younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
My understanding is that if the car heats up on freeway then its not enough radiator. If it heats up in traffic its not enough fan.
My Cooling Improvement Project (hopefully)
- Thread starter "Dart67"
- Start date
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My understanding is that if the car heats up on freeway then its not enough radiator. If it heats up in traffic its not enough fan.
1968dartman
life is getting better!!
did you have to modify the air dam to get it to fit? I really like the look of it on your car!
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
Just a slight bit.
Once the dam is mounted to the bumper brackets, the "flange area of it has to be notched or sliced in several places and then heated with a heat gun and bent and pushed to conform with the bumper. Once the dam is "formed" to the underside of the bumper it can be trimmed and cut to suit on the ends.
If you need more info send me a PM and I will get you my phone number.
Herb
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
I have driven the car a few times now on 85* to 95* days.
While driving the temp holds between 175* and 185*.
When stopped at traffic lights, I have not seen it go over 190* and it will the drop back down when I moving again.
The highest I have seen it so far is 210* after driving for about 15 miles and stopping for fuel and sitting for about 5 minutes. As soon as I started the car and drove about a mile and a half, it dropped to 175*.
Herb
While driving the temp holds between 175* and 185*.
When stopped at traffic lights, I have not seen it go over 190* and it will the drop back down when I moving again.
The highest I have seen it so far is 210* after driving for about 15 miles and stopping for fuel and sitting for about 5 minutes. As soon as I started the car and drove about a mile and a half, it dropped to 175*.
Herb
Purple Haze
Well-Known Member
So what is the final setup, and is that with the carb or FI.
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
Wow. Awful lot of work to make a car run cool with WRONG thermostat.
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
Here is the link to pretty much the final setup and results.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106
The last drive I made with the car was on a 98* day.
It was a 40 mile round trip of mixed highway and stop and go.
The highest temp shown on the ECU log was 205 at a stop light.
As soon as the car started moving again the temp dropped back to the high 180"s to low 190's.
Herb
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
I don't know what you mean by the WRONG thermostat.
The cooling issues were a combination of problems. All of which were addressed in this post.
Herb
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
Are you still running a 160 thermostat?
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
Did you read Part 2 ? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106
I had a 180* in the engine all along.
Herb
Purple Haze
Well-Known Member
Say think you can provide the PN's for the radiator, pulleys and fans, what cfm are the fans?
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
On thing that I found is that if you do not have a hood to cowl seal that the hot under the hot air comes out from under the hood and then is sucked back trough the radiator heating it up again and the it comes back out from under the hood and is sucked back through again etc. I have a fiberglass hood on my car with a six pack scoop so my seal wasn't there. I tried a lot of things to cool my car, all of which helped but I discovered that when I had my hood off the car ran much cooler. I discovered this after my second radiator change. My car was running in the driveway with the hood off and it was sitting at 190 degrees for 15 minutes. I put the hood on so that I could take it for a test drive. I went upstairs to wash my hands and when I came down I found the temperature had risen to 210 degrees. I was totally confused when a buddy of mine put his hand under the front lip of the hood and he noticed the hot air coming out from under the lip. We used cardboard and duct tape as a diagnostic to block the air and saw some improvement. I went to Home Depot and bought foam rubber (used for window air conditioner installation) and Gorilla Glue and I glued it onto the underside of my fiberglass hood. This made a big improvement, guess that's why the factory put a rubber seal there LOL Typically my car runs 195 to 200 in traffic as opposed to 230. Give it a try it can't hurt
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
See item 5 in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970025237&postcount=9
I think the hood seal was one of the biggest improvements in reducing the coolant temp.
With it in place the under hood heat is not drawn over the top of the core support back into and thru the radiator
Herb
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
Purple Haze
Well-Known Member
[quote="Dart67";1970285553]I am working on getting the numbers for you.
Herb[/quote]
Great, thanks a bunch Herb.
Herb[/quote]
Great, thanks a bunch Herb.
famous bob
mopar misfit
you guys have all missed another heating point. the air can ciculate from under the car to the front of the radiator at hi way speeds . that`s why most all new cars have some sort of rubber or plastic dam infront -below the radiator -or in that area, or closed off w/ pastic as was stated above
ops:
famous bob
mopar misfit
also, I went thru the 160 vrsus 180 thing, the 180 cooled better than the 160 !!??-bob:wack:you guys have all missed another heating point. the air can ciculate from under the car to the front of the radiator at hi way speeds . that`s why most all new cars have some sort of rubber or plastic dam infront -below the radiator -or in that area, or closed off w/ pastic as was stated above
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
Here is what I have for now.
I will have to pull the crank and water pump pulleys to find the part numbers.
I called March with the measurements of the pulleys on my engine and their measurement did not match mine. Do not know why..
Link to Wizard Cooling: www.wizardcooling.com
Radiator part # 1640-200
66-69 Roadrunner, Belvedere, GTX, Satellite, Charger, Coronet, R/T (M/T) b-Body 1.25" Tube Upgrade
Link to spal fans:https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/...ance/30102052/2va06-ap70-ll-37a-11-p-12v.aspx
Link to spal fans pdf: [ame]https://webstore.spalusa.com/content/files/content/PDF/30102052_SPEC.pdf[/ame]
Herb
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Cudavert,
I just got a set of Jeep hood louvers which solve a sheet metal problem and will help with heat management. Thanks for the idea. I think they will look nasty.
Andrew
I just got a set of Jeep hood louvers which solve a sheet metal problem and will help with heat management. Thanks for the idea. I think they will look nasty.
Andrew
Purple Haze
Well-Known Member
Dart67";1970286044]Here is what I have for now. I will have to pull the crank and water pump pulleys to find the part numbers. I called March with the measurements of the pulleys on my engine and their measurement did not match mine. Do not know why.. Link to Wizard Cooling: [URL="http://www.wizardcooling.com said:
Can you just give me the measurements of both pulleys, no need to remove them.
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
The pulley sizes are listed in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106
Herb
"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
I have had a couple of PM's wanting to know where I got the upper and lower radiator hoses and the part numbers.
Here is that info for anyone that may want/need it.
I bought the hoses at O'reilly's.
They are made by GATES.
The UPPER is 20875.
The LOWER is 20558.
The upper MAY need trimming or shorten to fit correctly.
Herb
Here is that info for anyone that may want/need it.
I bought the hoses at O'reilly's.
They are made by GATES.
The UPPER is 20875.
The LOWER is 20558.
The upper MAY need trimming or shorten to fit correctly.
Herb
Purple Haze
Well-Known Member
One more question, do you know the depth or thickness of the radiator and fans with the shroud?
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