Need Help Hooking Up This distributor

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cosgig

MoBro Inc.
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Howdy people, old cosgig here. I’m nearing the start up point on the little convertible, and instead of using the old points distributor, I thought I would throw this one in. It’s one of those Chinese electronic 2 wire distributors, and it’s brand new, but I’m not sure how to hook it up. It was in a running parts car I bought so I know it works, but it was a long time ago that I removed it. It has one black and one red wire, shouldn’t be too hard, but I do t want to fry anything out this close to start up. Anybody running one of these that can give me the lowdown? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Geof

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Is it a stand alone dist or is it like the oe mopar and needs a controle box to work.
 
Red to coil positive black to coil negative.
 
Is it a stand alone dist or is it like the oe mopar and needs a controle box to work.

It’s a stand alone unit, there’s a little brain box on the side of it. I probably made a diagram of how it hooked up, but lord knows where that even is!
 
Well now, that sounds like something I can handle chop chop!! Thanks Rob, checks in the mail!

You're most certainly welcome. Now, those distributors work best with an E coil. They'll work with a standard coil, but they fire a lot hotter with the e coil they were designed to run.
 
It's set up like a cheapo HEI. I believe red and black both to the coil. Then theres a feed from ign sw hot to the plus side of the coil. No ballast resistor, plug those 2 wires together. I could be wrong but prob something like this.

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Have one in a 88 dodge d250 pick up.....as said...red to plus side of coil....black to negative....

plus side of coil needs 12 volts......take two wires off ballast resistor....tie them together then run that wire to plus side of coil.....now you have 12 volts at the coil...dont use ballast resistor....easy
 
Have one in a 88 dodge d250 pick up.....as said...red to plus side of coil....black to negative....

plus side of coil needs 12 volts......take two wires off ballast resistor....tie them together then run that wire to plus side of coil.....now you have 12 volts at the coil...dont use ballast resistor....easy

That’s exactly what I’m going to do. I appreciate all of the responses here, and I have a hotter coil that was on the same parts car with this distributor, if I can find it around here somewhere, I’ll use that! Thanks again people, you’ve all helped a bunch!
 
Jump the ballast resistor also if you want to keep the look.
 
One last question...what happens to the wire coming from the loom that used to go to the coil?
 
One last question...what happens to the wire coming from the loom that used to go to the coil?

The hot wire that goes to the coil positive? It goes to coil positive. lol
 
I’m installing the same distributor on a previous points system. I read that my existing coil may be too small and am looking at upgrading but can’t find any info as to what size coil. I’d prefer to go with the round can type unless that’s a stupid idea.?

Currently everything is hooked up to the existing coil and it won’t fire. I’ve put a timing light on and while cranking it’s not getting any spark? Would that be the small coil issue?
 
I’m installing the same distributor on a previous points system. I read that my existing coil may be too small and am looking at upgrading but can’t find any info as to what size coil. I’d prefer to go with the round can type unless that’s a stupid idea.?

Currently everything is hooked up to the existing coil and it won’t fire. I’ve put a timing light on and while cranking it’s not getting any spark? Would that be the small coil issue?
See post #8
 
See post #8
I did read post 8. Obviously the 50k coil is enough. What else is plenty enough or too much. Is the stock coil not strong enough? Should I at least be getting some spark from the stock coil, enough to show up on the timing light?
 
I did read post 8. Obviously the 50k coil is enough. What else is plenty enough or too much. Is the stock coil not strong enough? Should I at least be getting some spark from the stock coil, enough to show up on the timing light?
The stock coil can be tested for spark without the distributor, right out the top. But no. I dont believe its strong enough either.
Canister coils contain oil. In my experience they run hotter, and dont do as well as an e core when run in a constant 12v situation with a ready to run. I would recommend the coil in post 8, as it even comes with a wiring harness and mounting hardware. So. The stock coil doesnt sound like its firing at all, and it's not adequate regardless. You can stick a plug right on the coil wire to check for spark. Has to be grounded. And dont shock yourself.
 
same piece...love it. super simple and a $9 replacement module.
MSD Blaster 2 coil.
Fires off so quick I barely hear the starter.
While your at it...upgrade the lighting and charging systems and ditch the VReg.
Really cleans up the firewall:thumbsup:
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