My 383's toast

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I have a completely rebuilt 413 that is ready to go will new pistons, rods, cam, timing set, and more.
 
There are a bunch of hones out there. I've found the best thing is to use some green scotchbrite over the stones of a flex hone (rigid stones) and I use wd40 as cutting oil. It really only removes the glaze and the new rings (moly) seat quick and seal well. I've done it on several newer 4cyls and a 383 before with excellent results. If you really "hone" you can create more issues with ring seal long term than you fix. Most drill type hones are too rough for todays rings.
 
welcome to my world I just got mine to move under its own power and it gave the squeel of death today I got it a year ago and checked it all out put it in the car and havent had it running more than an hour I guess what I am getting at is if your already questioning it I wouldnt use it based on my experince but I think mine was hot once or twice. And the water trick works great for cleaning a motor its like an internal steam cleaner for motors
 
Comments are correct, you are seeing normal carbon deposits on a well-worn, low compression 383. A real low budget rebuild would include knurl pistons and refit, lightly hone cylinders with new rings, new crank brgs, new cam brgs, new timing chain, new cam, rebuild heads, all new seals and gaskets. Any thing less is not worth the risk.
 
moper said:
There are a bunch of hones out there. I've found the best thing is to use some green scotchbrite over the stones of a flex hone (rigid stones) and I use wd40 as cutting oil. It really only removes the glaze and the new rings (moly) seat quick and seal well. I've done it on several newer 4cyls and a 383 before with excellent results. If you really "hone" you can create more issues with ring seal long term than you fix. Most drill type hones are too rough for todays rings.
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Hey...I thought I was the only one that used that trick!! LOL Works great for today's rings!:-D
 
I wish I could say I thought of it...lol. I learned it from a Stock Eliminator guy some years ago.
 
Murray said:
Comments are correct, you are seeing normal carbon deposits on a well-worn, low compression 383. A real low budget rebuild would include knurl pistons and refit, lightly hone cylinders with new rings, new crank brgs, new cam brgs, new timing chain, new cam, rebuild heads, all new seals and gaskets. Any thing less is not worth the risk.
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Yup, that's what I did to my 440, it came out quite affordable. I fully rebuild the motor, painted it with high temp paint, got a deep sump oil pan, new oil pump, water pump, re-ring, freeze plugs, bearings, mild cam, timing chain setup, plugs, wires, headers, etc. Did it for $1200, including the engine.

It's an RV 440, still makes plenty of power and gobs of torque, until later on I can afford go fast/light parts. I would guess it has 300hp and 400ft lbs with the cam and nice header upgrade.

Good luck with your 383, my old man always told me to get a 383, but I went for cubes instead of revs. Doesn't hurt that I got the engine and trans for $400 either.... 8)

One day I'd like to do a 383.... Keep us updated!
 
65Val said:
I've used this several times as well. I used it on my late Mom's Valiant 6 that was REALLY carboned up(imagine how slow an 80 year old lady drives!). Trickled water down the carb while revving the engine...you should have seen the crap that came out the tailpipe!...and boy did it run better afterwards!
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Water works great, just look at a head that has blown a headgasket, the area where the gasket broke will be steamed cleaned from the boiling water.

I remember the look on the honda kids :)shock:) at school when we where doing fuel system cleaning and I was trickling water down the carb, they thought I was insane. But it works great. :-D
 
340_dart_power said:
Not knocking this technique, but I'd be more inclined to buy a can of Seafoam and use it before introducing water into an engine internally.
Just MHO.
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+1 on the Seafoam. .

I run a can on each of my vehicles about once per month with a fuel fillup, and do the Carb treatment about once per year,too.


Good stuff in my experience





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Just my opinion for what it's worth.....
Take all of the pistons out and inspect them closely.
If one has a chunk out of the skirt, how far are the other ones behind for failure?
Don't run it as is, it probably is a hand grenade waiting to happen!
Check the bores for taper and ring ridge at the top.
Check the piston skirts for collapsing (we allready know one is bad)
You might get away with changing the pistons to some good used ones, hone, new bearings, and rings, polsh the crank by hand, and a good cleaning. Buy a decent quality gasket set.
The carbon build up looks like to me that the engine was idled a lot and never revved past 3000 rpm.
If that's the case, i bet the cam is a broom handle now.
Honestly, i would consider this engine a good rebuildable core, find one that's running good and use that one until you can afford to rebuild this one properly.
I agree that it would be a good trick to run an engine and use water to clean the depsits out of the combustion chamber and pistons, i've done that before and it works good like everyone says, you just gotta wonder how badly it would plug up the mufflers though....
 
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