My Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge aren't working...

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Yep that the water temp sender. You can put that wire terminal to any handy ground source. Doesn't need to go to the battery.
If both gauges quit at the same time their power supply ( gauge voltage limiter ) is bad.
 
RedFish said:
Yep that the water temp sender. You can put that wire terminal to any handy ground source. Doesn't need to go to the battery.
If both gauges quit at the same time their power supply ( gauge voltage limiter ) is bad.
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Thanks Redfish. I ran a wire from the water temp sender to the negative battery cable with the ignition key in the run position. Nothing on the cluster moved. Recently the fuel gauge and temperature gauge stopped working. The brake light on the cluster works as does the alternator. The oil pressure switch also stopped working. My inner tail lamps/backup lights also quit at the same time. I have double checked all fuses. They are good. What's up.

Last night I reached up behind the cluster and removed the voltage limiter. I think this limiter is bad. How do I test it to see if it's good or bad?

I've been told if the voltage limiter goes bad, it can fry the temp/gas gauge. Right now I don't know whether to buy a new limiter or send the cluster out for repairs. Advise welcomed.
 
1974DartSport said:
I've been told if the voltage limiter goes bad, it can fry the temp/gas gauge. Right now I don't know whether to buy a new limiter or send the cluster out for repairs. Advise welcomed.
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there really isn't a good way to test the limiter outside of the system. The thing has bouncing mechanical points inside. They can stick closed or just burn open. Best advise is replace it.
 
Same problem here on dad's 69 Dart. No temp or gas gauge. I pulled the plug off the back of the cluster on the left hand side. Plugged it back in, temp gauge now works. Am I right to assume I've probably got some loose pins in the circuit board? Gas gauge worked as recent as a few months ago, but has been dead since the temp gauge went out. Dad is probably gonna bite the bullet and get a new board, as we're gonna have everything apart to install new dash bezels from BE&A Parts. I'll pop in a new regulator while it's all apart.:thumblef:
 
i just want to know if the voltage limiter is in the guage how do you modify the guage so you can use an external solid state limiter?
:read2:
 
I had the same problem with my '69 dart and it turned out to be that the gauges were not tight to the circuit board, tightened them up and all is good now!
 
jd340 said:
Same problem here on dad's 69 Dart. No temp or gas gauge. I pulled the plug off the back of the cluster on the left hand side. Plugged it back in, temp gauge now works. Am I right to assume I've probably got some loose pins in the circuit board? Gas gauge worked as recent as a few months ago, but has been dead since the temp gauge went out. Dad is probably gonna bite the bullet and get a new board, as we're gonna have everything apart to install new dash bezels from BE&A Parts. I'll pop in a new regulator while it's all apart.:thumblef:
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I used the tiny trim nails/brads and backed up all the pins into both of the circuit boards on my Dart. most of the pins were loose and the solder cracked away so unless you tweaked the connectors just right the gages on that side and lights would come and go. Since I redid all the pins almost 20 years ago the gages and lights are like a rock, no more off and on of anything that is sposed to work as long as the sender and limiter is good.
Most of the mopar cars use similar circuit boards and pins so the fix applies to just about any of them.
I now have a 78 dodge van I scored cheap that has a few issues and one of them is loose connectors and pins on the dash circuit boards, if I decide to do some more repairs that is one of the things I will do to it as well, as the gages work if you tweak the connectors as well.
Just remember to insulate the back of the metal plate that the boards mount on or you could possibly someday short out the dash if any of the repairs are sticking out a bit farther then the stock boards and pins.
 
By lubing the speedo do you mean just putting grease all over the cable inside of it and putting it back on the rear of speedometer? Would this also help with the bouncy around at lower speeds? Thanks!
 
Take the cable out of the car; hose the inside with cleaner,until it runs out clean; not wd40. Then shoot graphite down it, until it runs out the other end.
 
Just so you're clear.... an ammeter is an amp-meter which measures current measured in amperes or amps for short. A voltmeter measures voltage, sometimes called "potential difference" in a circuit. I believe all the older A bodies used ammeters which were in series with just about everything electrical in the car except for the starter circuit so if it opened up you were screwed.
 
challyrtse said:
Anyone ever tried building your own 5 volt limiter? Here's the link to a site that explains it:
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Yes, I've done that mod. This is how mine turned out...

vbpgimage.jpg
 
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