my turn light is my arm

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I know this is stupid, but you have checked to make sure you are putting the right size fuse in there, right?
When did the problem start? Had you done any work on the car just beforehand - maybe installing carpet or something where you may have damaged the wiring with a screw?
C
 
clhyer said:
I know this is stupid, but you have checked to make sure you are putting the right size fuse in there, right?
When did the problem start? Had you done any work on the car just beforehand - maybe installing carpet or something where you may have damaged the wiring with a screw?
C
Click to expand...

Actually not stupid at all. And make sure the fuse clips are not corroded and are tight making good contact.


When I was in HVAC we could have easily killed a guy. We were retrofitting a house with natural gas from electric. The new furnace / duct / and gas pipe were all being "roughed in." The gas pipe was not yet hooked to the furnace. One of the guys, on a ladder, had a piece of duct balancing on his head and reached over to the gas pipe to steady himself and got a nasty shock.

Turns out the homeowner had illegally installed a piece of romex near a closet molding, where the gas pipe run by. One of our guys had installed a pipe hanger and had

NEATLY RUN A SCREW RIGHT THROUGH the hot lead of the Romex, connecting the gas pipe to 120VAC

The pipe was just getting installed, and the ground bond had not been installed yet.
 
update
unhooked,but not all at the same time
radio
blower motor
ts harness
rear lighting harness at kick panel
flasher
still blows as soon as key ign is turned on
pulled fuse box and checked from grounded wire
yes im using correct 30 amp fuse,10 so far,unhook suspected part install fuse,blow,next
ive found no obvious chaffed wire or bare spots,and believe me ive looked,with the exception of untapping harness.
i have not done anything with the nss.??


i am leaning towards something behind the dash.but at this point it is really getting frustrating.thanks for all replys(except the cotter pin deal,lol)
 
memike said:
I was thinking the turn sig's are in with the brake lights...could the short be in the brake switch at the brake peddle.. just thinking
Click to expand...

cant be i have brake lights.i have every light(minus back up)even on the dash,h igh beam ind.even turn indicators when using flasher
 
DAMN buddy so WHY have you not checked the NSS? That is the ONE thing that is the most susceptable to DAMAGE, and is something I suggested earlier.

That wire can....

get tangled up and melted on the exhaust

get caught up in the kick-down

get unhooked due to ice, mud, etc, and various mechanics activities, get fouled "down there in the grease."

This would be the no1 suspect with a great big mug shot

'E sure looks guilty to me..........

Puppy_pleads_guilty.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
I understood maybe the OP can confirm that he disconnected the TS switch and the short is still there

You have a factory shop manual? You can download one free, here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

More manuals and more info here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Dart stuff starts page 8-152

Fuse listing is page 8-114

One thing that is subject to damage is the REVERSE LAMPS which is on that fuse
Click to expand...





i unhooked the rear lighting harness,so that took that out of the picture
 
nm9stheham said:
The starter circuit is completely separate. Just keep digging along the wiring in that circuit as described. And the wire color from the fues to the first connection drop to the radio coudl well be black; often the wire colros on the mymopar schematics seem to be suggestions... or the factory was out of red wire that day!

You took the column wiring and turn signal switch out of the circuit when you pulled the flasher. (Turn signal power to the TS switch has to go through the flasher.)

As far as checking the line out to the neutral-safety/backup switch, the wiring to the NSS section of that switch is competely separate from the wiring to the backup section of the switch. So you can have a good functioning NSS, and at the same time have a short to ground in the backup switch section or the wiring to/from the back up switch. So that HAS to be troubleshot as part of your investigation.
Click to expand...




i will inhook the nss and see what happens
 
67Dart273 said:
DAMN buddy so WHY have you not checked the NSS? That is the ONE thing that is the most susceptable to DAMAGE, and is something I suggested earlier.

That wire can....

get tangled up and melted on the exhaust

get caught up in the kick-down

get unhooked due to ice, mud, etc, and various mechanics activities, get fouled "down there in the grease."

This would be the no1 suspect with a great big mug shot

'E sure looks guilty to me..........

Puppy_pleads_guilty.jpg
Click to expand...




i looked for a short in the wires but did not unplug it
 
Sorry, if you have not disconnected the NSS & reverse light switch, you have not disconnected all that you can on this part of the circuit. Disconnecting the rear harness does not take this out of the picture. 12v fed from this blowing fuse goes from terminal W on the bulkhead connectors out to the backup lights section of that switch and then it comes back to terminal Z on the bulkhead connectors; both wires are black. It then goes from terminal Z to the connector to the rear harness via a white wire. Any short along that path will blow this fuse.

There is also another black wire that carries the is 12V from the backup switch back to terminal C on the bulkhead connections but I can't see where it goes on the dash side. It may be for a backup indicator light on the dash or console on some models. You need to check that out too.
 
nm9stheham said:
Sorry, if you have not disconnected the NSS & reverse light switch, you have not disconnected all that you can on this part of the circuit. Disconnecting the rear harness does not take this out of the picture. 12v fed from this blowing fuse goes from terminal W on the bulkhead connectors out to the backup lights section of that switch and then it comes back to terminal Z on the bulkhead connectors; both wires are black. It then goes from terminal Z to the connector to the rear harness via a white wire. Any short along that path will blow this fuse.

There is also another black wire that carries the is 12V form the back switch back to terminal C on the bulkhead connections but I can't see where it goes on the dash side. It may be for a backup indicator light on the dash or console on some models.
Click to expand...




i will tommorrow,i have beer tonight to pass out to the holloweeners.im mean candy.beer is for me.
 
"unhooked rearlighting pigtail,blows fuses.unhooked steering column turn signal harness,same."

This is what I gathered. But I could have read it wrong...

The 12 V B/U wire that is mentioned should come back up to bulkhead(using wiper motor bulkhead) then go in dash and out to rear tail light harness.
 
Well, the backup wire feeding back to the lamps would not be the problem. The problem would be in the power wire feeding TO the backup switch
 
problem found.67dart273 is the winner.followed wiring back from nss and found melted and burnt wiring.thanks all.im sooo glad i finally found it.
 
When you let the Smoke Out your Fried. Try something better. Melting wires together is foolhardy and dangerous.

Lets be diagnosticians about this. It takes time but its better than rewiring.

How can you unhook the :

73 duster,blows fuses on that circiut,checked wiring,cant find any bare wires,looked everywhere,unhooked rearlighting pigtail,blows fuses.unhooked steering column turn signal harness,same.

Patients,Patients,Patients.

If you have pulled the harness from the steering col there are no connections left?? IF Then You HAVE A SHORT IN THE COLUMN SWITCH and it still shorts then THE UNIVERSE IS AGAINST YOU AND YOU NEED TO STOP!.

Please Chill and be more diagnostic about your problem - Chill - It will come to you.

My adv:
Pull the Circuit box from under the dash and inspect the top connectors. A mouse could **** a piece of wire on any connector - clean the top connections if needed. This will also allow you to try continuity test thru circuits and help you to more easily replace fuses.

Diagnose each circuit -
You cannot unhook the steering col circuit and still have a shortage. Nothing is connected at that point.

Disconnect all light circuits - unplug everything then reconnect/test each circuit and test - IT Takes Time and Patients.

Mice are the primary culpret - Chill out and take your time --

You can make a simple circuit tester with a modern type door buzzer and a couple of jumper leads. The buzzer can be connected to any circuit and then when it is energized you will hear the buzzer. Simple enough? There is always a simple explanation for a complex problem - always is. Write down what you have tested in detail. then review what you have tested.

These are Old Cars - Be Patient - Its a hobby - no more - try to have more fun with them - chill - they dont make them any more and you have one!

Always Curious and willing to try to help,

Bcudamatt.
 
Bcudamatt said:
When you let the Smoke Out your Fried. Try something better. Melting wires together is foolhardy and dangerous.

Lets be diagnosticians about this. It takes time but its better than rewiring.

How can you unhook the :

73 duster,blows fuses on that circiut,checked wiring,cant find any bare wires,looked everywhere,unhooked rearlighting pigtail,blows fuses.unhooked steering column turn signal harness,same.

Patients,Patients,Patients.

If you have pulled the harness from the steering col there are no connections left?? IF Then You HAVE A SHORT IN THE COLUMN SWITCH and it still shorts then THE UNIVERSE IS AGAINST YOU AND YOU NEED TO STOP!.

Please Chill and be more diagnostic about your problem - Chill - It will come to you.

My adv:
Pull the Circuit box from under the dash and inspect the top connectors. A mouse could **** a piece of wire on any connector - clean the top connections if needed. This will also allow you to try continuity test thru circuits and help you to more easily replace fuses.

Diagnose each circuit -
You cannot unhook the steering col circuit and still have a shortage. Nothing is connected at that point.

Disconnect all light circuits - unplug everything then reconnect/test each circuit and test - IT Takes Time and Patients.

Mice are the primary culpret - Chill out and take your time --

You can make a simple circuit tester with a modern type door buzzer and a couple of jumper leads. The buzzer can be connected to any circuit and then when it is energized you will hear the buzzer. Simple enough? There is always a simple explanation for a complex problem - always is. Write down what you have tested in detail. then review what you have tested.

These are Old Cars - Be Patient - Its a hobby - no more - try to have more fun with them - chill - they dont make them any more and you have one!

Always Curious and willing to try to help,

Bcudamatt.
Click to expand...





i dont need a lecture from you.i did unhook the the harness to the ts switch at the column AND IT DID STILL BLOW THE FUSE.the problem was in the wiring from the engine compartment plug to nss.i unplugged it and pulled it out to get a closer look.thats where i found the problem.it had gotten on the exhaust at some point.made a whole new harness and retaped
 
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