Narrowing an 8 1/4" rear end, how is it done?

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OK, not the greatest title, but whatever.

My '67 Barracuda has a GM 8.2 rear end on it, for who knows what reason. I found a 8 1/4" 3.21 4.5" bolt pattern open rear end that's already had the perches moved for an A-body. Problem is it's supposedly 63" flange to flange, but the guy didn't get around to narrowing it because he found a 8 3/4". The price is too good to pass up. I've never narrowed a rear end, but I do know the axle tubes and axles will need to be shortened. Are the axle tubes something a typical driveshaft shop would do? As far as the axles themselves, shorten them (if it's doable)? Or am I better off looking for a set of new or used axles?

This is going behind an A833 trans with a 360 Magnum engine. No outrageous HP :)
Are you sure that one of the local pull a part type yards don't have an A-body 8.25? They are fairly common in '73-6 A bodies.
 
Are you sure that one of the local pull a part type yards don't have an A-body 8.25? They are fairly common in '73-6 A bodies.
I'll have to start hunting around. We moved about 45 miles north a couple years ago, and there's a bunch of interesting looking junk yards I haven't been to in this area.
 
Additionally, depending on the year, it may have a flange-type pinion yoke that will need to be dealt with, either by replacing with a U joint yoke or using the driveshaft end adapter from the Jeep, possibly with an adapter U joint.
On the subject of the Jeep Liberty 8-1/4, if the Liberty rear axle companion flange is like a Dakota or Durango, then it takes a 1330 U-Joint. Have a driveline shop put a 1330 yoke on your driveshaft for an upgrade over your rear 7260 U joint. There’s no comparison in strength between early strap and bolt setup vs. the newer bolt on companion flange fixed yoke arrangement.
Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 2-2-1379 Spicer Drivetrain Products Flange Yokes | Summit Racing
 
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I'll have to start hunting around. We moved about 45 miles north a couple years ago, and there's a bunch of interesting looking junk yards I haven't been to in this area.
The Pull-A-Part in Augusta, SC always seemed to have a good variety of old cars, but I haven't been there in a few years.
 
The Pull-A-Part in Augusta, SC always seemed to have a good variety of old cars, but I haven't been there in a few years.
I think things have changed at Pull-A-Part. I searched for any Plymouth model between '65 and '76 in Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, and South Carolina, and came up with 2 pre-1990 vehicles. Technically, the one you mentioned is in Augusta, GA. It backs up to the west side of the river. The east side of the river is SC. But I knew what you meant :)
 
I think things have changed at Pull-A-Part. I searched for any Plymouth model between '65 and '76 in Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, and South Carolina, and came up with 2 pre-1990 vehicles. Technically, the one you mentioned is in Augusta, GA. It backs up to the west side of the river. The east side of the river is SC. But I knew what you meant :)
Some yards don't show cars prior to '81 since the VIN has less than the 17 characters that their inventory system is set up for. That may be the case with at least as few of the yards that you are searching. It might be worth dropping in an taking a look if you are close enough.
 
Some yards don't show cars prior to '81 since the VIN has less than the 17 characters that their inventory system is set up for. That may be the case with at least as few of the yards that you are searching. It might be worth dropping in an taking a look if you are close enough.
Possibly. Although when I was hitting the one in Norcross, GA about 5 years ago for parts for my '93 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, I noticed mostly what they had was later model stuff. They also have a really high turnover rate. If it sits too long with no activity or it's been picked clean, it's gone. This is probably very dependent on the value of scrap metal and wanting to make space for more desirable incoming desirable cars. I'm guessing the more rural and privately owned yards are where to find the really good stuff.
 
OK, not the greatest title, but whatever.

My '67 Barracuda has a GM 8.2 rear end on it, for who knows what reason. I found a 8 1/4" 3.21 4.5" bolt pattern open rear end that's already had the perches moved for an A-body. Problem is it's supposedly 63" flange to flange, but the guy didn't get around to narrowing it because he found a 8 3/4". The price is too good to pass up. I've never narrowed a rear end, but I do know the axle tubes and axles will need to be shortened. Are the axle tubes something a typical driveshaft shop would do? As far as the axles themselves, shorten them (if it's doable)? Or am I better off looking for a set of new or used axles?

This is going behind an A833 trans with a 360 Magnum engine. No outrageous HP :)
Too bad your not closer. I got a '68 Valiant with a narrowed 9" ford that I'm swapping out. 5 on 4.5"
 
In my 1965 Barracuda I am running a 1977 Dodge Aspen 8 1/4 with a Dodge Van's 8 3/8 3.55:1 Suregrip. With stock Cop Car Ralley 15-7 rims and 275/60 15's. I put the drums from my 74 Dart Swinger, 10" by 2.5" on the housing too.

The 8 1/4 Center Diff is the same as a Truck 8 3/8's so finding a set of 3.55:1 Suregrip is easier too.
 
I myself am a big fan of the 8-1/4. If outfitted with the LPW braces, girdle, and housing studs along with 29 spline green bearing, axles, it nearly matches an 8-3/4 for strength (it will actually flex a lot less) and absorbs less power to boot.
 
OK, not the greatest title, but whatever.

My '67 Barracuda has a GM 8.2 rear end on it, for who knows what reason. I found a 8 1/4" 3.21 4.5" bolt pattern open rear end that's already had the perches moved for an A-body. Problem is it's supposedly 63" flange to flange, but the guy didn't get around to narrowing it because he found a 8 3/4". The price is too good to pass up. I've never narrowed a rear end, but I do know the axle tubes and axles will need to be shortened. Are the axle tubes something a typical driveshaft shop would do? As far as the axles themselves, shorten them (if it's doable)? Or am I better off looking for a set of new or used axles?

This is going behind an A833 trans with a 360 Magnum engine. No outrageous HP :)
Always more than one way to skin a cat. There are Youtube videos on how to narrow a Ford 8.8.
Strip the axle housing. How much do you need to narrow it? In the case of the Ford, 2 7/8" can be cut from the long tube and get a new short axle to use. The diff housing will be centered while the driveshaft will be at a slight angle. This is not a problem. Then the perches need to fit the width for the springs.
The procedure involves cutting the chosen amount out of the tube. Use a shirt cardboard or equivalent to mark a straight cut line about the center of the tube, but closer to the outside. Measure over toward the diff housing the amount desired to remove and mark the inner cut line. Using a cutoff disc in an angle grinder and about 1/16" on the side to be removed, cut the outer end off. Then cut the "to be removed piece" off the tube 1/16" from your cut line.
Two pieces of 2 1/2" channel about 16" long and a couple of C clamps will hold the sections square. The length shold be measured between the diff casting and the brake flange before and after cutting. The 1/16" left on allows trimming for a square fit for welding. If a line is marked before cutting horizontally on the tube, this can be lined up so the brake brackets are level side to side.
Some axles can be narrowed and some can not. If just the long side can narrow it enough, a new axle for the short side can be purchased. A word of caution, word has it the axles can take a "set" and may break if a short axle from a recycle yard is used.
If your axle uses c clip retention, differential companies like Mark Williams and Currie to name two, can supply the Ford large Torino housing ends to weld on. This gives the pressed on bearings required for most racing. With that though you need to purchase new axles with a step to press the bearings to, and the bearings with retainer plates.
The other method is again measure the length from the center housing to the brake flange. There is a couple of kits available if you intend to do a bunch, that keeps the tube straight. This method after stripping the housing requires using a hole saw to cut the rosett welds holding the tube into the center housing. Use a die grinder to clean up around the holes. The tube can then be pushed out. Cut the desired amount off and press the tube back in. Double check the length measurement. Tack weld at first 180° and then 90° to those at the outside of the center section and the tube. Use a dial indicator as the housing is rotated on axle stands to verify it is straight. At this point if there is runout, the tacks can be ground and the housing put in a press to get it true. Tack again and retest with the dial indicator. Reweld in the holes and around the tubes. Only do 90°around and then turn it 180° and weld another 90°. Then finish the rest.
If both sides are to be narrowed, I would complete one side before moving to the other side.
If you need to order axles, consider spline count. Going to this much work, I expect a bit of LSD is to be tossed in. The axle supplier can also provide the carrier with spline count and axles machined to match.
 
Near as I can tell, General Mao has never used a 4¼" bolt pattern. GM's car bolt pattern is 5 on 4¾"--larger than Chrysler, Ford, and AMC's 5 on 4½". The Mopar "BVD" bolt pattern is 5 on 4". Ford used the oddball 4¼" pattern on some RWD cars, but as far as I'm aware they were all IRS (Thunderbird, Mark VIII, Continental). The Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco twins used it, too, but they were FWD.
Whatever the axle is, it ain't a GM 8.2" unless you're off on the measurement.

All A-body 8¾" axles share the same dimensions from 1965-'72 (supposedly 50 1965 cars were built with it for homologation) and fit models through 1976. The 8¼" was first used in 1969 B-bodies, but didn't appear in A-bodies until '73.

The 8¼" just isn't worth the effort to narrow it. The labor & material are less to narrow a C-body/truck 8¾", which is far stronger.
Early Mustangs, Falcons, Mustang 2 and the Thunderbird Turbo Coupe had the 4 1/4" bolt circle. I believe they were all 4 bolt. Funny thing, the 1950's Austin A40 also had the 4 bolt 4 1/4" boly pattern.
 
Early Mustangs, Falcons, Mustang 2 and the Thunderbird Turbo Coupe had the 4 1/4" bolt circle. I believe they were all 4 bolt. Funny thing, the 1950's Austin A40 also had the 4 bolt 4 1/4" boly pattern.
I'm not sure why you brought this up. There was no confusion regarding the number of wheel studs on the axle in question. 4-lug wheels have no bearing on this discussion, nor any involving the RWD Chrysler-built cars of this era. Why bother?
 
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