My 5.9 into '68 Dart swap

-
Man, that is looking really great! Bet you can't wait to hear how it sounds.

Would you happen to have part numbers for that fan and fan-clutch you are using?
 
Last edited:
Man, that is looking really great! Bet you can't wait to hear how it sounds.

Would you happen to have part numbers for that fan and fan-clutch you are using?

Yeah, getting excited to get her running. I'll probably have to fire it up at least once with open headers before I install the new Summit 2.5" X-pipe kit and hook up the rest of the exhaust.

As for the fan, I have no part numbers. Just knew I couldn't use the fan that came with it, the fan was a big 9 bladed sucker cause the engine came from a ram 2500, and the clutch was froze up.
I just went to the local pick a part yard to look for something else. I ended up buying two different fans trying to find one that moved the fan a little closer to the radiator. Ended up with a 5 bladed fan and a clutch that has a slightly deeper nut on the back where it screws onto the water pump. But it only moves it about 1/4" closer. Cant tell you what its off of cause I don't remember, could be from a grand Cherokee, Dakota, or Durango. I was just checking everything mopar.
 
Guess I'll have to do the same. Every one I've looked at looked as if it would be up into the radiator I have and that one looks a bit more low profile.

Anyhow, she's looking awesome. Keep us updated like you have been!

I've had to put mine on hold for now but the block is in great shape and ready for parts. Just trying to research as best I can.
 
on mine, i trimmed the ram fan down a half inch i believe, and used a clutch for an 09 ram with a 4.7. moved the fan about an inch toward the rad. works great in my stock shroud. about half in and out.
 
Well not a lot to report. After a summer of going camping every other weekend, then deer season for two weekends, and then a 10 day 2600 mile road trip to Oregon, I'm finally getting back to the car.

Had big plans for today, get the starter in, radiator, hoses, fluids, etc.
So I'm under the car wiggling the starter into place and I look up and see one of the header tubes is resting right up against the side of the torsion bar.
Damn, I really thought I was done with pounding dents in my $600 headers. So gotta unbolt the drivers side one more time and see if it will drop down enough so I can dent it were needed.

Better get back out there if I'm going to get anything done today.
 
So I unbolted the drivers side header which will let it drop down a few inches, just enough to pound a dent where needed to clear the torsion bar. So bolt up back up, snug the bolts and get back underneath. Torsion bar clearance is good on that pipe, but now the pipe next to it is touching the torsion bar.
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Put a dent in the next pipe, bolt it back up, looks good.

But now that I have the mini starter in I notice that on the bottom of the starter there is a silicon boot covering up a big wire that bolts to the bottom. This boot is touching the top of the pipe that goes under the starter, and the connection that's inside that boot is probably only 1/8" away from the pipe. So to fix this i'll have to remove the starter, and jack the engine up so I can pull it towards the passenger side, so I can yet again try to slip the header completely out the bottom, so I can pound a dent in the top of that pipe.

I've had it with headers. I've already made 5 dents in these pipes to clear the steering box and torsion bars, and now I'm headed for number 6.
 
Last edited:
Well had some good luck. I was able to just take the starter back out, leave the header in place and bang a little dent in it with my 2lb sledge. Here's a pic.

IMG_0624.JPG
 
Well, been busy. Finished my madd electrical ammeter bypass. Got the radiator in, hoses on, distributor in, plug wires etc. Filled the engine with antifreeze through the thermostat opening. Then mounted my t-stat and housing. This way the engine would have plenty of coolant in it before the t-stat opens.
Any way, finished up some small details this morning, filled the carb bowls by dumping some gas in the vents. I pumped the throttle a few times to see if it was squirting from the accelerator pump.
I setup the movie camera, jumped in and turned the key.

It fired up almost instantly, ran smooth and even idled pretty good considering the carb has been setting on the shelf for a year and a half.

It Is ALIVE !

having trouble getting my edited video to play, but i'll have it up soon.

IMG_0646.JPG


IMG_0648.JPG
 
Looks beautiful! Every post you put up gives me hope for doing mine. yours look so much better than mine right now...

IMG_20171025_131907209.jpg
 
This has probably been answered but, where did you get the A/C delete pulley/bracket set up from? I ran my swap without it. It is quite a distance.
 
This has probably been answered but, where did you get the A/C delete pulley/bracket set up from? I ran my swap without it. It is quite a distance.
It's a Dorman 34178, Advance auto parts had it in stock. Only problem I had was finding a long enough belt. I ended up buying a smaller pulley for it.
 
I think I got the video fixed. This is with just headers and some 18" collector extensions. And in case anyone wondered, I did prime the oil pump. Took a long piece of 3/8" all thread, ground a hex shape on the end. Dropped it down into the oil pump and ran it with a drill for a couple minutes, while turning the engine over slowly by hand.
 
That's great it started right up. Have to let us know when you get it out for a drive man.

More questions! Where did you get the smaller bypass pulley and what did you end up with for belt length?

I finally found someone selling a steering pump and van bracket for less than most wanted for the bracket itself so will be running the same setup hopefully.

Have you decided what you are doing for an air cleaner?
 
That's great it started right up. Have to let us know when you get it out for a drive man.

More questions! Where did you get the smaller bypass pulley and what did you end up with for belt length?

I finally found someone selling a steering pump and van bracket for less than most wanted for the bracket itself so will be running the same setup hopefully.

Have you decided what you are doing for an air cleaner?

Ended up with a 101.3” belt, was the longest 7 rib belt I could find. I got the smaller 3.5” pulley for the a/c bracket at Advance auto parts. Just went to the Dayco website and did a search for 7 rib pulleys and got a p/n and then called the parts store.

I really want to build a custom air cleaner, I’ve had the design in my head for a long time. But for now I have a big block dual snorkel that someone took the snorkels off. Probably just use that till I build the custom one.
 
It's a Dorman 34178, Advance auto parts had it in stock. Only problem I had was finding a long enough belt. I ended up buying a smaller pulley for it.

I am using the Dorman A/C delete bracket and the van power steering pump. I went through a couple belts and found a 7 rib that fits. I'm out of state for work but ill be home this weekend and get a part number.
 
I am using the Dorman A/C delete bracket and the van power steering pump. I went through a couple belts and found a 7 rib that fits. I'm out of state for work but ill be home this weekend and get a part number.
Cool a part number would be great. I’m good for now but at some point I would like to put a/c on the car and then I will need a longer belt
 
It's a MasterPro belt from oreillys. Part number K071013. The pointer on the belt tensioner is lined up perfectly to keep proper tension.
20171027_212617.jpg
20171027_200834.jpg
 
You forgot to pull the cable out from the sleeve! I JUST finished up installing my lokar cables. Im sitting in the car with a brew while "testing" the cables.
 
NNNNOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

Yessss, unfortunately I had the cable in and out a few times, and it was in there when I cut the outer part. Replacements are available, but it will cost me $30 and a week to get it. The piece that I "trimmed off" is actually long enough to use, but it doesn't have the little ball on the end. I'm thinking of checking one of the local bicycle shops to see if the have something that will slide on the cable and be secured with a set screw.
 
(Go) kart racers have some slick little cable adapters that use allen head set screws. Have used them on my sons karts. Maybe BMIkarts.com?

Cool build man!
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top