Need Help To Remove Inner Bearing

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edb_app

edb_app

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Seattle, WA
Started to change out my bearings today and came across the metal piece that protects the inner bearing. It will not come out for nothing. Does anyone know a way to do this? Do I need to replace it? Any response would be great. I will be trying different things until someone helps.

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Turn the hub over and insert a long HD punch along the edge of the bearing race. Use big hammer or 5lb sledge and strike around the edge. You might also be able to use a cutoff wheel to score the race and bust it out.

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That's the bearing race and needs to be replaced at the same time as the bearing itself, it's what the bearing rollers run against. Yes it will be tight as it is an interference fit so it doesn't move around. When using a punch to tap it out move the punch to a different spot 180 deg from the last hit otherwise you'll jam it and have a hell of a time. Installation of the new race should be done with a hydraulic press not hammer and punch.

Terry
 
too bad you are in kent I would say come on over and it would take 5min. demon seed is correct but in a pinch it can be done carefully with a punch, I woulnd recommend it though.
 
res1vw21 said:
too bad you are in kent I would say come on over and it would take 5min. demon seed is correct but in a pinch it can be done carefully with a punch, I woulnd recommend it though.
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I can always take a drive!!!! Just let me know when... there is no way I can get it out, I have tried everything. The passenger side one didn't look bad... so I left that one... but the drivers side is still grinding.
 
well im home tonight or tomorrow after 12. I don't have a press but I have put a few of them in
 
Never tried this but I heard that if you weld a bead completely around the middle of the tapered surface, turn the hub over and wait about ten minutes, the race will just fall out after the weld cools and contracts the race.

Anyone ever try this?
 
res1vw21 said:
well im home tonight or tomorrow after 12. I don't have a press but I have put a few of them in
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If you're going to punch her back in grab a hockey stick and cut a foot off it. It's really dense and solid wood, the best is 1" OD solid nylon rod, but not as easy to find. LOL

Terry
 
Do you have access to an air chisel ? A couple of blips should rattle it loose. Maybe a friendly mechanical shop or machine shop near you.......carry the hub in and :smile: and ask :thumbup:
 
demon seed said:
If you're going to punch her back in grab a hockey stick and cut a foot off it. It's really dense and solid wood, the best is 1" OD solid nylon rod, but not as easy to find. LOL

Terry
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Yep I have a section of wood from our deck it's super dense and works bout the same.
 
Use the old race to tap on to get the new one started squarely in the hole. If you use a "punch" to drive the new bearing race down to seat tightly, make sure you use a brass drift (punch). It is softer metal and won't scar or nick the race.
 
Had the same problem. Tried for four hours using punches, chisels, sockets....everythig I could think of, and nothing worked. I simply could not get anything to grab onto the very tiny lip. Then I tried that trick with running a weld bead around the inside of the race. It fell out onto the floor with the first tap. The weld bead shrinks when it cools and breaks the friction fit. Plus, the weld bead gives you something to tap on. I was done with both in 10 minutes. Use a pretty thick bead, and run it completey around the race. Of course, be careful not to weld the race to the hub!
 
You can also cut a couple of notches along the length of the bearing race with a die grinder. The races are heat-treated and brittle, with the grooves cut in them they will break into pieces when you use the punch from behind. Just be sure to wear your safety glasses. (Choice #2 if you can't try the weld bead trick)
 
After 4 years I'd like to think they got it fixed.
 
LOL Rusty.......Didn't even catch it till your post. Now I feel as bad as the guy with the inner bearing thingy problem:)
 
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