My 318....Is no more..... :(

-
Not sure here but I think you guys are missing the fact that only 360's got the external balance damper.
cast or steel, the 318273 & 340 ALL used the same balancer, diff #'s over the years and even exterior design....some solid ring...some recessed ring...some larger outer diameter...
I have 3 different factory types laying the shop now.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Not sure here but I think you guys are missing the fact that only 360's got the external balance damper.
cast or steel, the 318273 & 340 ALL used the same balancer, diff #'s over the years and even exterior design....some solid ring...some recessed ring...some larger outer diameter...
I have 3 different factory types laying the shop now.
Click to expand...

I was just thinking the same thing.

maybe he has a 360 balancer on his 318 crank? reason for one bolt not centering up and also for it being on hand tight and not having to be removed with a puller.

my 318 that I recently rebuilt had a forged steel crank in it but the bearing surfaces were ate up and the crank would have needed turned....so I just bought a new crank but the one I got as a replacement was a cast crank but it had drill holes in the crank so its balanced so I don't think there is any difference in my components being balanced as long as the crank is balanced .

maybe that was the noise you were getting?.....maybe you had the wrong balancer,hense the bolt hole not being centered,only being on hand tight and POSSIBLY maybe the outside diameter was larger than a 318's and the seal in your timing cover was a stock 318 style (meaning) the dampner was to large in diameter compared to the inside diameter of the seal which was making a tight fit and causing excessive friction and making your noise???

just a thought.
 
Jebus, what a mess. Cast or forged crank 318's are all internally balanced. You should take advice from someone that actually knows something. You did a lot of work for absolutely no reason. You yourself said the noise was louder at the front of the engine down low, how do you equate that to the rear cam plug? Tourque converter pump bushing or the like, please tell me.

So while you're at it go ahead and tear the tranny apart too, if you don't find anything there maybe it's in the differential...

Whatever, I'm done, you guys are just plain out of control...
 
Guitar Jones said:
Jebus, what a mess. Cast or forged crank 318's are all internally balanced. You should take advice from someone that actually knows something. You did a lot of work for absolutely no reason. You yourself said the noise was louder at the front of the engine down low, how do you equate that to the rear cam plug? Tourque converter pump bushing or the like, please tell me.

So while you're at it go ahead and tear the tranny apart too, if you don't find anything there maybe it's in the differential...

Whatever, I'm done, you guys are just plain out of control...
Click to expand...

No offense but you seem pretty high strung.....we don't claim to know it all just like you should not.

we are all just trying to help him out with " IDEAS " (things to look into that COULD be the problem)

I am not going to argue about it or anything...I am just saying....don't get so strung out on it man. Be coooooooooooool LOL8)
 
I'm not, MD 318 is the one with parts strewn everywhere and no direction. For the most part you guys are enthusiasts and that's fine. I've spent 35 years as a Chrysler tech. I don't purport to have seen it all or even know it all but I can tell you I've seen damn near all of it. MD 318 has been taking advice from enthusiasts that really don't have the experience to be giving it. That's not a slam on any of you, I realize you are only trying to help but as I've read this thread half the people offering advice haven't even comprehended the original post. Reading comprehension on the net is just piss poor, not that I'm not guilty of it myself but where a logical and methodical diagnosis could have been performed here, it's now lost. Jumping to conclusions has never fixed a car and I suspect it never will.

Maybe he should have just done like all the Chevy guys at the track do, get out the timing light and rev the piss out of it. Seems to work for them...
 
I aswell as others mentioned to look into things before going any further at the start of this hole thing and most of us are trying to help him out at what point he is at.....so after he has ripped into the motor we cant all exactly say HEY GO SPEND A BUNCH OF MONEY AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND CHECK IT OUT AND MAYBE HAVE TO RIP IT BACK APART AGAIN ( LOL).......since he had already started ripping it apart....all we can do now is try to help him pinpoint any problems that he may be able to find while the job is in its current state.

not to mention....he obviously has the drive to do the work and he obviously takes pride in taking care of his vehicle since he has done so much work with it.....so I do not see how it is a bad idea that he will have the comfort of knowing he has personally been in his engine and that everything is up to par......and he has found problems since he has been in the engine and plans on doing a cam swap also...so it is not as if if it was a waste of time.

but lets leave it at that and not clog up his thread...no sense dwelling on what "could have been" lets help him go from this point forward!
 
So, Guitar Jones, now that I have it all apart, and since you think it was simply the front seal in the timing cover, I guess I can't really tell by looking at it...Is there a way to tell other than having to listen to it make the noise? Like you suggested earlier, score it with a knife 6 times or whatever?

Also, DusterDude72 and everyone else that has tried to help me, I DO greatly appreciate it...

As was said by dusterdude, I am not stressing really about this situation anymore, but I am learning a few things and I don't think it's a complete waste of time either...After all, I do get to put a new cam in, paint the engine and everything orange like I wanted, instead of chevy black like it was. lol...And I'm also glad that I do know what all is in this engine, that it was bored .060 over, has flat top pistons and the like...lol...Which brings me to my next question btw, there is a "360" stamped on both of the heads...Does that mean they are 360 heads as well? I'll get pics of the numbers right now...
 
mopardude318 said:
Okay, looking my manual, I think I have a forged crank dampener on my cast crank engine...lol what do yall think?

2d9pxrb.jpg
Click to expand...


The Damper on the left is for an External Balance engine like the 360 scenario that 1Wild is talking about. The Damper on the right is for an Internal balance engine......
 
I have 2 340s and one 341 running on 5 thats not the problem.Never had a cam wear the plug like that,normally they have quite a bit of room between them. So far im drawing a blank.If i come up with anything ill let you know
 
the offset bolt thing is h=just a 70 or later design change.

GUITARJONES
Heres the real deal..
Diagnosis of engine noises through the internet is not the way.
I was a tech for yrs and still build and tune.

I ain't no magazine enthusiast, armchair racer, hotrod santa clause, google tech, expert, 'guuuuuruuuuu' or the rest of whatever some retired 'netwit' says 'you people' are.

tell us sherlock...
was there oil leaking out the front seal??
did he say there was?
how bout if it sat for 20+years in the weather?
gee..that seal would be pretty hard after all that time huh?
so much for noise

if he burnt it, it would leak at every stop.


who said to pull it & tear it apart?
 
360 70-72 1.88/1.60

340TA 70 2.02/1.60

340 71-72 1.88/1.60
not sure which of these is what you have just yet....ill let you know what i find
 
Guitar Jones said:
Back in the day when we used to do timing chains on these engines we would replace rhe front crank seal, and it would squeal. To fix it we'd take a knife and with the tip scratch across the balancer hub where the seal rides six times evenly spaced around the circumference.
Click to expand...

really? I grease mine before the balancer go on, never had this problem.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
they are [because of the int valve size]=71-73 915 w/1.88 int valve
if they were factory 2.02=70-71-340
Click to expand...

Okay, I measured the valve with a set of calipers and I got 1.88 and 1.60 for the valves...I guess I'm happy to know that they aren't just regular 318 heads...lol
 
mopardude318 said:
Okay, I measured the valve with a set of calipers and I got 1.88 and 1.60 for the valves...I guess I'm happy to know that they aren't just regular 318 heads...lol
Click to expand...

different heads,punched .060 over,double roller chain,different cam,looks like someone wanted to ad a smidge more "UMPH" to it at some point in time.

now make it your own,run your cam,clean it up,inspect it,maybe a couple other goodies,paint it up,gasket it,put fluid in and have yourself a peppy 318:cheers:
 
:stop::stop: Unless you want to rebuild your motor.

I can't believe what i am seeing but at this point this is what i would do.
1)Check the bearings.
2)Take the heads apart and bowl blend them.
3)lap the valves.
4)cut the heads .010 to true them up\\\ cut the intake side also
5)install new valve seals.
6)install new valve springs for the new cam.
7)flow the heads and then pick a cam.
8)new double roller timing chain
9)Port match the intake to the heads.
That's it.
DO NOT TAKE THE PISTONS OUT.
You have already made so much work for your self and any thing else will be the complete destruction of a good engine.
The bores look brand new.
Leave the bearings alone if they check out.
Replace the rear cam plug if it makes you feel better.

Guitar jones seems to be blow away at this, and i can't disagree with him.
I to am a little shocked.
The statement about the chevy boys is so true.
If you guy's seen what some of the chevy guys run at my track you would swear it would blow up.

ANYWAYS]]]]
You seem to have a lot of energy and THE WILL to fix your engine.
Just use it to your advantage AND STOP GOING ANY FURTHER.

Remember== oil pressure means life.
No metal in the oil means the parts are working together and are happy.
There was no reason to take the motor apart.

BUT SINCE YOUR THERE ,I GAVE YOU MY 2 CENTS TO MAKE IT WORTH YOUR TIME.
Make sure you match the cams lift per head flow #s and go ..030 over max flow with your lift.
Match the duration to your compression \converter stall speed \ and gear.


PS \\get a good mopar small block engine book at the book store.
any of the ones by larry shepard are a good start.
GOOD LUCK and slow down.
 
The cam you have will work good if all else is in order.
The heads you have should work great with that cam but i hope you have enough compression.
At least 9.5.
Mill the head a little if you have to.
Check your valve clearance first with the cam installed before you mill the head.
Like i said if all else is in order.(compression\converter\gear)
That is a large cam for a stock-ish motor but will make great power with the right parts.
 
I already have the "how to hot rod small block mopar" and also "how to build big inch stroker small blocks" lol....I guess I am going a little too fast..lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top