my Low dollar 318 hop-up project

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rumblefish360 said:
All was someone shitting on a posters thread trying to do a good thing. And then trashing his idea or use of a cheap part to stay within budget. Always a argued to say *** is better than your choice.

Good Lord, STFU!



Spreadbore carbs are;

TQ
Quadrajet
Holley has a couple as well.

The slight offset between the primary and secondary of the above mentioned Edelbrock carb as well as others do not make them a spreadbore carb. Split hairs if you want to.
I make this mention as not to argue but point out traditional ways of looking at the carbs.
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A spread bore carburetor is any carburetor whose secondary barrels are larger than the primary. Period. That's the definition and the smaller Edelbrocks meet it. Just because you don't like it or agree with it doesn't make you right.

It does make them a spread bore, square flange carburetor. I don't really give a flip if it's splittin hairs. It's either right or wrong. you are wrong here. Thank you drive through.

Make another thread if you want to argue this. I don't want to get this sidetracked as usual.
 
This is a great thread. I hope I didn't contribute to it's getting sidetracked.Wasn't trying to argue about which carb is best. I personally think whatever fits your budget is the best! And who cares one way or another,square or spread..
 
needsaresto said:
This is a great thread. I personally think whatever fits your budget is the best! And who cares one way or another,square or spread..
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Having trouble finding time to throw at it, and the recent snowy weather hasn't helped. But I'm getting back at it and will post the progress. I've had a couple of more items to post that I bought a bit ago, and I've spent about all I will need to spend. I'm a little under the 499.00. :D
 
I'm still planning my 318 upgrades and this thread has helped in so many ways. I spent the past hour & a 1/2 reading and watching the videos and I have to thank 318WillRun and everyone else who contributed.

I can't wait to see the final results. :happy1:
 
RogerK said:
I'm still planning my 318 upgrades and this thread has helped in so many ways. I spent the past hour & a 1/2 reading and watching the videos and I have to thank 318WillRun and everyone else who contributed.

I can't wait to see the final results. :happy1:
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Thanks RogerK !
 
Here is a cost that I was hoping to avoid. I'm pretty sure I could have lapped the old ones to work, however, they were pretty pitted. The seats looked great, along with the intake valves. I decided to go new. Leaky valves destroy gas mileage and performance. Period. I bought these from Summit when I ordered the rest of the stuff. Free shipping that way.

Cost 55.92
Brand - Sealed Power
Both the originals and the new weighed 105 grams per valve

Yes, I lapped the new valve against the seat to help them "seat".
 

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60.00 - intake
30.00 - porting heads and cleaning
58.00 - All gaskets (including more than this project will require)
48.00 - Eddy valve springs
110.00 - cam
5.00 - valve grinding compound
85.00 - carb
56.00 - new exhaust valves

Total spent - 452.00

Left in the budget: 47.00
 
Really enjoying this thread, just wanted to say a Big Thank-You to ALL who have contributed. the good, the bad and the ugly......

Big Congratulations to everyone for keeping it on track.... No mean feat.....

Just Love Barbee`s Post below.... Stand out Post for my money.... Spot On.....

:cheers:




barbee6043 said:
I will again applaud this build. we have so many first time guys show up here with their newly found prized mopar. usually it is get it ruuning/driving decent first... and with a BUDGET,... later comes maybe more performance into the equation.

not everyone, young or old has it in their budget to take the engine to the machine shop. $2-3000 bill!????? some of us older guys enjoy the deal of getting a cheap S B dropped into a lighter car for decent fun! continue on!!!!
buying a good Eddy carb off feebay for $75 clams makes me all warm and fuzzy too! ha
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RogerK said:
I'm still planning my 318 upgrades and this thread has helped in so many ways. I spent the past hour & a 1/2 reading and watching the videos and I have to thank 318WillRun and everyone else who contributed.

I can't wait to see the final results. :happy1:
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Great Post RogerK......Totally Agree..... Many Thanks 318WillRun......

Very Much Appreciate the time and effort you have put in here......

Outstanding......

:D
 
Couldn't you have ground the exhaust valves to clean up the faces or were new valves cheaper?
 
RogerK said:
Couldn't you have ground the exhaust valves to clean up the faces or were new valves cheaper?
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Great question! I had 3 choices. All three would have worked.

1). I could have put a lot of time into lapping them, and truthfully, I did start on a couple and they were coming along ok. But, there was a "edge" or "lip" I didn't really care for too much. I would have done this route if the money was more restricted.

2). I called a local performance machine shop, and they wanted between 25 - 30 bucks to grind them. They could have cleaned them up pretty nice I imagine. This would have been a cheaper route, but not that far away from new.

3). New was about 55 bucks at my door. I had pretty much bought all the components for the build, and there was room for them in the budget.

My thought process was the exhaust valves were 40 years old and had 120,000 miles on them. The exhaust valves take a beaten. Means the funds allowed it, why not new?
 
318willrun said:
Great question! I had 3 choices. All three would have worked.


2). I called a local performance machine shop, and they wanted between 25 - 30 bucks to grind them. They could have cleaned them up pretty nice I imagine. This would have been a cheaper route, but not that far away from new.
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One advantage to having the machine shop do the valve job would be that you could have had the valves back cut. Which would be a significant improvement in low lift flow which equates to better throttle response and low speed torque. I'm waiting to see the results of the finished set up though. Should be interesting.
 
318willrun said:
Great question! I had 3 choices. All three would have worked.

3). New was about 55 bucks at my door. I had pretty much bought all the components for the build, and there was room for them in the budget.

My thought process was the exhaust valves were 40 years old and had 120,000 miles on them. The exhaust valves take a beaten. Means the funds allowed it, why not new?
Click to expand...

With a cost difference of $25.00, replacing the old valves makes the most sense. I pulled valves out of a 66 273 and not only were the valves pitted with the lip edge, the grooves for the keepers were shot too. Good call and thanks for the explanation.
 
RustyRatRod said:
A spread bore carburetor is any carburetor whose secondary barrels are larger than the primary. Period. That's the definition and the smaller Edelbrocks meet it. Just because you don't like it or agree with it doesn't make you right.

It does make them a spread bore, square flange carburetor. I don't really give a flip if it's splittin hairs. It's either right or wrong. you are wrong here. Thank you drive through.

Make another thread if you want to argue this. I don't want to get this sidetracked as usual.
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LOL! Temper temper! LMFAO!!!! Holy chit, what bug crawled up your back side? I'll take a bakers dozen!

I'm not arguing. Just stating the fact. Seems like you don't like it much at all. I'll give you some advice and then leave it so you can prattle on and on.
"Take it with a grain of salt and take it on the hop buddy."

Any carb with equal or very close primary & secondary sides is a square bore while the big off set carbs are considered spreadbore carbs. It's what I have always read and been told until the wonderful net came around with its amazing wizdom!

Thank you, please get in your car to order at the window. :banghead:
The drive on through, do not stop at the window to order, just drive in through.
LMAO FOR REAL!

The real issue is people breaking balls about his build here.
 
I'm not upset in the least. Just point out the facts. What part of "start another thread did you not understand? I know you can read.
 
Yaaaaawn.... Where's 318run with some more cool *** pictures of this build?
 
318willrun said:
please read the 1st two post of this thread, the money and the target (goal) is all in the 1st two post
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Thx, just validating, $$$ & build perspectives have a habit of evolving :)---
P.s, a decent used cam from a 'police interceptor' Diplomat might cost $ 20.00
or so... IF said cam will not put You over budget !!!
 
mech1nxh said:
Thx, just validating, $$$ & build perspectives have a habit of evolving :)---
P.s, a decent used cam from a 'police interceptor' Diplomat might cost $ 20.00
or so... IF said cam will not put You over budget !!!
Click to expand...

I actually picked components that would allow somebody down the road to "evolve" this project should their money grow or they would decide they want a little more from it. I will also list what I would have done differently if I had worked from a little bigger budget.
 
Do you have any base line performance to compare before and after, or just working towards the 340 comparison?
 
cdavis said:
Do you have any base line performance to compare before and after, or just working towards the 340 comparison?
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No base line, just looking to run the '73 340 Duster auto/3.23 factory numbers. They ran very low 15's factory stock, and any help with traction (and traction only) they would get high 14's. I believe they had more but this is what is recorded, so I made this my target.

I thought I'd do this thread for those that ask (we see it quite often) on how to "add a little spunk" to their 318 2bbl on a small budget and limited knowledge. I thought running as strong (or very very close) as a factory '73 340 Duster would please them for a very small budget without pulling the motor, changing gears, buying expensive converters, I mean we are talking a true 499.00 dollar build.
 
60.00 - intake
30.00 - porting heads and cleaning
58.00 - All gaskets (including more than this project will require)
48.00 - Eddy valve springs
110.00 - cam
5.00 - valve grinding compound
85.00 - carb
56.00 - new exhaust valves
39.00 - double roller timing set

Total spent - 491.00

Left in the budget: 8.00
 
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