Need help getting my motor running

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jrg7198

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Hey FABO members new meme we hear I’m in desperate need of help I have. 74 dodge dart that I’m trying to get running but I don’t know anything about miring or electrical this is all I know so far. The key does crank the motor when there is a battery connected however I was not getting spark now I have a brand new distributor and coil to be installed but I have no idea how to wire it up properly to get started I know it needs an ecm and a ballast resistor as well *** the harnes for that because the previous owner installed an aftermarket wiring harness in it but it’s all over the place and I’m looking for someone who would be willing to help a new mopar enthusiast out as this is my first ever mopar I live in the San Fernando valley of Southern California if anyone can help in anyway I am willing to accept any and all best way to contact me is thru Instagram @jes.rg or by email [email protected] or simply reply to this thread please I’m desperate to get this motor running
 
Jump over to mymopar.com and download the service manual for your car. They should have that one, but I'm not 100% sure. That way, you'll have the manual and it does include wiring diagrams.
 
did you ever figure out what wiring harness you have in the car?

pictures would help greatly here. to see what you're working with.
 
junkyardhero said:
did you ever figure out what wiring harness you have in the car?

pictures would help greatly here. to see what you're working with.
Click to expand...
Not sure the brand but it upgrades to a new fuse box and the wires were labeled when they were new I pretty much need to know what wires go where
 
jrg7198 said:
Not sure the brand but it upgrades to a new fuse box and the wires were labeled when they were new I pretty much need to know what wires go where
Click to expand...
If this is an aftermarket harness and it sounds like it is, there's no way for us to know that, unless you can tell us exactly which harness you have, like a brand and a prat number.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Jump over to mymopar.com and download the service manual for your car. They should have that one, but I'm not 100% sure. That way, you'll have the manual and it does include wiring diagrams.
Click to expand...
The newest is 73 and the wiring is not quite right. I have a 74 manual he can get from me
 
jrg7198 said:
Not sure the brand but it upgrades to a new fuse box and the wires were labeled when they were new I pretty much need to know what wires go where
Click to expand...
PHOTOS WOULD HELP, learn to take nice clear closeups and learn to crop them to show the section you want.

The "basics" are that there are TWO outputs from the ignition switch into the engine bay. One is "IGN1" which is the "run" line, that is, powered with the key in the "run" position. THAT GOES DEAD when the key is in "start."

The ignition is powered in "start" by IGN2 which feeds full power to the coil in order to provide a hot spark.

Frankly if you have "nothing" now, I would start out with a "ready to run" distributor also known as "Skip White" and a few other names. This is a breakerless, import, all in one setup that only needs a coil to get you going
 
Welcome to the site. Members here are the best. 67Dart273 and others are very knowledgeable. Here's a basic diagram that might help but keep in mind ,I'm not the expert. I think yours is the dual ballast but the single ballast works as well.As said, identify your Ignition 1 & 2 wires and you'll be off to a good start. Oh, this is with the factory distributer if that's what you have.

Electronic ignition dual ballast.jpg


Ignition_System_4pin.jpg
 
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alot of good help here. just tossing in my 2 cents for future reference... One thing that can cause No Spark is "VOLTAGE DROP WHILE CRANKING", it's often overlooked and has bit my in the a55 more that once.
I recommend at least a 850 cc amp battery & upgrade the gauge of the positive cable to the starter. Clean or replace every single wire connector on the motor harness, also every wire that connects to the ignition switch and firewall bulkhead plug. ground cable and straps need to be good too. Personally i'd do the basics before rewiring a bunch of stuff, having said that, i've done upgrades too
 
Unfortunately, "all of this" is a moot point if he has an aftermarket harness.
 
Some, most, or maybe all the aftermarket harnesses don't have the Ign. 2 circuit. So, if running a ballast, the ignition isn't getting a full 12 volts while cranking. If this is indeed the case, then get a 12 volt coil that doesn't require the ballast.
 
408 swinger said:
Some, most, or maybe all the aftermarket harnesses don't have the Ign. 2 circuit. So, if running a ballast, the ignition isn't getting a full 12 volts while cranking. If this is indeed the case, then get a 12 volt coil that doesn't require the ballast.
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That will not fix it. The "run" wire goes dead during cranking. You either have to run the wire separately yourself from the IGN2 switch contact to the coil +, or else jumper the two switch terminals together and then run an ignition with no ballast
 
67Dart273 said:
That will not fix it. The "run" wire goes dead during cranking. You either have to run the wire separately yourself from the IGN2 switch contact to the coil +, or else jumper the two switch terminals together and then run an ignition with no ballast
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Agree with what you're saying, as far as factory Chrysler wiring goes. I was speaking of GM based aftermarket harnesses.
 
408 swinger said:
Agree with what you're saying, as far as factory Chrysler wiring goes. I was speaking of GM based aftermarket harnesses.
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We have yet to know what he has so, it's a crap shoot until then. Pretty typical for around here.
 
www.forabodiesonly.com

Wiring

Hey so I’m new to classic cars but not new to cars and I have no idea how to wire up a classic engine so I have a 318 LA small block and I got it with the distributor off and alternator off and I have no idea how to wire any of it I don’t know where what goes where so if someone could please...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

evidently it's been on going for several months...
 
408 swinger said:
Agree with what you're saying, as far as factory Chrysler wiring goes. I was speaking of GM based aftermarket harnesses.
Click to expand...
That does not matter. This is because of the ignition switch itself. The switch drops power output from the "run" contact as well as the accessory contact when twisted to start. There are two contacts "live" in the start position. One of course is "start" (normally yellow) and the other is IGN2, the normally brown bypass circuit. There are only 4 ways to deal with this that I know of.....
1....If you have both wires extended, connect IGN1 and IGN2
2....If not, connect the contacts together right at the switch
3....Use some sort of trick diodes/ relay lash up
4.....If you have a hotrod or other swap, use a different type ignition switch such as a so called "universal" switch.
 
67Dart273 said:
That does not matter. This is because of the ignition switch itself. The switch drops power output from the "run" contact as well as the accessory contact when twisted to start. There are two contacts "live" in the start position. One of course is "start" (normally yellow) and the other is IGN2, the normally brown bypass circuit. There are only 4 ways to deal with this that I know of.....
1....If you have both wires extended, connect IGN1 and IGN2
2....If not, connect the contacts together right at the switch
3....Use some sort of trick diodes/ relay lash up
4.....If you have a hotrod or other swap, use a different type ignition switch such as a so called "universal" switch.
Click to expand...
Yes. True. I wasn't thinking clearly. I was thinking aftermarket switch as well. If he's using factory switch, absolutely correct.
 
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