Need advice. Remove K frame?

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E Satterfield

E Satterfield

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I currently have the engine out of my 72 Duster. The steering column is also out of the car as I’m converting from power to manual steering. I want to paint the engine bay and also paint K frame. Replace strut rod bushings and upgrade the torsion bars. Would it make for an easier job if I were to remove the K member? I’m new to Mopars but this seemed like the way to go? Opinions?? Thanks!
 
With all that needing done it would have come out with the engine sitting on top of it here. Yank it out, do all the work and put everything back in as an assembly!
 
E Satterfield said:
I currently have the engine out of my 72 Duster. The steering column is also out of the car as I’m converting from power to manual steering. I want to paint the engine bay and also paint K frame. Replace strut rod bushings and upgrade the torsion bars. Would it make for an easier job if I were to remove the K member? I’m new to Mopars but this seemed like the way to go? Opinions?? Thanks!
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All good advice here. Yes, you’re going to get a much more thorough job by taking the k frame out. Easier to clean easier to reassemble and like the other guy said, set the engine on top of the k frame with all of the steering and suspension stuff on it and then just set the car on top of that.
 
It's also easier to sand and paint the engine bay with the k-member removed. It only weighs about 35 lbs so it's easy to remove.
 
E Satterfield said:
I don’t have a lift. But was thinking I could possibly drop the K with a motorcycle/ATV jack?
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Guys have lifted the body off the K/ engine with a cherry picker. You need some sort of dolly, and if you do a search here in the tools thread you'll find several project ones. That is, by the way, how the factory installed them. Drop the body onto the engine/ K
 
I was amazed at how many stress cracks were in mine. Since seeing that I vowed that every chance I had, with future projects, I would drop the k-member and inspect/ clean/ seam weld. If the engine is out might as well .
 
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I removed mine, welded all the seams, blasted it, and painted it with POR-15. I figured with my 408, it was cheap insurance.
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Great to see these K-Frame threads as they are helping me as I get close to the swap. New K is staged, all degreased, cleaned and sealed. I decided to go with Eastwood products: Encapsulator and top with Frame Black. I'm taking the preassembly approach with the replacement steering box and motor mounts pre-staged and plan to use a cherry-picker to support the engine then drop and swap underneath. The replacement frame already has the FirmFeel reinforcement kit welded in.
 
One more question for you guys....I have the front of the car supported with jack stands under the frame rails...I have a new Blueprint 408 and an A833 to go back in the car....Since I don't have a lift.....Would it be easier for me to re install the K frame and then install the engine and trans?....Or try to do it as an assembly like the factory from below?....I have Dougs headers and manual steering and will be upgrading to 1.03 torsion bars....I don't have access to many helpers as it's mostly just me doing the work and whatever my wife can help out with which is willing to do as she's a true car girl....Is there some kind of dollies you might recommend? Not being a cheap *** but they would probably be of a one time use..I'm just about ready to retire with restoration work...Time to maintain drive and enjoy instead of hours in the garage .Thank you all for your input it's very much appreciated.... Eric
 
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Drop it out from the bottom. Four bolts and your done. No hoist needed use a cherry picker. Look at my photo closely.





























































































































































































































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E Satterfield said:
One more question for you guys....I have the front of the car supported with jack stands under the frame rails...I have a new Blueprint 408 and an A833 to go back in the car....Since I don't have a lift.....Would it be easier for me to re install the K frame and then install the engine and trans?....Or try to do it as an assembly like the factory from below?....I have Dougs headers and manual steering and will be upgrading to 1.03 torsion bars....I don't have access to many helpers as it's mostly just me doing the work and whatever my wife can help out with which is willing to do as she's a true car girl....Is there some kind of dollies you might recommend? Not being a cheap *** but they would probably be of a one time use..I'm just about ready to retire with restoration work...Time to maintain drive and enjoy instead of hours in the garage .Thank you all for your input it's very much appreciated.... Eric
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Engine dolly.

This what you were thinking?

How I Made My Engine Dolly
 
Bad ***! What do the rods do...thread to some motor mounts?
 
72Duster440 said:
Looks like they go through 2 of the K frames mounting holes, possibly to help hold it on the dolly and align it as they lower the vehicle onto it?
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Correct. But, they’re kind of in the way. The better way to do it would have been to weld a nut on the pedestal and use a threaded rod. It does need alignment and support while moving around but being in the k-frame bolt holes it adds some complexity when mounting the assembly to the car frame.
Of course, like anything, it has room for improvement.


@pishta
 
I'm right there with you. Built some wheel cribs, removed the number, uses the mounting brackets to attach the bar, hooked the cherry picker to it and lifted it up high. Bought an hydraulic cart from HF. Dropped the entire K down with the motor.

Plan is to reinstall the same way from the bottom with the full suspension attached, headers and A833. Just need to make a support for the trans.

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I had my K sandblasted and powder coated. Only cost 120 bucks and done in a week. You'll thank me later.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. I thought of powder coat but the only place that offers it locally did the entire chassis on my 56 Chevy and lets just say. It’s an ok job. My progress so far. The engine compartment paint is a shade slightly off to the exterior of the car. But looks way better than the Dollar General spray can and deteriorated factory paint that was present before I got started. Thanks again. Eric

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Nothin fancy for me. Cherry picker, a set of 6" plastic ramps to elevate the rear and a 30 year old home-made cart. 30 minutes by myself (my preference) and it was bolted in.

Most NEVER go back to a topside install again.

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