My attempt at speedmaster heads and moving the pushrod.

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Will you use offset intake lifters to help correct pushrod side angle? Also 1.6 rockers move the pushrod closer to the rocker shaft and help with the inverted angle. We did both and helped straightened the push rod angle LA SBM's suffer with. With the 1.5's we needed to make valve cover flanges with reliefs for reverse flange covers and weld them on. The 1.6's gave much more room.

The W-2 covers had the notches already cut in but the height did not clear the rockers we used. with the 1.6 rockers we won't have to glue and notch the gaskets for the taller covers

Nice work I like the way you are moving the hole with a pressed slug and I like the intake work. Should be a monster when its done. Engines are compressors, The more you get in there the more you can compress then Big tubes to get it out . FLOW,

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OldMan, where did you get those valve covers ? sorry, Not trying to highjack this awesome thread.
 
Will you use offset intake lifters to help correct pushrod side angle? Also 1.6 rockers move the pushrod closer to the rocker shaft and help with the inverted angle. We did both and helped straightened the push rod angle LA SBM's suffer with. With the 1.5's we needed to make valve cover flanges with reliefs for reverse flange covers and weld them on. The 1.6's gave much more room.

The W-2 covers had the notches already cut in but the height did not clear the rockers we used. with the 1.6 rockers we won't have to glue and notch the gaskets for the taller covers

Nice work I like the way you are moving the hole with a pressed slug and I like the intake work. Should be a monster when its done. Engines are compressors, The more you get in there the more you can compress then Big tubes to get it out . FLOW,

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As of right now, no offset lifters. just going to live with what i get as far as pushrod angle. I will be running 1.6 rockers though.
 
Will you use offset intake lifters to help correct pushrod side angle? Also 1.6 rockers move the pushrod closer to the rocker shaft and help with the inverted angle. We did both and helped straightened the push rod angle LA SBM's suffer with. With the 1.5's we needed to make valve cover flanges with reliefs for reverse flange covers and weld them on. The 1.6's gave much more room.

The W-2 covers had the notches already cut in but the height did not clear the rockers we used. with the 1.6 rockers we won't have to glue and notch the gaskets for the taller covers

Nice work I like the way you are moving the hole with a pressed slug and I like the intake work. Should be a monster when its done. Engines are compressors, The more you get in there the more you can compress then Big tubes to get it out . FLOW,

View attachment 1716061138

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Somebody needs to make a set of valve covers like that, I'd buy em yesterday!
 
Sheet metal covers can be found in that style but otherwise…..
Nope!
 
After finding out my old iron heads couldn't be saved I figured it was time to dig out the SM castings I bought a few years ago. And of course I can never just take the easy route. ( whats the fun in that. Lol)

So after studying all of Pbr's porting threads and then some, I decided it was time to get grinding.

Here's where I'm at thus far, please give any and all tips, pointers, advice you can.

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Nice, very nice.
 
I was hopeful with your screen name that this would get a turbo. :thumbsup:
 
Will you use offset intake lifters to help correct pushrod side angle? Also 1.6 rockers move the pushrod closer to the rocker shaft and help with the inverted angle. We did both and helped straightened the push rod angle LA SBM's suffer with. With the 1.5's we needed to make valve cover flanges with reliefs for reverse flange covers and weld them on. The 1.6's gave much more room.

The W-2 covers had the notches already cut in but the height did not clear the rockers we used. with the 1.6 rockers we won't have to glue and notch the gaskets for the taller covers

Nice work I like the way you are moving the hole with a pressed slug and I like the intake work. Should be a monster when its done. Engines are compressors, The more you get in there the more you can compress then Big tubes to get it out . FLOW,

View attachment 1716061138

View attachment 1716061140

View attachment 1716061143
I just LOVE it!
 
No big updates today, just going along and repeating the ports across the head. A little thing I found to help keep the shapes the same from port to port was a piece of welding wire bent to the profile and use it as a checking gauge. This was very handy in the area where the pinch was removed and heading to the valve as there was a lot of material to remove.

Also put the mcguiver skills to work to help move things along faster. I kept having to stop porting to blow the chips out of the port to see what I was doing, so I attached the end of my shop vac to my magnetic base flashlight. Now as I'm grinding, the chips magically disappear. Lol.

As far as the valve cover bolt boss is concerned, is the general consensus to grind what you need to and just put sealant on those bolts?

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Do you put any type of sealant on the bar stock that you press into the pushrod holes?
 
Do you put any type of sealant on the bar stock that you press into the pushrod holes?
I did not, that way if I had to do any welding in the port I wouldn't have to fight with cleaning it out 1st. Once I have the new push rod holes drilled I'm going to weld both ends of the plugs shut so there will be no chance of a leak. But from what I've seen thus far I'd be willing to bet the press fit would be enough to not let it leak.
 
I did not, that way if I had to do any welding in the port I wouldn't have to fight with cleaning it out 1st. Once I have the new push rod holes drilled I'm going to weld both ends of the plugs shut so there will be no chance of a leak. But from what I've seen thus far I'd be willing to bet the press fit would be enough to not let it leak.
Hopefully neither vacuum OR oil.
 
I noticed you also tubed the head bolt holes, did you break through the casting to the tube anywhere when removing that protrusion into the port? I couldn't get an accurate guage on how thick this area was on mine so I just smoothed it out a little with a cartridge roll.
 
I noticed you also tubed the head bolt holes, did you break through the casting to the tube anywhere when removing that protrusion into the port? I couldn't get an accurate guage on how thick this area was on mine so I just smoothed it out a little with a cartridge roll.

You only have to tube the head bolt hole that has the oil hole to feed the rockers.

The other one you just take it out until it breaks through and leave it.
 
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