Need advice on a 340 stroker engine

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73smallblock said:
Where would be a good place to post my build? Small block forum or racer's? Ive been really busy this and keep forgetting to do so. Also in the process of buying a new house.
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Wherever you post, let us know so I can check it out!
 
340sFastback said:
Like others said you will need some good flowing heads, high quality rocker arms and push rods, and big enough cam to let the large displacement small block breath. Otherwise it will be like a truck engine all out of breath at 4500 rpms.
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I was leaning towards the 190 Trickflow heads and some nice 1.6 rockers and a good size cam that will work well with the sniper efi and produce as much power as I can.
 
xdrakk said:
I was leaning towards the 190 Trickflow heads and some nice 1.6 rockers and a good size cam that will work well with the sniper efi and produce as much power as I can.
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post #22 is a 514hp trick flow 408 build
 
xdrakk said:
That is a great place to start, and it sounds like almost everything I had read and was leaning towards. I was just going to go the Eagle route instead of the Scat for the rotating assembly.

Great link and thanks!
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I would recommend Scat but have a local shop balance it. Their "balanced" kits tend to be way off.
 
xdrakk said:
That is a great place to start, and it sounds like almost everything I had read and was leaning towards. I was just going to go the Eagle route instead of the Scat for the rotating assembly.

Great link and thanks!
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I'd use scat over eagle, and I would use molnar over either other choice
 
I’m not an Eagle fan either and have used K1 and Molnar by choice in my builds. With that being said I bought my R3 block in a group buy with an Eagle crank and Eagle rods. Everything was checked over by a machine shop and it sat for years. So I checked everything over and assembled it and ran it for five years. It was shifted around 7000 rpm and ran 5.98 in the 1/8 and 9.38@138 in the 1/4. I have Molnar stuff that will be getting balanced and going in it this time. My buddy bought my old Eagle assembly.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I’m not an Eagle fan either and have used K1 and Molnar by choice in my builds. With that being said I bought my R3 block in a group buy with an Eagle crank and Eagle rods. Everything was checked over by a machine shop and it sat for years. So I checked everything over and assembled it and ran it for five years. It was shifted around 7000 rpm and ran 5.98 in the 1/8 and 9.38@138 in the 1/4. I have Molnar stuff that will be getting balanced and going in it this time. My buddy bought my old Eagle assembly.
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Good to know about Molnar. I will check their stuff out as well.
 
xdrakk said:
Good to know about Molnar. I will check their stuff out as well.
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The more you find out the more you will like Tom Molnar. Quality is his middle name and he’s been involved with many well known rod and crank producers. Remember most of if not all of the stuff we budget builders use is imported but it’s what goes on after the stuff lands.
 
pittsburghracer said:
The more you find out the more you will like Tom Molnar. Quality is his middle name and he’s been involved with many well known rod and crank producers. Remember most of if not all of the stuff we budget builders use is imported but it’s what goes on after the stuff lands.
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Good to know. I just sent him a message to see what all he can help out with. Thanks, I appreciate all the recommendations
 
xdrakk said:
Good to know. I just sent him a message to see what all he can help out with. Thanks, I appreciate all the recommendations
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Vic Elinger at Wiseco in Ohio is another great guy to deal with. Vic can get you K1 cranks and rods and many different piston options.
 
xdrakk said:
I thought about shipping my block, but it seemed a bit scary to be honest. It seemed expensive and even more so on the way back with the rotating assembly all done as a for instance.

What does that type of pricing look like for your shop and where are you located?

I thought my budget was decent and could get some good parts. I just don't want to spend 2k chasing 20 horsepower, so I set my goals on the 500-ish range, hopefully more if its affordable.

Do you have any experience with the sniper efi kit?
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I would not sweat shipping. Wouldn’t think twice about it. And in the whole scheme of things, the shipping is a pittance of the overall cost.
 
""a street car for the most part. Driven on nice days and to shows
I am not going to be taking it to the strip and racing it really on any level. I was hoping to achieve in the 500 to 550hp or so."
My question is why 550 hp for this ? Just buy a crate engine drive it foryears when you sell the car numers matching will get you more $$ for some reason .. put lots of chrome and stickers and tell them you have 600+ hp at shows :;-)
 
Keep in mind too…Eagle, Molnar, Scat, K1, Compstar, etc…all are Chinese forgings with very little if any difference between them.
The differences emerge because they are by and large machined here in the US.
It’s the quality/ accuracy of the machining which could make a difference.
I think Eagle sometimes gets a bad name over issues with the cast stroker cranks from 15-20 years ago. I broke one myself in a car running 10.30’s but it was a few years old at that point.
Otherwise, haven’t heard anything bad at all these days regards Eagle forged Cranks. I think all the above are extremely similar, and a competent shop should check any of them before using.
 
B3422w5 said:
Keep in mind too…Eagle, Molnar, Scat, K1, Compstar, etc…all are Chinese forgings with very little if any difference between them.
The differences emerge because they are by and large machined here in the US.
It’s the quality/ accuracy of the machining which could make a difference.
I think Eagle sometimes gets a bad name over issues with the cast stroker cranks from 15-20 years ago. I broke one myself in a car running 10.30’s but it was a few years old at that point.
Otherwise, haven’t heard anything bad at all these days regards Eagle forged Cranks. I think all the above are extremely similar, and a competent shop should check any of them before using.
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Never had problems with any of my Molnar cranks , shop I go to has had a few failures with Eagle cranks , not many maybe 3 went bad . Everything is now made in China , not much can be done about that . Anything made 100% in the US is rare and pricey
 
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