My 360 Six Pack build!!!

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EL5DEMON340 said:
I have the old mechanical direct connection carbs so not sure how it will translate to the vacuum but I have 64 center, the ends are staggered at 77/78 78's on the deep plenum side. My A/F meter shows still lean at WOT with a 13.5 so I think I'll end up with close to 79/80 on the end carbs, I have a lean tip in when cruising so I may up the 6.5pv to 8.5'and see what happens. Vacuum on my engine is about 7.5" at about 850 rpm in gear and about 12" in park at about 1,000 rpm. I run msd 6al, I'm at 11.2 cr and run on pump 93 so my initial is about 14 btdc with about 29 to 30 total.View attachment 1714877333
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Hi Demon!! I do have a question for you, since we got very similar engine combos. I cant get more than 10" of vacuum at 900rpm ... I really thougth that 12/14" was totally doable with this cam and 10,3:1CR. What do you think?
Rigth now I'm set at 15BTDC and 34total at 2700. 63 on center carb and 77/70 on front and rear and stepped dow to 4,5PV. I do seem to have a leaking issue on my center carb through boosters that I can not fix ... double checked my fuel level and al three are at the bottom of the hole as they should. This makes mi idle kind of erratic and also is messing with my idle mix screws since they do affect idle and vacuum but not that much as expected... I'm kinda lost there.. Any help will be much appreciated!!!
 
I only pull about 7.5" in drive at 850rpm . In park at about 1,000rpm it's at 11 or 12". I keep the initial at about 14 so I can keep the throttle blades open more. I think a lot of guys turn up the initial way to high. Not sure on your end carb jetting, I'm guessing you have metering blocks? Anyway the spread seems way to big I would go with 79/80 from what my car is doing. Make sure there is no trash in the needle and seat, if not make sure your square on all the idle transfer slots.
 
Alright, i'm back!!! I have some issues with my engine that I wasn't able to fix until a week ago. Startes with two bent pushrods in cylinder #2, further checking showed that all pushrods were hittin the cylinder heads towards the intake side, also that the heads/spring combo was not supporting my cam lift (I purchased my heads from ebay user wjrwolfe1 and send my camshaft data to be sure that the spring combo will suit my application... even at 1,6 ratio and I used 1,5 ratio), so the retainers were lightly hitting the valve seals. So go figure. My fault for not double checking averything as I should.

Long story short I took apart the engine top, send the heads to machine the valve guides lower + extra clearence on the pushrod holes + changed dual springs to behive to get extra rocker clearence since this was also an issue when I asembled the engine and the only rocker that fitted there were the Proform ... yes ... I know ... Now with behive I can put there my 273 OEM rocker with no problem or my Crane Ductile with no problem.

Now the car is running again but I'm having some odd thing with timing that started back right before I have the bent pushrod issue. I will start another port about that, but bottom line is that I getting 30º o more initial advance ... no pinging or kickback ...

I'll add the link here ..
 
polara1974 said:
Alright, i'm back!!! I have some issues with my engine that I wasn't able to fix until a week ago. Startes with two bent pushrods in cylinder #2, further checking showed that all pushrods were hittin the cylinder heads towards the intake side, also that the heads/spring combo was not supporting my cam lift (I purchased my heads from ebay user wjrwolfe1 and send my camshaft data to be sure that the spring combo will suit my application... even at 1,6 ratio and I used 1,5 ratio), so the retainers were lightly hitting the valve seals. So go figure. My fault for not double checking averything as I should.

Long story short I took apart the engine top, send the heads to machine the valve guides lower + extra clearence on the pushrod holes + changed dual springs to behive to get extra rocker clearence since this was also an issue when I asembled the engine and the only rocker that fitted there were the Proform ... yes ... I know ... Now with behive I can put there my 273 OEM rocker with no problem or my Crane Ductile with no problem.

Now the car is running again but I'm having some odd thing with timing that started back right before I have the bent pushrod issue. I will start another port about that, but bottom line is that I getting 30º o more initial advance ... no pinging or kickback ...

I'll add the link here ..
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Just for the record, you aren't running enough cam to have valve train issues like you are having. You need to STOP everything right where you are and get the geometry correct. You could have used 273 rockers but the geometry is wrong.

You need to go to B3racingengines.com and read EVERYTHING he has written in his tech pages. You have ISSUES. You need to address that before anything else. I run .620 lift and I could have used 273 rockers.

Stop and get a handle on what you are doing or you are going to have a parts eater. Well, it's already eating parts. Fix your geometry issues fast.
 
Yellow Rose, my valve train issues with 273 OEM Rockers and Crane Ductile were that they didn't have enough clearence between the rocker and the springs, so the spring retainer were hitting the rocker, I wasn't able to even bolt them. Aftermarket aluminum rocker have recesed clearence there and they fit. I move to beehive spring just to get a wider option of rocker for my setup.

Other thing that is know and I missed is when using mechanical flat tappet cams extra pushrod hole clearence is needed, i checked that at Hughes Engine web. I have done this now.

Now for the Rocker geometry, I did check the rocker travel on the valve tip with the Proform rocker and they were almost at center (a little bit to the shaft side) and along the cam lift they moved out (@0,50) and back to its position from @0,50 to total lift. Don't remember how long was the pattern on the valve stem top, but sure it was short!!! What am I missing?
 
I do not want my engine to eat parts!!!! with 16 miles I have to take the entirely top end!!! S now I'm gona triple check everything!!! So please point in the right direction.
 
polara1974 said:
Yellow Rose, my valve train issues with 273 OEM Rockers and Crane Ductile were that they didn't have enough clearence between the rocker and the springs, so the spring retainer were hitting the rocker, I wasn't able to even bolt them. Aftermarket aluminum rocker have recesed clearence there and they fit. I move to beehive spring just to get a wider option of rocker for my setup.

Other thing that is know and I missed is when using mechanical flat tappet cams extra pushrod hole clearence is needed, i checked that at Hughes Engine web. I have done this now.

Now for the Rocker geometry, I did check the rocker travel on the valve tip with the Proform rocker and they were almost at center (a little bit to the shaft side) and along the cam lift they moved out (@0,50) and back to its position from @0,50 to total lift. Don't remember how long was the pattern on the valve stem top, but sure it was short!!! What am I missing?
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Seriously, I could type it all out, but you need to go to b3racingengines.com and read what he has written. Or call him. His name is Mike. He is a FABO member, but I haven't seen him post lately. I would say grab a pad and pencil because Mike will give you a TRUE education from him. I learn from him every time I talk to him. I'd bet every last thing I have your geometry isn't correct. Other than the pain in the *** way of machining the stands and using blocks, his system is the ONLY way I know of to correct geometry. The ONLY other way I know of than the blocks.



And I want to say this. I don't make a dime off of sending Mike work. I don't get a discount for sending him customers. Nor would I ask for or expect one. BUT I use his stuff and it works. And it's EASY. So when I find a SIMPLE, EASY, COST EFFECTIVE way to help MoPar guys I ride that stuff like a 2 dolla *****. I'm bummed I didn't think of it, but damn glad he posts his knowledge on places like this, or I would have never found him.


Take my advice and didn't look back. I'm not making a thin red cent on the deal. I just want to see you successful. So does Mike. So do all the guys who post on here. That's why it's done. Even if wedont always agree. Hell, I been doing this **** since I bought my first car in 1980 and motorcycles before that and TO THIS DAY, it's hard to find two engine builders who agree on more than a couple of things. That don't mean they are out to screw you. We are just different in our thought processes.

Now call the guy and get some help. PLEASE!
 
I did came back to B3RE and read again his post on Rocker geometry. I will send him an email about my issue with rocker and start from there. Bad thin is that I'm in south america this will take a longer than expected. Thanks for the advice
 
polara1974 said:
I did came back to B3RE and read again his post on Rocker geometry. I will send him an email about my issue with rocker and start from there. Bad thin is that I'm in south america this will take a longer than expected. Thanks for the advice
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Being out of the country does make it tough. But I promise, it will be worth the wait.
 
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