So I picked up a 77 dodge truck with a running 400 in it. The block came with a eddie performer intake 1406 edie carb and truck headers. I was going to put it in my 79 dodge truck but I'm now thinking on building a 451 stroker. I know I need to find an oil pan for a car. Also I have a friend that has a bunch of engines that I will go through to find a 440 crank and main caps. I have a tunnel ram intake a was saving for it. I heard I will have to get custom pistons made. There is a guy here who has some earlier "906" heads that are redone with new valves and have been port and polished for 400 bucks. I was going to check them out this week. I want to just start collecting the big parts before I bring the engine to the machine shop. I was going to buy some shumacher headers and mounts because my car use to be a slant 6. I have an extra hood for my car for the tunnel ram to fit out of. I want to use it as a street car mostly but if I decide to go to the strip I can. Any advice would greatly be appreciated. Thanks
Need Help building a 400 for my 68 plymouth valiant
- Thread starter victa15
- Start date
-
famous bob
mopar misfit
why would u want the 440 main caps, and not use the 400 caps ?
I read that when you turn down the 440 crank to fit the 400 you can make it weak. I also read that you can line bore the 400 with the 440 main caps to take the 440 crank. This is all new territory for me so I'm a bit confused
My questions are:
Are the "906" heads worth it?
What kind of piston should I use to get the compression close to 9.1?
Do I use the 440 rods or 400 rods? (Im a little bit budgeted so this is going to take some time to do)
What other parts do I need to swap a big block into my abody?
Would I stock 727 with a shift kit work if I use it mostly for street?
I'm sure there will be more questions coming
Are the "906" heads worth it?
What kind of piston should I use to get the compression close to 9.1?
Do I use the 440 rods or 400 rods? (Im a little bit budgeted so this is going to take some time to do)
What other parts do I need to swap a big block into my abody?
Would I stock 727 with a shift kit work if I use it mostly for street?
I'm sure there will be more questions coming
Last edited:
I've turned a stock 440 forged crank down to 400 main size and hit it with 780 HP. You planning on going over 780 HP?
Nobody knows if the 906 heads are worth it until someone who knows what they are looking at inspects them.
Nobody knows what piston to use until the head is chosen and the combustion chamber size is noted.
There are pistons available so you can use either rod.
Other parts needed for the swap? Somebody else will have to answer that.
Stock 727? It depends upon how hard you hit the engine and the condition of the stock transmission.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
They cut the 440 crank mains down to 400 size so you can keep your 400 caps and I think you keep your 400 rods. It may be cheaper to get lighter aftermarket rods than rebuilding your stock ones. Did he install hardened seats in the 906's? The 906 didn't come with them but the 452's did. The BB will require a different radiator,hoses,fan,pullies,driveshaft,better axle and disc brakes if you want it to stop. The 727 should be ok with a performance parts rebuild.
Well I have the 452 heads on the 400. I was wondering if the 906s are better. I'm not sure if they do but can have them put in.
I'm hoping to get close to 450 to 500hp. I have a 8 1/4 limited slip with 3.23 gear in the back. Would that be strong enough or should I be looking for a something bigger?
I was going to get the 906s cause they the gone through and checked.
I have a friend with a rebuilt 727 that's stock. I was just going to put a shift kit in it.
I've converted the front to big bolt pattern manual disk. from a 76 dart.
Thanks for the information. I'm just trying to get educated on all of this from Mopar guys that know their stuff.
I'm hoping to get close to 450 to 500hp. I have a 8 1/4 limited slip with 3.23 gear in the back. Would that be strong enough or should I be looking for a something bigger?
I was going to get the 906s cause they the gone through and checked.
I have a friend with a rebuilt 727 that's stock. I was just going to put a shift kit in it.
I've converted the front to big bolt pattern manual disk. from a 76 dart.
Thanks for the information. I'm just trying to get educated on all of this from Mopar guys that know their stuff.
even low compression 400 has great torque, I guess this will go in a lite A body ( duster?)... with a deeper rear gear, it will give a lot of fun ( if not woreout!)... why not drop it in as is, and see how it goes.... hnt parts for t eh stroker deal as time, $, and knowledge allows??????
I was going to take it apart and inspect it. I still need to get a oil pan and fill tube, tranny, engine mounts, and headers. Its going in my 68 valiant. I know its pricey. But your right cause if it looks good I was going to put the ported 906 heads on it and see how it does for now than once I get the parts Than I will take it out again. I have tons of time so im just looking at my options and learning on what to do. Thanks
this 400 stroker deal has been out decades, so there has got to be tons of build info on the puter. B engine are great street motors, rev better than 440 (IMO) and tons of torque. or as said, rev like small block with more torque. I know there are many that will argue the point that a better build is a mag 5.9 and for many reasons and they are maybe right, BUT the B motor is not just another SB stuffed in an A body!!! that is the point..
weight? add aluminum intake, water pump, headers, and even heads, and the weight goes WAY down.
also, it will handle great with good front end parts, good alignment, and BIG ( oversized) front sway bar. I had an orig. 67 383 cuda once.
good luck/
weight? add aluminum intake, water pump, headers, and even heads, and the weight goes WAY down.
also, it will handle great with good front end parts, good alignment, and BIG ( oversized) front sway bar. I had an orig. 67 383 cuda once.
good luck/
-
