NEED HELP FAST! What is this on the wiring schematic? Wiring the car now

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Uhcoog1

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What is this on the wiring schematic? The circled item. And what does it do?

0C1C351C-4C41-4A7E-B5D6-2B252FA43338-1101-000002038446FB4A.jpg


I'm using an American Power Plus 20 harness to re-wire my car right now. I'm also needing a way to provide power to my megasquirt computer both with the key in the on position and the start position. Help?

Thanks!
Wade
 
Looks like the buzzer module/relay thingy thats usually mounted on the left side above the kick panel.
 
That annoying sound when you leave your door open with the key in the ignition.
 
It would look similar to this even though one tab connector is broken off.
 

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Yup. "Key in buzzer." Most of us were happy to test float them back then. They don't make very good anchors, but they do sink.

By the way, what year are we workin' on here? A shop manual would be much more complete.
 
I have a shop manual- why I'm not using it I don't know!!!

I actually
Called American autowire- super helpful and emailed me a small diagram for another problem.

Thanks for the help fellas!!
 
GEEZ, I made a horrid mistake, here. That item IS NOT only the key in buzzer, it's also your horn relay. The buzzer part of the equation is the end terminal, and is why it's broken off in the photo---to disable the buzzer and still allow the horn to operate

I've had about 5 hours sleep in the past 48 hours.
 
about getting power to fuel injection in the "run" and "start" key position. i just did a painless harness in my dart. i ran a jumper wire from the ign1 to ign2 on the back of the ignition switch plug then ran the ign2 wire to my MSD for a signal wire. im guessing you would have to do the same with your fuel injection but prob to a relay.
 
GEEZ, I made a horrid mistake, here. That item IS NOT only the key in buzzer, it's also your horn relay. The buzzer part of the equation is the end terminal, and is why it's broken off in the photo---to disable the buzzer and still allow the horn to operate

I've had about 5 hours sleep in the past 48 hours.

Your right. Even on his schematic it says Horn Regulator Buzzer but the magic marker covered it up some and I didn't see that right away.
The buzzer I have in the picture of is my old and probably the original one out of my orange demon. I replaced it with another one but still unplug it from time to time just to stop the buzzing.
 
about getting power to fuel injection in the "run" and "start" key position. i just did a painless harness in my dart. i ran a jumper wire from the ign1 to ign2 on the back of the ignition switch plug then ran the ign2 wire to my MSD for a signal wire. im guessing you would have to do the same with your fuel injection but prob to a relay.

I called American Autowire and spoke to Craig who recently did the same harness on a 71 duster. He was very helpful, and told me which wires went to which on the column harness. Also, he sent me a schematic for getting a wire to be hot when the key is in the run position and the start position. It is below.

**On my harness, the yellow is the horn - the brown is the correct wire to put in it's place in the below diagram to attach to the purple.**

I tested it this morning, and it works - although under zero load, the relay didn't want to drop the connection (and would keep the starter feed hot). When I added a load, it would drop it immediately and correctly (hopefully the starter relay has enough draw on this so that it will drop the connection in the relay). The output would stay on when cycled, which is what I need.

mopar_ignition_bypass_relay_zps952acca3.jpg
 
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