my first carb rebuild, done, but adjustment question

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The Daytona kit has a new/improved-design inlet valve instead of an original type needle and seat. You should definitely install the Daytona valve in its entirety, and no, you can't assume the float adjustment is correct and doesn't need checking and adjusting.
 
you mean different isn't bad? :) I wasn't sure about that thing, it looked quite a bit different.
I'll install that and do the float when I can manage the time, gona have to go looking at a hardware store for some kinda of spring replacement too.

thanks for the continued service Dan, hope you got your report done. I saw my first /6 today in an old beat to heck D100 took photos of the truck
 
I would suggest upgrading to a nice 4 barrel carb.

you can get them pretty cheap now and you can find them even cheaper used.

and you would notice and increase in power and depending on the carb you might not even notice a difference in MPG unless you keep the 4 barrels singing often lol.

you can either get a 2to4 adapter plate for your intake or you could upgrade your intake while you are at it.

a nice used carb and intake could probably be picked up here on fabo from $200-$300 easy enough.

anyhow....being the case your looking to strictly make your carb work for you.....then I would say you need to find a few essential missing parts and you should pull it back apart and properly set the afjustments on everything.

when I rebuilt my eddy 600cfm carb it was a "working carb" but I still went through and set all the adjustments as I should and changed anything that looked questionable.

the floats were WAY out of adjustment, one hung a 1/4" lower than it should and one hung 1/8" higher than it should.

I changed out all springs,plunger, put in 4 new jets,all new gaskets,everything was thoroughly cleaned and polished,everything was adjusted in properly .

and she works GREAT.

given I know a thing or 2 mechanically........But building a carb can be done by someone with little experience.....just make sure you follow the instructions step by step and listen to what everyone has to tell you so that you do not have to do the job more times than is necessary.

good luck!
 
DusterDude72 said:
I would suggest upgrading to a nice 4 barrel carb.

you can get them pretty cheap now and you can find them even cheaper used.

you can either get a 2to4 adapter plate for your intake or you could upgrade your intake while you are at it.

a nice used carb and intake could probably be picked up here on fabo from $200-$300 easy enough.

anyhow....being the case your looking to strictly make your carb work for you.....then I would say you need to find a few essential missing parts and you should pull it back apart and properly set the afjustments on everything.

good luck!
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Thanks Jerrod

I'll contemplate an upgrade some more and toy with what I got some more too :)
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
gona have to go looking at a hardware store for some kinda of spring replacement too.
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Er…no, read up the thread again. A "kinda looks almost right" spring from a hardware store will not work. You need the correct spring or the carburetor won't work right.

Go through the Walker catalogue for Carter 2bbl carb parts and you'll find the idle needle and possibly the step-up piston spring (though the latter is a long shot). Yours is a "BBD 1¼" solid-fuel divorced choke" model.

hope you got your report done
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Yep, after 2AM.
 
well i tore it apart enough to check float. both floats were at the same height, but I could not make sure that they were at the right level.
Here i wana ***** about how the service manual for the carb does not specify the height required but instead says "set according to Service Manual specifications". how$(*#*@ dumb is tthat!

no pump assy spring in the walker cat but they do have the idle screw, dont really need the screw. The missing spring seems to still be causing a lean zero to full throtle problem, as you might expect it to. but seems to work great beside that

time to watch that video again and start thinking more about another carb.

good news is I did get rid of my vacuum leak from before the rebuild

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after watching that video again and noticing that after my second rebuild the stumble seems to be less severe and thinking about things. I dont think that spring is the cause of my problem. I really think its a pump adjustment issue, I'll dig back in there this weekend and readjust the pump to make it richer.

The way this carb works, the pump spring doesnt seem vital (yeah that sounds stupid and is probably wrong). As slant6/4speed pointed out the metering rods are raised by a tab and not the spring. I think its different then how you might expect a metering rod to be moved. I'm basing this on the video and what I see in the carb. I'll just have to play with the setting until it seems right since the darn service manual has a self reference loop. I'll also read more of the service manual, now I NEED to know what function that spring has.

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ok i was wrong, just adjusted the pump to run as rich as possible but still dieing on the mash. darn thing didnt do this before the rebuild.
 
Did not check the float LOL. I would put a vacuum gauge on the motor to make sure you don't have a bad intake valve though.
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
I dont think that spring is the cause of my problem.
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It's definitely a contributing factor.

The way this carb works, the pump spring doesnt seem vital (yeah that sounds stupid and is probably wrong)
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It's definitely wrong. If the spring weren't vital, it wouldn't've been there originally. You do need it, and it does need to be the right one.
 
weirdest thing,
I'll try and spare you the details but... my temp gauge started reading again, and I noticed it was quite cool. so I adjusted the idle mixture screws to lean her up more and more and more, really making sure she was not happy before I pulled one turn back out.

AND... I can mash the pedal again. works just as it did before. So it appears that it was not a lean problem but a flooding problem. :dontknow:

and this just after I spent a bit of money picking up pieces to convert to a 4 brl. at least now I dont feel any rush to go 4 brl. and can study the situation more (i will be looking for another 2 brl bbd for parts) :scratch:


Well the above statements held true for one night of driving. When I went to test the next day she went back to stumbling.... I'm gona look for another post 76 2 brl carter bbd for parts. Still waiting for my four to arrive and I have to rebuild it.
 
I've been following your thread for awhile as I also did my first carb rebuild on my 74 Carter BBD last fall. The adjustments were all off; float setting, meter rods, choke plate etc. about the only good thing was that my pump spring seems fine. The rebuild kit I used didn't supply one, and i got 10 years of farm dirt out it. But after the rebuild I also got "the stumble" during acceleration, especially when its cold out.

The reason I bring this up is that my friends car, 74 dart custom with a /6 1barrel had a stumble also, but after replacing the gas tank and associated vacuum lines last summer it runs perfectly, warm or cold weather and when you open the gas tank you can hear that hiss of pressure equalizing.

This leads me to think that you "may" want to check for air leaks in the fuel lines while your poking around. It certainly can't hurt. How this ties in with the fuel pump and fuel delivery under load is still something I am learning being a newbie myself.

Hope it helps some.
 
R3vSteve said:
I've been following your thread for awhile as I also did my first carb rebuild on my 74 Carter BBD last fall. The adjustments were all off; float setting, meter rods, choke plate etc. about the only good thing was that my pump spring seems fine. The rebuild kit I used didn't supply one, and i got 10 years of farm dirt out it. But after the rebuild I also got "the stumble" during acceleration, especially when its cold out.

The reason I bring this up is that my friends car, 74 dart custom with a /6 1barrel had a stumble also, but after replacing the gas tank and associated vacuum lines last summer it runs perfectly, warm or cold weather and when you open the gas tank you can hear that hiss of pressure equalizing.

This leads me to think that you "may" want to check for air leaks in the fuel lines while your poking around. It certainly can't hurt. How this ties in with the fuel pump and fuel delivery under load is still something I am learning being a newbie myself.

Hope it helps some.
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Thanks I'll keep that in mind,

btw its not my pump asm spring, its my vacuum piston spring thats missing. I ordered a new pump asm spring from Walker only to find its not the spring I needed. I then ordered all the other springs they had for my carb and hope one of those two are the vacuum piston spring, they didnt indicate this well on their website. That spring should come this week. I'm currently building it again... weeee.... :)

gona get this carb in, check some compression, see if I really killed a piston ring by perhaps flipping the 5 and 7 ignition wires. Then I may start crying or just proceed to install my mopar proformance ignition, then I'll get my new intake and 4 brl carb on.

hope a ring job is not required to be included in that sequence....
 
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