Need help for friend who is not going to be around long

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aengineguy

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I really need some suggestions. I am a Mopar guy, but my buddy has a 69 big block Chevelle and I am stumped. It has a Q-jet with automatic. When rolling about 40 mph in 3rd and you barely increase the throttle it starts stumbling and even loses all power until you back off the throttle a bit, not backfiring. The engine was recently went thru, he put a reman Q-jet on from Summit and new Pertronics ignition. I have been doing cars for 50 years, and cannot figure it out. He has Lou Gehrig's disease and is the point he cannot even talk now. We are going to Carlisle this weekend, kind of a bucket list thing. Appreciate any thoughts!
 
I really need some suggestions. I am a Mopar guy, but my buddy has a 69 big block Chevelle and I am stumped. It has a Q-jet with automatic. When rolling about 40 mph in 3rd and you barely increase the throttle it starts stumbling and even loses all power until you back off the throttle a bit, not backfiring. The engine was recently went thru, he put a reman Q-jet on from Summit and new Pertronics ignition. I have been doing cars for 50 years, and cannot figure it out. He has Lou Gehrig's disease and is the point he cannot even talk now. We are going to Carlisle this weekend, kind of a bucket list thing. Appreciate any thoughts!
Bad carb. Best to swap it out for a known good one and then head for Carlisle.
 
Not sure I agree at all. Could be a bad fuel pump or restriction in the fuel system causing poor delivery volume, something in the needle seat/ filter or maybe float level was "set" way too low. If you are carefully "feathering" the throttle I would not suspect acellerator pump. If you are suddenly giving it appreciable "pedal" then maybe so. Not enough pump shot

It's also possible an ignition problem IE not near enough spark power, but if it's as bad as you describe I'm surprised it starts well. So a spark cranking test, test the coil wire and examine the cap/ rotor

A bad cam lobe especially exhaust can also cause popping back through the carb under power.

I SURE hope you can get things rolling for him. I DO agree that in the interest of time and effort, rounding up another carb might be easiest.
 
I agree with the fuel pump. I've had many that will give me idle or 35mph but then sputter at higher speeds, when the demand for more fuel is there.
 
I really need some suggestions. I am a Mopar guy, but my buddy has a 69 big block Chevelle and I am stumped. It has a Q-jet with automatic. When rolling about 40 mph in 3rd and you barely increase the throttle it starts stumbling and even loses all power until you back off the throttle a bit, not backfiring. The engine was recently went thru, he put a reman Q-jet on from Summit and new Pertronics ignition. I have been doing cars for 50 years, and cannot figure it out. He has Lou Gehrig's disease and is the point he cannot even talk now. We are going to Carlisle this weekend, kind of a bucket list thing. Appreciate any thoughts!

Man I feel for you.... Unless he can overcome what I have seen 2 people go through with the disease, a clock is not his friend. So be steadfast in finding the problem. If you suspect the carb find someone who will put it on their vehicle or maybe borrow a known good one.... But you can also make quick work of checking fuel pressure and all the other basic gearhead steps. It's tough to give an answer with much accuracy and if you were near me I would be more than glad to help get you in a direction......

JW
 
Man I seem to think that you can lift the top off the Q jet and clean it out if need be. On the other hand, throw a spare carb on and see what it does...man I used to give Q jets away for free..
 
When rolling about 40 mph in 3rd and you barely increase the throttle it starts stumbling and even loses all power until you back off the throttle a bit, not backfiring.
If I read that right, this will be at 1800 or so rpm, right.
I would bet a dollar you are cruising with the throttle very near to closed.
That would be way down on the transfers, with the Idle mixture screws nearly falling out.
If I am right;
The reason for that would be
a preponderance of low speed torque.
When driving in this mode the engine will pull air around the throttle blades, sometimes drying up the transfers. Then when you ever so slightly tip in the throttles, the transfers got nothing to give. and predictably you get a stumble or stall.
The cure is to give some torque away by retarding the ignition timing. This will cause the engine to drive deeper into the carb, with more throttle opening, keeping the transfers alive.
Disconnect the vacuum advance and roadtest it. If it improves then, I'm probably right. Check your timing, in Neutral, at cruising rpm with the Vcan included. Then at same rpm, recheck it with the V-can disabled. The difference should be 12 to 20 degrees, and the Mechanical, IMO should be 24* or less on a powerful engine with a low-stall TC.
OR
just try it in Second gear at 40 mph, that will require a different throttle opening. If bog-gone, then I am right...... I think..........lol.
 
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I'll try to help.
Might seem odd but does the car have points? I had a similar situation where the condenser was bad a $3.00 part was running but rich black smoke and surging on load. I rebuilt carb. No change, then new fuel pump no change, new generator no change. New points, no change
New condenser runs better than new! Couldn't go past 65 without hesitating and stumble, new condenser runs 109 mph without hesitation.
 
Check the petronics!
Just read that that was my next move could be bad. Had same issue after changing from points... petronics went bad...
 
Hi there. First thing is to remove the fuel line at the carb. then the big 1" nut and replace the little fuel filter in there. Common problem on Q jets back in the day. Less than a $5.00 fit. Be very careful when use re-start the big nut by hand only than just snug up with the 1" wrench.
 
Start with the simple test 1-check fuel filter 2- check for accelerator pump shot. With the engine off, remove air filter . Open the choke blade, look down the primaries, slowly open the throttle and look for pump squirting gas. Go from there.
 
Hi there. First thing is to remove the fuel line at the carb. then the big 1" nut and replace the little fuel filter in there. Common problem on Q jets back in the day. Less than a $5.00 fit. Be very careful when use re-start the big nut by hand only than just snug up with the 1" wrench.
LOL I almost suggested that ESPECIALLY since it is a so called "rebuild"
 
Look to see what fuel filter it has. If it has an external one AND the small filter at the inlet to the carburetor, remove the one in the fuel inlet of the carburetor. That's the filter behind the 1" fitting at the caburetor. Most times, both filters are too much for the mechanical pump to overcome. ESPECIALLY if the one inside the fuel inlet is the stupid compressed brass filter.
 
If it cruises ok, & then you barely increase the throttle & it stumbles, then I doubt the problem is fuel pump or filter related.
It is probably a power piston problem. The piston should lift up under load bringing the power step [ rich ] of the metering rods into operation. In other words, there is no enrichment under load. Wrong pri jets or rods can also cause this. Or, did they forget to install the spring under the piston....

Removing the air horn will reveal the piston & should be checked out as above etc, make sure it moves freely up & down.
 
Thanks to all for your thoughts...the car was doing the same thing before replacing with a "new in box" pertronix. The engine is totally stock and the new dist. does not have vacuum advance, just one he bought as a spare. I have been thru a hundred Q-Jets and had already checked all the suggested items, pump shot, pump spring, metering rods and piston, etc., etc. My next step which I have not done was to test fuel pressure. It does have a primary filter that is glass, that at idle is flowing good, but have not removed the sintered bronze one at carb inlet yet, will try. It is not a bog, increase throttle from just over cracked at around 40 will cause a surge and sputter and more gas, even to the floor will totally kill power. When lifted, power will come back on. The engine does not die. There is no backfire and timing is dead on.
 
Have you tried locking out the secondaries to see how it behaves on the primary side only? A BBC should run very well at 70+ on primary only. If it runs well on the primaries only your problem will be easier to diagnose. As others have said it may need a known good carb because commercially rebuilt Qjet are a crap shoot at best. They are usually done with mismatched parts and very rarely work well.
Good luck and take care of your friend.
Jerry
 
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Thanks to all for your thoughts...the car was doing the same thing before replacing with a "new in box" pertronix. The engine is totally stock and the new dist. does not have vacuum advance, just one he bought as a spare. I have been thru a hundred Q-Jets and had already checked all the suggested items, pump shot, pump spring, metering rods and piston, etc., etc. My next step which I have not done was to test fuel pressure. It does have a primary filter that is glass, that at idle is flowing good, but have not removed the sintered bronze one at carb inlet yet, will try. It is not a bog, increase throttle from just over cracked at around 40 will cause a surge and sputter and more gas, even to the floor will totally kill power. When lifted, power will come back on. The engine does not die. There is no backfire and timing is dead on.

Ok, this was a very impotant piece of information. These cars were timed differently. I was just very recently involved with a friend's numbers matching 70 SS454 Chevelle restoration. That car was timed off manifold vacuum going to the distributor. This can make a very big difference in ultimate driveability since the manifold vacuum pulls the vacuum canister completely advanced at idle, so it affects the initial timing setting. We had the sho nuff GM factory assembly manual on that car and I remember that. It thew us for a loop as we wee trying to time the car conventionally until I got the bright idea to read the instructions. We also used a Pertronix ignition, but we used one with a vacuum advance, because the owner wanted improved performance, but wanted to remain as stock appearing as possible. So, this "could" be an issue.
 
That Summit reman carb is junk. Ask me how I know? Take one apart you will find bent rods ,wrong gaskets ect. I took one apart to find the throttle base thick gasket wouldn't let the secondaries open the primary metering rods were bent also. Find a known good carb and you will make your friend happy. Wish I had one to send to you.
 
If it cruises ok, & then you barely increase the throttle & it stumbles, then I doubt the problem is fuel pump or filter related.
It is probably a power piston problem. The piston should lift up under load bringing the power step [ rich ] of the metering rods into operation. In other words, there is no enrichment under load. Wrong pri jets or rods can also cause this. Or, did they forget to install the spring under the piston....

Removing the air horn will reveal the piston & should be checked out as above etc, make sure it moves freely up & down.
U don’t need to remove the air horn to check the power piston/metering rods. Should be able to push it down with the engine off. Use a flat blade screw driver through the pipe and see if it compresses down. It should pop back up. If it doesn’t u can free it up with needle nose pliers or a pic. May need some spray lube. Kim
 
If the rods are bent it won't work properly. The carb needs to come off and at least be checked for proper throttle blade opening. It sounds like it's going severely lean. I know there's a mod for opening up the air /fuel mix screws and it really helps idle /low speed character . IIRC correctly the mix holes under the screws need to be .080 most are no where near that. Also check the adj on the secondary air valve. I had one of these Summit reman carbs, it was junk. I finally gave up and bought a Holley 750 Brawler vac secondary and all is good.
 
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