NEED brake help on front!

[jrc4y4]

Hi all, I'm doing the front drums on my 72 Scamp, SBP. I got the drums pulled and ordered the new ones (along with many other items). The new drums appear to come without the wheel stud and the hub. Is the factory hub pressed or brazed in? I cannot figure it out. These pics are of what is on the car, and what O'Reilly had. The raising of the center area is different than what is on the car. Not sure these will even work so I did not buy them. Has anyone ran into this problem before? The drums cannot be turned so I'm not sure what the next step.

Note: I do NOT plan on doing disc brakes if I can help it. I will do discs when I convert to BBP which is not in the near future. Only will do discs if nothing else will work. Thanks for your all's help!

 

[6pk2goDemon]

This thread will help you to properly remove the hubs. RRR has a great tool idea in post #7 too....

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278545&highlight=swage

 

[Inertia]

If the drums are within tolerance, machining them is fairly reasonable. Midas or auto machine shops can re-surface them.. Saves a lotta work preserving the hub and studs servicabilty.

I machine drums for $12.50 ea

 

[jrc4y4]

Hi 6pack, I think I'd rather take to a machine shop than try that myself personally.

Inertia, there was some deep grinds that could not be cleaned off :/.

Also, it looks like the specs on the outside of the drum are different on mine than what the store got. The center area seems raised on mine whereas on the O'Reilly ones, the center seems more recessed. Also notice how on the backside there aren't two lips? Is this normal?

 

[BillGrissom]

I think the center area on your old drums is bulged up because that was the "swaging" the factory did, i.e. jam it on and distort the drum's metal. In earlier cars, they swaged the studs themselves, i.e. little pinches at the base of the stud. Swaging was just to secure the drum for easier assembly. I recall that later Chryslers used push washers to secure both drums and rotors. The wheel bolting up is what really secures the drum, as you see on the rears. I have removed hubs like yours by throwing the drum down flat in an abandoned parking lot until the hub falls thru. I once did so in the junkyard using a hammer to beat thru the studs, which sheared the swages off (65 Newport, needed the hub).

The single "snow lip" is common today, and probably all you can find. Ditto for webs on SBP drums. My 1965 10" drums have a coil spring that wraps around, for noise reduction, extra cooling, or both.

Treat your hubs tenderly, since the only replacements are junkyard. 1973+ have a better deal - buy a rotor, get a new hub.