Ok just so i understand the carter two barrel was standard equiptment on two barrel /6's and should be fine with the 264s from comp, correct?
Correct on both counts, not sure where the other guy in this thread is getting his claim that you have to change springs and do other fiddle-futzing around, but my guess is that he started with a BBD in poor condition or otherwise poorly chosen. Perhaps it was a "remanufactured" piece of junk. His claim that the car won't run right is not correct; if you start with a carb in good shape you don't have to twaddle any turnips or change any springs. And you don't need to mess with an old carburetor, either, if you don't want to. If you look around, you can find a new Carter BBD, or Stromberg WW3, or Holley 2280. The BBD was factory-installed on 2bbl slant-6s, and all three of these carb models were factory installed on 273 and 318 V8s in various years. Do not use a lean-burn carburetor, nor a carburetor equipped for feedback mixture control in conjunction with an oxygen sensor (the latter started in the early '80s on some models).
If you do go shopping for new BBDs, beware the Chinese copycats being sold all over eBay. I don't know about you, but I surely don't want a Chinese piece of no-name junk holding gasoline on top of my engine! :shock: These are sold with vague applications covering an improbable year range ("66-79", etc.) and are often described as "low top" or "high top". Avoid.
The easiest unit to install is the one meant for a slant-6. There are calibration differences, but they are inconsequential to driveability and performance; a 273/318 carb works just as well in most cases. The physical difference you have to watch out for is the choke lever. It's spaced further away from the carb body on the slant-6 carbs, so the slant-6 2bbl choke thermostat pushrod won't hook right up to the V8 carb. It can be made to work with some creativity (and on the '77-up BBDs, the choke lever is screwed to the end of the choke shaft rather than staked on, so if necessary you can swap on a \6 choke lever). The only calibration-related thing you have to watch out for is that some of the V8 carbs had a hole in each throttle plate. They were designed such that the throttle plates close completely at curb idle, and the holes serve as the idle calibration. In some cases you won't be able to adjust the curb idle low enough with one of these carbs with holes in the throttle plates.
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted
here for free download. If you read all the BBD material, you'll see Chrysler was very adamant about not swapping slant-6 and V8 BBDs. That's because doing so would cause the car equipped with the non-spec carb to flunk Federal emission certification tests, which would subject Chrysler to legal liabilities and stiff fines. I've had stock and kinda-stockish slant-6s run great with a 273/318 BBD, WW3, or 2280. As with any carburetor, you have to install and tune it correctly for best results.
If you're into fabrication and want to use something other than what Chrysler originally used, you can try your luck with a Holley 2300 or—probably better—a Motorcraft 2100; see
here and
here and
here.
now were did i get the fancy chrome v/c took a whole to find the receipt, it was on ebay from KMJ performance for 21 cdn
Eeeeyeah...you may eventually decide to take it off and put on a real valve cover. See
Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3. If you are bound and determined to run this cover on your engine, and if you can make the bolt holes line up well enough to minimize leaks, then set up the breather and PCV
this way to avoid oil consumption and fouled spark plugs due to this cover's lack of baffles.
Dan you sure are a dead ringer for my high school auto shop teacher from Edmonton ...
That's a scary thought! :shock:
s & unic:happy10:rns??
