater panel slowly getting there.
 
Cool car! I have the exact car but started with brakes,a much smaller task. It was to test me and see if I could even do the project. Turns out I can!

All you need do is keep the ball rolling.Nice work btw!
 
looks awesome. i love bare metal. what kinda primer-paint you going with?
 
looks awesome. i love bare metal. what kinda primer-paint you going with?

Really wish I knew the answer. I know I want it the same color, Y1 Bananna, other than that I am still weighing the benifits of several types of paint systems.

I need to decide quickly as bare metal rusts quick! Thinking about hitting it with an etch primer soon to solve the bare metal flash rust problem.

I have access to a booth at the shop where my brother in law works, and he will be shooting the color for me. The machine in their shop can only mix single stage as thats what they mostly use on diesel trucks. With the few cars they paint they order base/clear from a paint shop. I can get a pretty good discount using their single stage. If I go with base/clear it will be more money.
 
i ve been down both roads. i ll never do another singlestage job. unless its black. base clear is easier to work with. if you mess up in single stage...its not as forgiving as clear coat. specially with color matches. if you decide to shoot singlestage...i d paint the whole thing at the same time.
looks good. you re doin an awesome job. good luck
 
Spray some epoxy primer on there as your first coat. Etching primer is old school.
 
i d go epoxy also. i did my 71 with etch primer and i went epoxy on my 72.
 
Car looking good. I have just sprayed epoxy on my car. now getting ready for the body work and hope to paint by the end of the month.
Good luck.
 
Got busy over the long weekend and finnished stripping my car to bare metal. Bought some DTM Epoxy 2K 3 in one primer today as well.

I also used my soada blaster to finnish stripping the areas where the DA can't reach such as the cowl vent louvers. Now how to get all that baking soda out of everything and everywhere!

One good thing about gutting the interior, I found my build sheet!
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that s a nice looking build sheet. when you soda blast...doesn t the soda leave some kind of coating on the metal when its done? a guy from a soda strip company told me that once at a hot rod show. how do you get that off? just a bath or?
good choice with the epoxy. good stuff
 
that s a nice looking build sheet. when you soda blast...doesn t the soda leave some kind of coating on the metal when its done? a guy from a soda strip company told me that once at a hot rod show. how do you get that off? just a bath or?
good choice with the epoxy. good stuff


Thanks for the tip, I will look into that. I know they reccomend baking soda and water, and then soap and water to wash panels after using aircraft stripper so maybe soap and water, dry it, scuff it and then shoot it. I only soda blasted a few key intricate areas.
 
Finnished the drivers side quater panel and got a little bit of primer on today, overall had a productive weekend on the dart.

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looks great so far! nice solid car to start with

best stuff for soda removal is holdtight102 i supply that to my customers after i blast with soda. you can use it in a pressure washer but we prefer to just spray on/wipe off.

soda is water soluble and the metal is not reprofiled like sandblasting so water will not cause it to flash rust, hose out the cowl and you will be fine.
 
Finnished primeing all of the panels during the week. Spent Saturday and Sunday block sanding and glazing the low spots. Hope to get another coat of high build on during the week so I can block some more.

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I did my best to pull out the indentations left when the emblems were deleted but they still required a little glazing. Since I have all of the emblems and they are in good condition they will be going back on the car.

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cant wait to gte down to this kinda work on my 70. wont be for a couple years when i actually have cash. way to go, hangin onto it though. im sure itll all be worth the work when you put your finishing touches on it.

besides the body work, what else needs attension? interior? drive train? ect
 
I plan on hanging onto this car. It was my first and has seen a lot of memories. The body probablly needed the least amount of work but thats where I started due to a minor accident, and then neglecting the paint and letting the top rust. It will get all new weather stripping, catwiskers, and seals, front glass, carpet, and headliner. I plan on carpeting the trunk and maybe a couple of 10" subs in a box. Gonna get the A/C going again too. Need some tires and wheels too. As for the drive train it has an 8 1/4 that will be swapped out for an 8 3/4 at sometime. The tranny is a recently rebuilt 904 and the 318 has seen better days, smokes out the garage when I fire it up. I am planning a rebuild of the 318 next winter, or at least I will check out the block condition and proceed from there. I do have a 383 with a 727 sitting in the field that I pulled from a destruction derby car...hmmm.
 
haha sounds like a fun toy in the works! bench or bucket interior? and where you plan on gettin all the stripping,ect. mines gonna need all that too an i cant seem to find one place that can sell all the inertior and window stuff
 
It is a bench seat car. I have been looking on here and ebay for deals on tail lights, marker lights, weather stripping, carpet, etc. If I can't find a deal all of the stuff needed can be bought from Roseville, Dante's, Year One, Legendary Interiors, JC Whitney, Rock Auto, etc. Dante's has a nice interior kit that includes carpet, headliner, kick panels, front and rear seat covers for $900.
 
Wow no kidding? Hope they still got that when I get project money! I was quoted $1k for parts an labor on my headliner(I believe they need to replace my windshield as well), $1k on part an labor an my bench. Is that a sale price or a constant price for the kit??
 
I had a few days off work so I pulled the motor on Friday...

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Then on Saturday I stripped the engine bay down to bare metal.

On Sunday we painted, first some DTM Epoxy Primer and Sealer...

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All Sealed, ready for color...

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Color!

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Clear makes it pop!

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The trunk and doorjams are preped and ready, just need to get some more time to get some color on those.
 
That's lookin pretty slick! Maybe you said it and I spaced, but where has the car spent most of its life? The body seems to be a great condition. Call me crazy, but I've always wanted to see a yellow dart with a wide, offset, darkish grey racing stripe on it. I dig the banana yellow.
 
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