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The best fitting headers are gonna be: TTI Doug’s Schumacher
Beautiful car! B5 blue is really nice, and so is the three speed.
Thanks! That helps a lot!
Thanks! I'm kind of partial to the color myself. And with the three speed this car was a lot of fun to drive. Definitely looking forward to getting it back on the road.
It's been a while since I've had anything to add worth mentioning regarding my Duster project, but after thinking about it for more than thirty years the engine finally came out this afternoon. I don't know if it was truly necessary or not, but the service manual said to pull the transmission first. The space does look a little tight, so perhaps the engine won't come out with it attached? Regardless, I pulled it and the drive shaft. Progress! Woohoo!!
Nice work, awesome car! Following!
I got the heads off today and confirmed that the valves had all hit the pistons and that they're all bent as a result. But the damage to the pistons appears to be negligible, and in spite of sitting for thirty years (at least) with the intake manifold off, the rest of the engine looks pretty decent. I had been worried about the cylinder walls, but they look fine. At this point the crankshaft can be rotated by hand so nothing is seized up. Next comes tear down. Fingers crossed.
The engine is finally disassembled and so far only a couple of issues have turned up, though once everything is properly cleaned I may find more. The heads have been dropped off at a local machine shop for rebuilding, so I don't have to worry about them and can focus my attention on what's left. Slight steps have been formed on the cylinder walls by the piston rings just below the top on all cylinders, and on one cylinder very light corrosion has formed on about a third of the circumference beginning at the top and extending about two inches down to where the piston was sitting for thirty years. So I guess that means the cylinders will need to be bored out a bit to clean them up. The other problem I found is a bit of scoring and galling on one of the crankshafts rod bearing journals. I'm told this can be repaired, but I'm wondering if I might be better off replacing the crank? I've done a little bit of looking around and they don't seem all that expensive. I'm thinking a machine shops services could quickly add up to more. Any thoughts?
Well...the engine will need to be bored out to correct the issues with the cylinders, the crankshaft and camshaft are toast and will be replaced along with the oil pump and pistons. So this coming week it all goes off to the machine shop to join the heads that are already there. Since the engine has been out I decided to take advantage of the added access and clean up the engine compartment, which I did this past week. The plan is to paint the fire wall and inner fenders before the engine goes back in, but now that it's cleaned up I don't like the look of all that rust on the k frame and front suspension. It just doesn't seem right to put the engine back without first addressing that. So it looks like I'll be dropping the k frame and repainting and rebuilding the front suspension as well, which means added expense and time. Funny how a project always seems to grow once you get going.
I'm told it's called mission creep.
I just saw this thread now. Hello from a fellow Pittsburgher! I'm just about to yank the 225 for a 383 swap in my '75 Scamp. I'll be doing the same thing - cleaning up and painting the engine compartment.
I'm fairly new to the Pittsburgh area. Moved here in 2017 from Los Angeles. Thanks for the welcome! Yep, I've heard of it. Had hoped to avoid it as much as possible, but being afflicted with a healthy dose of perfectionism I suppose I should have known better.
Great looking car and nice progress. Project creep happens to all of us, expect more being you have the perfectionist gene, but don’t worry it’s a worthy cause that you will not regret having embarked on. I had never looked for or thought of looking for that tool which appears in first pic of post #30, to brace the engine with from the top, for trans removal. I had just supported the engines by either using a floor or a 2X4 and a ratchet tie down strap, nice tool. Given you will be removing the k, you may want to consider reinstalling the motor trans kmember as an assembly through the bottom of the car. Many pros/smart members here say there is no other way to go. Here are a few threads for reference. This first one is a removal, but helpful in reverse order for install. 528 Hemi Removal, time for a clean-up! Next one is an install. pics of engine/tranny/k-member jig to install Pay special attention to the tip of the day in post #3. Another install thread. installing engine trans and k with headers attached from the bottom Also, if you decide to go more the traditional rout of top install, it has/can be done with engine and trans mated together. Engine install questions And another top install. Engine With Transmission Attached Installation - Pros & Cons Good luck, and keep us posted.[/QUOTE]
I had never heard of this tool either, but the factory service manual made reference to a tool to support the back half of the engine for trans removal and gave a part number for it. When I researched the part number this tool and others like it came up. I really liked the fact that with it in place the car can be moved. Mine came from Harbor Freight. 1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar Thanks for the links to the various threads on engine removal and install. I'll be reading through them this evening.
Does anyone have any thoughts on OEM style rubber bushings vs the newer polyurethane? I'll be ordering a kit to replace all the bushings in the front suspension this week and am kind of conflicted at the moment. I'm currently leaning towards OEM style rubber, but if there's a compelling reason to go with polyurethane I'd consider changing my mind.
While stuff is on the car, check the joints for play. With the (lack) of quality on a lot of replacement parts, it sems best to evaluate, then replace. If you have to replace the uper control arm bushings. 'Problem solver' versions can be used to get a little more positive caster than the stock range. Really only worth the extra effort if you're the type of driver who wear's the outside tread of the front tires. LOL Only place that I think you might want to consider poly is the front sway bar. IF you use poly bushings on the endlinks, get the thicker, heavier washers and tubes as well. If you use poly on the mount bushings, put a zerk fittings on the bracket so they can be regreased.
Thanks Mattax. Your comment about polyurethane for the sway bar end links reinforces what I was thinking. Everything else will be OEM style rubber. The upper control arm bushings were replaced with factory parts the year the engine died, so they haven’t seen much actual use. But I have to wonder what sort of toll thirty years of sitting in my parents driveway has taken on them. I’ll likely replace them just because. As for the decline in the quality of parts, yes, I’ve noticed. I was going to replace the transmission mount since the rubber had completely failed, but the metal on the new part was half the thickness of the original and poorly made. I ended up just replacing the insert instead and did the same with the engine mounts.
The engine came back from the machine shop today and is finally ready to reassemble. In an unexpected development it turns out this engine left the factory in September of 74 bored out to .020 oversize. The shop machinist said that while not common, it does sometimes happen when a block has an issue that can be corrected by oversizing. So to correct its new issues it’s now bored out to .040. Now comes the fun part.
I feel I should explain the lack of progress here. First I got stuck at home due to the lockdown and couldn’t do anything with the car since it’s in the hangar I work from (which was off limits). The lockdown in turn has severely impacted the auto industry, to which my company is a major supplier. Orders have been way down, so now the flight department has been idled and employees furloughed until August. If we actually get called back in August I’ll be fine. The engine is now in my garage and the car is at a friends place, so I can finally get back to work on it. With any luck I’ll have some progress to report soon.
So this past week has been a perfect example of Murphy's Law. I got the pistons installed and then started looking into what would come next, and in the process I discovered that I didn't have either the cam shaft key or the crankshaft key here at my place. It turns out I'd never removed them from the old parts(which were still at the hangar)so a trip to the airport was made to retrieve them. Once they were safely home I went to install the camshaft thrust plate only to discover that it was nowhere to be found. Well holy crap Batman. Now what? I had just seen that part along with all of its hardware, so I knew I hadn't lost it, but where was it? Would you believe it was sitting on top of my toolbox back at the hangar? If you said yes, you are correct. So two days later, meaning this morning, another trip was made to the hangar to retrieve it. Ridiculous I know, but at this point I think I finally have everything I need to resume reassembly. However, based on past performance you may wish to take that with a grain of salt. Now I have a balancer question for anyone that cares to answer. My balancer seems to be made up of two main parts, a heavy inner disc assembly and a heavy outer ring with a timing mark. Sandwiched in between them is a thick rubber spacer that's a bit deteriorated with cracks and missing chunks. My thought was to bead blast the part clean and refinish it for installation later on. My question is, does anything else need to be done to it to make it usable? Is the rubber spacer OK the way it is, and are there any other issues with these things that I need to be looking out for?
The engine is nearly complete. Can anyone tell me if the bolts for the timing cover and water pump should have washers under the heads? These parts were taken off the engine so long ago that I can't remember.
Yep they should have washers under the heads. Not a normal washer. Outside diameter is smaller. Did you get a new balancer or have that one reconditioned? There is a place that reconditions them. Almost the cost of a new one. As also I recommend getting a starter motor off a ram pickup, ram van, or dakota with a magnum V8 or V6 it's a mini Denso hi torque. It's small, weighs only about 8 lbs and has more power than your stock starter. I get em used from the junkyard for about $20. It's a direct bolt on.
Thanks for the washer info. It’s been 35 years since I took those bolts off so I had no clue. As for the balancer, in post 45 from May 15th I had asked if there was anything I needed to do to the balancer or if there was anything I should know about them before cleaning it up and reusing it and all I got was crickets, so I bead blasted it, refinished it, and had a sleeve pressed on to the sealing surface. Otherwise nothing’s been done to it. So based on your comment I’m guessing there was something else that needed doing?
The rubber gets old and the outer ring can slip throwing the balance off. Pioneer and Dayco makes brand new ones you can get from rockauto, or there is a reconditioning service that can redo yours. Not sure who the service is. Your post about it did not pop up on my notifications back then or I would have responded then. Check out the denso mini starters off magnum equipped Van's and pickups. The last dodge to have the old skool magnum V6 and V8 was the 2002 B series ram van.
Rock auto 1974 360 Dayco brand $83. Same PN# for 1975