My Blown 340

-
fstfish66 said:
thanks,,yes i run it on 93 pump gas,, when i put it back together i think im going to slow the blower down a little i may try 11% under like you,,
you say your making 9 pounds at 11 under,,,thats perfect for pump gas,that way i can put a little more advance in to it,,,

hampton blower are the only ones making a smal block mopar blower intake that i know of,,which is available thru big als toy box,, my intake was built by gary dyer of dyers blower in alsip ill,,,i believe dyers doent make any oarts except drive pulleys,and repair or rebuild,,he is into cnc connecting rods for the roundy round guys now,,,

ALL tho dyers is the originator of the street super charger industry,,,
Click to expand...

If I remember,when I was contemplating supercharging this motor,I think I called or wrote pretty much every blower company at the time. Does yours look like this....a welded blower plate on top of a cut down intake manifold?

The sharpie mark is the crack that I have to weld up
And with regards to timing ,on the BDS website under FAQ's they say blower motors like alot of timing?..Something I will check when I get mine running again.

...gopeds...crash at shop 002 (Medium).jpg
 
Oh and I ordered a rear end narrowing jig and housing ends from Rick Jones Racecars,now I need to find another 8 3/4 housing that way I don't have to cut my ends off and reweld them back on.

I am also waiting on a quote thru my work for Wilwood disc brake kits, front and rear and updating the wheels to new Weld Wheels.:shock:
 
my intake is similar to that,,same idea,,old offy intake with a plate on top,,,the plate is shaped perfect to the blower base,one square 4inchx4inch hole in the center,,i believe yours is a hampton built intake,,they open up the top of the intake a litle more then the dyers intake i have,.my intake has gussets welded from the bottom of the plate to different places on the intake for support,, how did your crack ?? back fire?? or no support ???
i believe the hamptons that ive seen do not have the same style pop off or back fire valve that my intake has,, when i start on my car the intake is going to be powder coated aluminum chrome,,.
 
fstfish66 said:
my intake is similar to that,,same idea,,old offy intake with a plate on top,,,the plate is shaped perfect to the blower base,one square 4inchx4inch hole in the center,,i believe yours is a hampton built intake,,they open up the top of the intake a litle more then the dyers intake i have,.my intake has gussets welded from the bottom of the plate to different places on the intake for support,, how did your crack ?? back fire?? or no support ???
i believe the hamptons that ive seen do not have the same style pop off or back fire valve that my intake has,, when i start on my car the intake is going to be powder coated aluminum chrome,,.
Click to expand...

I think I was running the belt too tight...it also involved a drunken burnout contest(which I won but flatened a M/T S/S tire) Yes that is a Hampton manifold..the only thing is if I weld on it will it warp the blower mounting surface? You know if I go and start weld supports to it. I might call Don and ask him if I should send it back and have them fix it.
 
do you have no suports from the plate to the top area of the intake???
ide call and see what they say about support and repairing that intake,,
lots of guys run the belt to tight they like the wine from the belt,,but to tight can also break the front of the crank shaft off,, unless you are a good aluminum welder,,or know of one,,,
 
fstfish66 said:
do you have no suports from the plate to the top area of the intake???
ide call and see what they say about support and repairing that intake,,
lots of guys run the belt to tight they like the wine from the belt,,but to tight can also break the front of the crank shaft off,, unless you are a good aluminum welder,,or know of one,,,
Click to expand...

No there are no supports,just this adapter welded to the cut down manifold

In his video he is calling for 1/2 slack to each side of neutral for the belt...I don't recall how tight or loose I was running the belt at that time.
 
you know... it woul be cool if that motor stuck out of your hood 1 inch more....

LOL

drool drool drool..


nice, very nice thanks for sharing it with us.

-RPM
 
RPM said:
you know... it woul be cool if that motor stuck out of your hood 1 inch more....

LOL

drool drool drool..


nice, very nice thanks for sharing it with us.

-RPM
Click to expand...

Thank you.....the deal with lowering it has to do with vision....the way it is now there is only a small section of my view that is obstructed.

Now back in Sac for a week,I'll see how much I can get done.

The manifold I am sending back to Hampton for repair..while I do have a Tig welder I don't have enough experience or time to mess around trying to fix it,so I should have it back by the next time I'll be home which is Christmas

This is a pic of the mini tubs I made..They basically are flush with the frame on the inside..I need to work on trunk hinges and making the back seat fit. Upholstery came with the car lol not my choice,will be changed later.

Next up is the trunk..I'm going to put the battery in a enclosure and mount the cutoff switch and starter relay to the box.I want to make a mount for the fuel cell and move the fuel pump and filter inside,maybe down in the spare tire hole. Pump mounting location that will be changed.

The fuel cell was a last minute change because the original tank had a leak in it. When I moved to Georgia for a bit I had to make sure It didn't leak because all my stuff went in a moving truck.

These 2 are the where the tires and wheels end up as it sits. Since I am getting a different housing and narrowing it my self I may try to move them in just a tad bit more.

More to come

Duster Before 016 (Medium).jpg


Duster Before 020 (Medium).jpg


Duster Before 017 (Medium).jpg


Duster Before 019 (Medium).jpg


Duster Before 006 (Medium).jpg


Duster Before 001 (Medium).jpg


Duster Before 003 (Medium).jpg
 
Nice ride!

Your exhaust turn downs looks alot like my TTI system (alittle uneven too).
 
Well I got a little done the last time I was home,hope to do allot more when I'm home for Christmas.

I got the intake sent off to Hampton's to fix the crack,I got my rear end narrowing jig in,but it did not include the inner locater's so I had to order those.

Member DusterDoug was kind enough to deliver a 8 3/4 housing and brace that I bought off him and we bs'd for quite a while...that was cool...so with the other housing I found local I now have a spare in case I screw one up :D

I got the engine,with the stock style pan on it,back in the car. While bolting up the flex plate I had forgot that I marked on the converter and plate where the bolts would line up. So an hour later I finally get them to line up and notice the dimples I made on the flex plate....hmmm I clean the converter off a lil and guess what...it's got the same dimples dohhh....getting old sucks as my eye site is changing and I need to wear specs to see up close.

Ohh got the oil pump primed and got oil up to the top end,so all it's lacking really is the manifold. I am going to take the carbs apart and clean them up and see what jets I have in them. I put the sensor in the header for the innovate air/fuel ratio gauge setup that I am going to install to help me tune it when i get it going again.

I will be at the PRI show here in Florida next week,I'm going to do some research on a Wilwood disc brake setup on all 4 corners with a park brake in there also. I may also get new Weld Wheels for it,I will check on those,I'm thinking both those company's should be here for the show. I know Borla exhaust will be,I need an exhaust upgrade to. Here's where I'm at on the motor,with a pic of the housings and brace.

DSC00292 (Medium).JPG


DSC00291 (Custom).JPG


DSC00290 (Medium).JPG
 
looks good man,,same fan blade i use,, but i stil have a factory style radiator...that is one of the first things im changing when i start to redo,,,soon i hope,,whos rad is that ???and what kind of temps do you run??

i have a 4 row brass rad,, same fan,,high flow 160 thermostat,, and it cruises down the high way at 172 degrees,,,it might get as high as 200 in bumper to bumper trafic on a hot day,,,i just had a water pump build by evans cooling and powder coated,, ,,
QUESTION,,im intrested in knowing why you have your starter relay back at the battery ?? i am going to rewire the entire car with a ron francis kit,,
and looking for any tricks some one may be using,,thanks,,
 
Originally I had a Griffin radiator with 2 electric fans in front and no engine fan. It was fine at speed but when you got in traffic it would overheat. I had the bolt come out of the bottom pulley and go thru that radiator:eek:ops:. I had a local guy make this one. I think someone on here has an aluminum one for sale...anywho with this fan and the 2 electrics it never gets over 195,even if it's 100 degrees out.

http://www.madelectrical.com/ This is the company I used when I was changing around the wiring on my car. By putting the solenoid in the back it makes the long cable from the starter to the battery only HOT when you go to start the car. I also have the (I'm sorry for this) GM style alt on it. The blue wire is a fusible link. I also have the plastic connector in the engine compartment that I use as a power supply block next to the original starter relay that I think powers things like the MSD ect. I see by skimming his catalog he has a new 1 wire alt setup and less wires going to the relay in the back. I also got rid of the hot wire going to the original amp gauge on the dash as he said this could be a source of a nasty electrical fire.

I have not checked into a Ron Francis kit but from what I hear he has really nice stuff.
 
thanks ill look in to this site ,,,rom francis has great stuff,,but its not cheap,and i havent seen any thing like the relay moved to the back from him,,i also seen another car on this site that has the same deal as you,,

i once had a be cool alunimum rad,in the car but couldnt get a engine fan only a electric fan between a 3 inch blower belt and rad,,so i went back to the factory style rad,, now i found a guy that builds alunimum rads for mopars,, and he has one that fits the early A and looks great as well and is a down flow not a cross flow,,
 
BLOWN340

your car is looking really nice - I have mine torn apart right now also.

ps: If you're thinking about wheels - I am going to replace all the wheels on my car soon.

120207-2.jpg


d3.jpg
 
im hoping to go to a more vintage looking wheel and take off the prostars,,
i need 15x15 with zero off set
 
i once had a be cool alunimum rad,in the car but couldnt get a engine fan only a electric fan between a 3 inch blower belt and rad,,so i went back to the factory style rad,, now i found a guy that builds alunimum rads for mopars,, and he has one that fits the early A and looks great as well and is a down flow not a cross flow,,[/QUOTE]
:thumbup:Great looking cars from both of you guys!
Hey, FstFish - can you supply some contact information for your source of downflow aluminum radiators for Mopars? Thanks!!
 
Ya both cars are way cool........fstfish,I bet you have fun rowin' gears in that thing
 
i have to say all of your guys blown small blocks are awesome early a's arent my first choice but fstfish yours looks bad *** i want to see the brand x guys faces when you pull up next to them at a stoplight Justin
 
fstfish66 said:
im hoping to go to a more vintage looking wheel and take off the prostars,,
i need 15x15 with zero off set
Click to expand...

me too.

I'm looking to replace the welds with classic cragars - only problem is that the narrowest cragar is 6" and that would mess up the look on the front of my car. I like the skinny tires.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top