My ampmeter is pegging

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pha pha

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Hi All,

I have a question. Last week my 66 /6 strated giving me some headaches.
It would stall out a and skip when idling in drive. And in park, not as much. I was noticing that my ampmeter was excessivly charging when I was cruising along. So I replaced the wires, plugs and rotor. Did comprsession test. After I did the parts replacement, the next day,I was on my way to the Endicott Auto show in MA. and it was running great. then and I was taking the turn into the show the meter started pegging again and it start skipping and it wanted to stall in drive.
My question is. Could the voltage regulator cause this symton?
 
The excessive charging by itself would be an indication of a possible bad voltage regulator. With the rough running thrown in at the same time it makes me suspicous of a short that is grounding out somewhere, especially since it is intermitent and both happen at the same time. It will be interesting to see what Redfish or one of the gurus have to say.
 
First place I would look is the ammeter itself. Mine had similar symptoms years ago and I had to bypass the ammeter. That ammeter is just a fire waiting to happen, so be careful.
 
Yep I'd start with tracing the wiring harness where it runs along the valve cover for a bare spot from either the coil wire the field wire or the main alternator feed.then the ammeter.the voltage regulator will be the last thing I'd check.
 
Thank you guys.
I have been reading your posts for a year now and as usual, you came through with great tips. I will trace the wire as soon as i get home from work.
 
Whenever I had that happen it was always the Voltage Regulator.
Still a good idea to check all the Ballast Resistor and connected wiring too
 
As you can see by my profile photo, we are giving it serious thought.
For Duty and humanity.
 
Also when ground out happens usually blows voltage reg, then overcharges blowing the ballast resistor, and then could possibly blow alternator. I'm sure one of the gurus will help!
Now would be a good time to replace voltage regulator and ballast resistor, while there ordering parts have the alt & batt checked! If any of old parts are good save them for emergency spares.
Good Luck!
 
I'm thinking that your battery positive terminal is touching the body when you make a turn.
 
When I was checking the wiring, I noticed that the power booster check valve was cracked. When I touched it it came apart.

Thank all for your help.
 
Hi Guys,

I am having traouble finding a check valve for my Valiant. Does anyone know if power brakes were an option for the valiant signet in 1966? I am thinking someone might have installed a power booster and dual master cylinder and somepoint. I am looking for a 13/16 check valve and all I can find in a 1/2 inch valve.
Any clues?
 
Hi Guys,

I am having traouble finding a check valve for my Valiant. Does anyone know if power brakes were an option for the valiant signet in 1966? I am thinking someone might have installed a power booster and dual master cylinder and somepoint. I am looking for a 13/16 check valve and all I can find in a 1/2 inch valve.
Any clues?

Power brakes were an option in 66. If you have a dual M/C, it's already been upgrades as a 66 had a single M/C. I'll take a look at my spare check valves and see what I've got.
 
I don't know what that has to do with the charging circuit.
My 69 pegged the meter and blew out my pertronics ignition, the stereo and the fuseable link. Take it to Advance Auto and they will check the charging circuit. Number match the regulator to the alternator to make sure they are compatable to work together and operating correctly. I replaced by fuseable link with a 50 amp slo-blow fuse and always carry an extra one in the glove box. I have never needed to replace the fuse but it's a good insurance policy so you don't get stranded on the road.
Don't quit till you find the problem, these cars are prone to electrical fires. In the tech pages on this site or BBD are the plans to convert from an amp meter to a voltage meter which is much safer.

Good luck, Jim
 
I have replaced the Check valve, the Voltage regulator, plugs, wires, and a rotor. But it still happening. After driving it for 15 or more minutes, when in low idle in drive or reverse, the car want to stall out, then when I put it in park, it will have a skip in the motor. Then if I let sit for a few minutes and start it up again, its fine, till I drive for a little while, it will happen again. Its killing me.
 
Is the amp meter flickering (bouncing)? If so you have a bad diode in the alternator.
 
No, the ampmeter is not pegging. I put in the Voltage regulator and the meter is much steadier now, while cruising. After 15 minutes of driving, it starts skipping. In drive at a stop sign, I have to throw in neutrel or put a foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it from stalling.
 
Update, this weekend a I had a friend with an ignition tester verify that the coil was weak. Replaced the coil. All is well. The minute we put a new coil in, the baby started on the first turn ofthe key. Its been hard starting since I bought it. Now it runs better, cleaner and has lot more power.
 
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