My 360 Six Pack build!!!

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polara1974

polara1974

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Buenos Aires - Argentina
Hi!! I would like to share with you the parts combination that I used for my 360 Six Pack. I've just put together this engine about two weeks ago and has only seen a few minutes on the engine stand running just to check on leaks an other issues. Everything went OK and now the engine is in the car at the exhaust shop to get the headers done and being an early A bodied car this will take some time ...

My goal was not to sqeeze this engine for all out performance but only to run the Six Pack and to use parts that will perform well with this induction system, so I choose the following:

LA 360cu 0,03 overbore
Scat 3,58 cast crank
Scat I beam rods
Pro Tru Wiseco 4,03 flat top forged pistons
ARP Main studs + Milodon Windage tray
Melling HV pump
RHS LA heads with 2,02 / 1,625 and minor porting (bowl blend, port matching and some guide work too)
Comp Cams MEchanical Flat tappet 20-231-4 282/290 244/252@050 .520/.540 LSA110
Induction: Six PAck all brand new repro parts

The pistons ended up 0,020 down bore and the compresion ended up at 10,3:1

Still I need to dial the initial timing and distributor curve and final advance. I'll try to get the engine with the most initial timing without pinging and 34 total aroung 2000/2500, not sure about running vacuum advance or not yet. And of course to play with the Six Pack carbs, that will be fun!!!

Enough of the reading here are some pics of my engine!!!
 

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Just about identical to my 360 + 6, only I have a little more compression and ported J heads.
 
I did had an issue with the 273 rockesr and I wasn't able to use them.

They were hitting the valve spring retainers badly and also the pushrod cup was hitting the rocker at full lift, I don't have close up pictures, but they were a no go, at least without some mods.
Since my friend had two other adjustable rockers sets in hand, one being a Crane stee/lductile iron and another a Proform Aluminum, both 1.5 we gave them a try. I didn`t wanted to go with the Proform, so we first tried the Crane, but it was still hitting the valve retainer. So in was the Proform and everything cleared OK.
I'm not sure about keeping this rockers in the engine, but for now they are in. Only thing is that I'll be changing the adjusters with some Crane adjusters, to improve those a little.

What do you think about them? Will the Proform with Crane adjusters hold up? I'm planing to rev this thing around 6500?

Any comments will be much appreciated on this matter or anything about my engine!!!
 

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I would get the comp cam pro magnums, I run the same cam you have with the recommended double spring, they work great.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Just about identical to my 360 + 6, only I have a little more compression and ported J heads.
Click to expand...

Great!!! Can you share your ignition and fuel settings with me to get a base start?

So Far I have put #63 jets in the center carb and Quick Fuel jet plates with #77 on all 4 ends, power valve is 65 with yellow springs. Not sure about this, just taking a wild guess while I have my carbs off the engine. And my outborad carbs have the idle mix screws open 1/4 turn and my center 1-1/2.

How much vacuum at idle are you pulling with this cam?

Thanks!!!
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
I would get the comp cam pro magnums, I run the same cam you have with the recommended double spring, they work great.
Click to expand...

Those are the ones I was looking at. I don't like aluminum rockers for a street engine.

Another thing that caugth my attention is how close the pushrods stay in the heads pushrod holes at full lift. Should I be worried about this?
 
I have the old mechanical direct connection carbs so not sure how it will translate to the vacuum but I have 64 center, the ends are staggered at 77/78 78's on the deep plenum side. My A/F meter shows still lean at WOT with a 13.5 so I think I'll end up with close to 79/80 on the end carbs, I have a lean tip in when cruising so I may up the 6.5pv to 8.5'and see what happens. Vacuum on my engine is about 7.5" at about 850 rpm in gear and about 12" in park at about 1,000 rpm. I run msd 6al, I'm at 11.2 cr and run on pump 93 so my initial is about 14 btdc with about 29 to 30 total.

View attachment image.jpg
 
Can't help with the carb settings since they are different. I think you would want at least .030 between the PR and head.
 
"has only seen a few minutes on the engine stand running just to check on leaks an other issues"

If this motor has a new flat tappet cam, you need to break the motor in properly, 20 minutes at varying rpms above 2500 rpm, no idle time! Hopefully, you won't be posting about yet another flat tappet cam failure that will be blamed on everything from cheap off-shore lifters, soft cam cores, or lack of zinc in oil. Aside from my soap box preaching, that is a nice looking motor.
 
middleagecrisis said:
"has only seen a few minutes on the engine stand running just to check on leaks an other issues"

If this motor has a new flat tappet cam, you need to break the motor in properly, 20 minutes at varying rpms above 2500 rpm, no idle time! Hopefully, you won't be posting about yet another flat tappet cam failure that will be blamed on everything from cheap off-shore lifters, soft cam cores, or lack of zinc in oil. Aside from my soap box preaching, that is a nice looking motor.
Click to expand...

That I did. "A few minutes in the engine stand" actually means "25 minutes in the engine stand @2000/2500 RPM with zddp aditive added to the oil". So hopefully there should be no tappet or cam wear!!!! And also took the inner spring out of the heads to reduce break in spring pressure.

If there is a fairlure... I will not blame anything, only Sh...t happens sometimes. Welll... Lets hope not!!!
 
Although I have allways wonder how does speeding an engine with windage tray helps to get the oil to the camshaft from the rotating assy, since as long as I understand thats the meaning of going to 2500rpm, to get the crank spreading oil all over the bottom of the cam. But then again tyere is a windage tray there to cut the oil in the rotation assy... So go figure.
Anyway I just did that, but the question still remains in my brain.
 
It's more for keeping the lifters spinning quickly in there bores, the cam will get plenty of oil from the top especially with a HV pump.
 
Hi all!!! Here is an update on the headers fabrication. This is taking much longer than I expected, but since my car is an early A body and the room is tigth I wont complain about that.
They are being made in stainless steel and right now the drivers side is finished, so they will move to the passenger side today. Since I added Power Steering and that will take some headers room against a mechanical steering box, I also moved to an Hydraulic Clutch setup to remove the Z bar and I used a Flaming River coupler for link.

Well here are the pictures, still needed more welding al this point .. hope you like them!!!

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mopowers said:
Damn, that's a lot of work! Nice job. Is there a reason you're not using pre-bent tubes?
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Its only because I like that look on ss headers. The guys at the headers shop are used to work like this so I went along.

I have seen Dougs 450 headers on early A body and I didn't like them, the collectors hang too low, too close to the ground.
 
Wow! Hell of a job your doing there. And yea! Header fab does take a good bit of time and even more so in this case of tight spaces.
 
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