need a pic of master cylinder with manual setup

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MoparOrNokar

HammerTime
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Just what the title says. Lookingnfor a firewall close up of manual brakes master cylinder. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
Here's one just after I finished putting a dual MC in my 66 Barracuda.

What year, what car are you looking for?
 

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Thank you 66fyssh. Im switching to manual and i was confused about removing the bracket forbthe booster. I see how it works now
 
Cool, glad it worked.

There is an adapter available out there to go from four bolts in the firewall to two for some later model Master Cylinders.
 
Also consider what MC bore size you want. Most people like 7/8"D (or smaller), especially if changing to front disks, but depends on how strong your legs are. If you buy a "manual MC", most come w/ the brake rod and dust boot (see rockauto). I use a later 2-bolt alum MC in all 3 of my classic Mopars.
 
BillGrissom said:
Also consider what MC bore size you want. Most people like 7/8"D (or smaller), especially if changing to front disks, but depends on how strong your legs are. If you buy a "manual MC", most come w/ the brake rod and dust boot (see rockauto). I use a later 2-bolt alum MC in all 3 of my classic Mopars.
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Really good info, thanks to the OP for asking this.
Any chance we could see a picture of the 2 bolt adaptor mc's??

Thanks!
 
Here's what I used
 

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tekslk said:
Whats that off of? Hows it working out?
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If your asking about mine. mopar F,M,J body 1-1/32" bore. with an adjustable prop. (wilwoods at all corners). I've done it before and it works great
 
The OP needs to say if this is for a drum/drum or disc/drum application. The top pix is of a dual MC for a disc drum setup, and will not have the residual valve in the front system that is used with drums up front. Ditto for the 2 bolt F-body MC shown.
 
nm9stheham said:
The OP needs to say if this is for a drum/drum or disc/drum application. The top pix is of a dual MC for a disc drum setup, and will not have the residual valve in the front system that is used with drums up front. Ditto for the 2 bolt F-body MC shown.
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GREAT catch!!!! Yes, my pic is for a Disc/Drum car!!
 
I use the later 2-bolt m/c's on both my Duster and my Challenger with a 15/16" bore. Dr. Diff sells them all set up with the adaptor etc.

http://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html

You can also use them with the 1-1/32" bore (the 15/16" version is sleeved down from the standard 1-1/32). The 15/16" bore gives a higher line pressure, but it takes a little more leg. I think the 15/16" bore is perfect, but everything on my car is manual. I actually just switched the Challenger over from power brakes.

Don't forget that you'll need a new brake push rod for the manual m/c.
 
My set up is disc front drum rear. I guess im just not understanding how this all works. From my firewall i have a piece of flatstock with a dog ear on the top. Im not understanding the rod part i guess. Call me stupid lol
 
No, not stupid, you just haven't done a master cylinder conversion yet!!!


The master cylinder has a plunger, or rod that extends from the firewall side of the master cylinder to the brake pedal. As you apply pressure to the brake pedal, the plunger pushes brake fluid to build hydraulic pressure to all four wheels to activate the brakes.

If your car was a Disc/Drum you should have a proportioning valve in the system. It allows greater pressure to be applied to the front discs since they take more pressure than drums. It will need to stay or your rear drums will lock up before the front discs. My original Kelsey-Hayes proportioning valve was leaking, and after trying to rebuild it, I decided to buy a new proportioning valve from Summit.
 
So here is what i have. Im guessing that rod is what needs to be replaced? Has anyone modified something to make they're own rod? I bought a new master cylinder from autozone for a 70 duster. They asked if it was drum or disc but it apears its only a sigle res MC. If i went to the later MC what year and model am i looking for?
 

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MoparOrNokar said:
So here is what i have. Im guessing that rod is what needs to be replaced? Has anyone modified something to make they're own rod? I bought a new master cylinder from autozone for a 70 duster. They asked if it was drum or disc but it apears its only a sigle res MC. If i went to the later MC what year and model am i looking for?
Click to expand...

Yes, you need a manual brake rod, unbolt the one in your pic from the brake pedal. You can buy an adjustable manual rod. Mancini and summit have them. Make sure you get the small plastic piece for the end of the rod, it keeps it from falling out of the mc. I swapped to an aluminum 2 bolt version like in pic above, with the 4 to 2 bolt adaptor and bought a mc for 79 aspen.

http://www.manciniracing.com/brakcylpuspa.html
 
OP, did you car come originally with the disc brakes up front? Or, have these been changed out to the later '73-'76 disc brakes? I ask because the earlier disc brakes were Kelsey-Hayes and the later were not, and they are different; MC's are somewhat universal buuut...... If you don't know which you have, can share a pix of one of the front calipers or tell us if it has one pisotn on one side only, or 4 pistons, 2 in each side of the caliper?

If Autozone is showing a single MC, that is surely wrong; the single MC's went away after '66.

If it turns out that you have the later '73-'76 disc brakes, then the disc/drum MC for power brakes is 15/16" and the same for manual brakes is 1-1/32". We used the power brakes version (15/16") with our '73-'76 disc brakes and 11"x2-1/2" rear drums and it worked fine. (NAPA Part# NMC M2122) It looks like the one that 66fyssh shows in post #2. With improved front pads to set most of the F-to-R proportioning, it is even better.

BTW, do you know what size rear drum brakes that you have? (This has to do with the proportioning front-to-rear.)
 
I checked the MC and it is a dual res. The brake setup is off a 74 dart. Disc front drum rear. Not sure in size. All 4 wheels are LBP. I cant find a dimension for the bore size of the new master. Can i measure from the back with calipers?
 
OK, you have the standard '73-'76 disc setup; that is good.

The only way I know to be sure on the bore diameter is to pull the snap ring out of the back, while making sure the piston does not pop out too far and measure the bore or piston. This is because I cannot tell you for sure if the piston's bore behind the snap ring is the same as the bore in front of the snap ring. Maybe someone else knows for sure.

BTW, the correct disc/drum MC will have a much larger rear 'bulge' in the cover than the front 'bulge', and a much longer rear reservoir to match the longer rear 'bulge'. If the front and rear bulges are the same size, then you have an MC for a drum/drum setup. Also, the disc/drum MC cast body is taller.

I know that the NAPA MC Part # that I listed will be right. Can you list the Autozone MC PN? My concern is that you said it was for a '70 model and that is very likely incorrect.
 
MoparOrNokar said:
Has anyone modified something to make they're own rod? If i went to the later MC what year and model am i looking for?
Click to expand...

Yes. I did, welded up my own deal. You can also buy them from places like brewers performance. I used the power MC and it works great. I just kicked the booster crapola to the round file and bolted the MC to the firewall.

Dead simple.
 
MoparOrNokar said:
Nm1323
Click to expand...
That Autozone PN is NG (no good) for discs; that MC is for a drum/drum system. The older drum/drum reservoirs have a residual valve in the front system, and that needs to be punched out... no warranty anymore. I would take it back, get the $ back and go to NAPA and get the part I listed above of you want the 15/16" piston MC. Autozone lists one new MC for disc/drum but it says it is for manual brakes and so probably has the 1-1/32" bore....and it is over $100. The NAPA new MC that I listed is in the $55-62 range, depending on your discount level there.
 
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