Need recommendation for a Carb for better MPG!

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This is some pretty great perspective, and you are spot on! I didn't think of it quite like this but also thought if I could get maybe 3-5 more mpg I wouldn't have to stop for gas so much with our 16 gal. tanks. My commutes are 60 miles a day. I am very good at driving in an efficient way so I know my 340 can do better. Thank You!
There's another way to look at some mods, say for eg. Headers and duals. You could end up spend big money doing this mod from a purely mpg perspective might not be worth it, but if say your looking for some performance, could be thought of a performance mod that one day may pay for itself, same with OD. OD is more of a performance mod because it allows you run deeper gears.

But if it is to purely to save money be careful how much you spend.
 
My commutes are 60 miles a day. I am very good at driving in an efficient way so I know my 340 can do better. Thank You!
60 miles a day in a 340 car!
Friend, you need a Smartcar.
Or,
Part-1
pull the top end off that 340, including the cam. and bolt on a 318 top end/cam .
I did that in somewhere in the early to mid 70s. That is still my favorite all time engine, and it was just slapped together with left-over parts. I even left the 2bbl on it!.
I'm kidding;
with today's gas that engine would detonate itself to death. But with alloy heads, I wonder.
When people asked, I popped the hood and showed them my Hi-compression big-bore 318. Man you should have heard that thing.
The 318 cam, is not the bad-guy in that 318 engine.
Rather, the bad-guy is the extremely low cylinder pressure.
Would I build a hi-compression 340 with a 318 cam today?
Well hang on a sec, what would be the End-goal?
For the right goal, you bet your bippy I would.
But I think I would change the cam-specs just a lil.

The big deal for fuel economy, in our old carbureted V8s, is to
1) get the rpm down, yet it have adequate Ignition timing.
2) get rid of uncontrolled cruise rpm activity, in the intake ,
3) re-engineer the combustion chamber
4) make the power-extraction cycle as long as you dare.
5) increase the cylinder pressure
318 cars
got some of that down pat. But the smoggers have lousy chambers and even lousier cylinder pressure. Both of which can be fixed. But at what cost?
Part-2
But hang on, the Hi-compression 340s already had a handle on cylinder pressure. Get rid of that 340 cam, fit an appropriate alloy head by re-adjusting the Quench and Piston to Head clearance, and, Badaboom, yur as good as set.
Yes without headers, you likely will loose Absolute power.
But with careful parts selection including headers, you might get most of it back. But, the bottom end rpm, might go the other way with more torque, just what you need to run a hiway gear.
The biggest deal for fuel economy is to reduce the cruise-rpm. But if that gets the intake full of reversion and/or EGR, you cannot control the AFR, and your economy can actually get worse.
Plus, you know, 2.45 gears suck on take off.
So it would seem that just installing a hi-way gear into a car with a high-overlap cam and headers, is NOT the answer; and I found that out in spades. So, for economy without a huge loss in performance, you gotta co-ordinate your choices.
For sure, getting the Revs down is priority #1.
But if it makes your engine labor, getting up to speed, well that is negative economy. So then, whatever percentage rear gear you take out, you need to put that back in the transmission, just to break even.
Usually, this requires another gear in the trans.
But you can get some of that low-rpm torque back, by increasing the Cylinder pressure. The 340 cam has a not-so-modest Ica of about 64*, going to 58, might get you an increase in pressure of up to say 12psi., which could be good or bad depending on what you start with.
But the 318 cam has an Ica around 48* which in an iron headed early 340, is gonna end up with way too much pressure for pump gas.
Whereas, in my case, I have run up to 195psi, still on 87E10. and that's with a 367 engine. I see no good reason that this cannot be done with a shorter stroke 340.
Thus, worrying about too much pressure is a thing of the past. However we still have two other hurdles, namely: quench and piston to head contact. This is where choosing compatible parts come in, or a lil milling of the pistons. But that's no deal breaker.
Finally, after the finished chamber is known, then you can choose a camshaft, with an Ica that supports all your hard work, yet gives you adequate power for your application. And there are dozens of cams to choose from these days, so success is virtually guaranteed.
Since headers are gonna be needed to pick up the power potential back towards 340 power, a 4bbl is also a requirement, as is a 4bbl. While the 340 pkgs may not be ideal for this application, you already have them, and really, they are not that far off the mark. Thus your cost so far are; the alloy heads, maybe a cam, and whatever it costs to fit your pistons, assuming they are up out of the holes too near to the closed-chamber heads.
Now;
At 60 miles per day, 300 miles a week, 50 weeks a year, say 15000 miles a year, you'll have those heads paid for in less than two years, just in the cost of the fuel. That's what I figured for mine.... altho I was only travelling 50 miles a day plus at least 50>100 more every weekend, and in winter, I put a 318 under the hood. I still paid for those Edelbrocks. in two years..
But you know,
if you're using this car just for commuting, why does it currently have a 6000 rpm cam in it? How often are you over even 5000? How about over 4500?
See, the factory 318 cam powerpeaks at around 4200, and if you spring it right, mine goes over 5000.
Admittedly there is not much power over 4500, but in a 340 with bigger ports and valves, where will the new powerpeak be? But wait, who says we have to run a 318 cam? there are lots of better than that cams, available, that also do not have a ton of overlap. It's just a matter of choosing the right one and installing it where she likes it.
Ok wait
Part-3
If your car has headers and a stock type cam, sporting just 44* of overlap, you can kill that overlap, with log manifolds. That will instantly clean up the intake, now making the 104* power-stroke the bad guy. But you can fix that by retarding the cam. Sure that will chew up pressure, but at steady-state cruising with a nearly closed throttle, we don't care. And besides the early 340s already had a preponderance of pressure. Giving up 8> 12 psi is no big deal for a street-340, which rarely gets past Second gear at WOT, cuz of the speeding issue. So then, IMO, that is a valid and super cheap option. and if you already don't have headers, yur already almost there!
With overlap killed, your fuel-economy will automatically increase. Add a tune and a bunch of cruise-timing , and watch what happens. But hey, why stop there? With the intake cleaned up, and the powerstroke stretched out, now's the time to stick in those hiway gears.
__________________________________________________________________
As for me, I opted for a deep-low manual trans, an add-on overdrive, gears for 65= 2240, and a modest 223/230/110 cam, that was 270/276/53overlap advertised. But I installed it for 108*Powerstroke and a 48 effective overlap, all with just 61* Ica, cuz the engine already had a preponderance of pressure.
I could tell you that this combo once achieved 32 mpg US on a certain day-trip, but if I did, at least two guys here will tell you that's impossible. I'll tell you the same thing I told them, namely; Just cuz you can't do it, does not mean that it cannot be done.
The thing is, with that same cam, and with no other changes except for the removal of gas-mizer-tuned Holly 600, in favor of a 750, this car went 106 in the quarter, at least 6>8 mph faster than any stock 340 ever went. So, Most guys will call that Power with Economy but think about it. Really, at 32mpg, it's really Economy with Power, lol.
I ran that combo for ~4 years until the cam dropped lobes.
 
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Just my 2 cents.

Look for a metering rod that is slightly large on the fat part and same diameter on thin part. That will help lean out the carb in high vacuum situations. Run it lean and if running a cvac adv distributor get the timing up. Make sure it doesn't surge or feel like it's straining at cruise.

If you have access to an AFR meter, even better to try and get the numbers up at cruise. At least you'd know if it was getting outside of 15.5-16 or so.
 
Rusty isn't stirring up anything but rather speaking from experience. Instead of attacking people and showing your ignorance at times you need to read more and post less. Just a helpful tip.
Sir, I understand what you're saying. It's just that because RRR or anyone else for that matter didn't have the experience with the gas mileage of the 318's doesn't mean that it didn't happen to me. Maybe I took it wrong but it sounded too me that RRR was saying that I didn't know what I was talking about or it didn't happen but unfortunately it did. When I went to trade my 1998 dodge pickup in the ford dealership really didn't want it because of its poor resale value due to transmission failures that dodge truck owners were experiencing at the time, I finally got $6400 for my 1998 D150, with no rust,dents scratches and no transmission issues.
 
17 mpg is pretty good for a 340.
Best mileage I ever got was with a 63 dart with a slant and 3 on the tree, 31 mpg on the highway. 18 mpg 71 440 Charger.
 
I have a stupid but simple solution, but it only works on my Mopars. Whenever they get low on gas I fill them. Whatever the gas price is at the time, I pay it. If needed, I skimp on eating.
 
I have a stupid but simple solution, but it only works on my Mopars. Whenever they get low on gas I fill them. Whatever the gas price is at the time, I pay it. If needed, I skimp on eating.
That was me before I retired.
But now, my pension only pays the basics, and
my wife squanders the half of hers,
leaving the other half for groceries, and
Nothing for me.
Needless to say my teeth are falling out, cuz there's no money for that, and the car only moves when there's nothing left to eat.
What little savings I have, goes to inflation.
and yes, I am losing weight. One day soon, I will be back at what I was, at graduation.
And yes, I drive slower now, for economic reasons, namely; at 55 my car gets an easy 2mpgs better than at 65, and should an accident be imminent, I have over 15% more time/distance for evasive action, cuz if I crash the car I cannot afford to replace it, and it's a 15mile walk to the grocery store.
So you know, at 71, I'm not as comfortable as you, and you flaunting it, doesn't make me feel any better about it. But yakno, I still got my health; I mean besides my teeth falling out.............
Oh hey, I'm not complaining, nor ranting, nor accusing, nor anything; I'm jus saying.
I am just a sojourner in this World, passing thru it; for just a wisp of time I am trapped in this flesh and bone covering, and on my way to my eternal home, at the end of this present age. That's just the way it has to be. For rich or for poor, it matters not to me; for in this world, living is a temporary thing.
Enjoy it while you can.
 
I have a stupid but simple solution, but it only works on my Mopars. Whenever they get low on gas I fill them. Whatever the gas price is at the time, I pay it. If needed, I skimp on eating.
:rofl:
 
Then that right there is the telling point of your experience. None. The 318 has always been a good mileage motor. The small bore lends itself well in that arena. I can tell first hand you don't know what's goin on here.
Yeah so, there you go again, bringing out the big hammer of insults.
As regards post 25
The man just told you his experiences.
How do you justify calling a man a liar for recounting his experiences, never mind insulting him, and then calling his intellect into question.
You're a hard-hearted man......... IMO
 
Suggestions to spend thousands to get an extra 1-2 MPG on a car that likely gets limited miles on it. Doesn't make a lots of economic sense to me.

Work on the cheap/free tune up things - metering rod, more advance at cruise, etc to find those small incremental improvements
 
You're not going to get that from a 340. Really, you don't want to either.
Maybe going downhill, he may get that. My Dart in my photo gets around 14 on the highway. 17 would be a blessing for me. If you didn't know, all 340's were designed to be race motors, not grocery haulers. The 340 in my van gets 10 on a good day.
 
A pick up to a 5th avenue is apples to oranges. The Lean Burn engines were pretty efficient. Those cars also ran a low rear gear and a lock up torque converter. The pick ups of that era didn't have any of that.
I had a 86' 5th Ave, I bought new that got around 27 miles to the gal. as you say, but it also had the roller cam. It was scary sometimes, while traveling, I would look down at my speedometer and going over 90 and not feeling it at all. Great car, until my EX, tour it up (interior). I should have kept the car and got rid of her.
 
There's another way to look at some mods, say for eg. Headers and duals. You could end up spend big money doing this mod from a purely mpg perspective might not be worth it, but if say your looking for some performance, could be thought of a performance mod that one day may pay for itself, same with OD. OD is more of a performance mod because it allows you run deeper gears.

But if it is to purely to save money be careful how much you spend.
I always heard over-drives did not work well on performance cars. They broke often.
 
I can't see why that isn't possible as I have a 410 in an A body .
Trick Flow heads, 11 to 1 comp forged pistons and crank, 238/242 @ 50 with 610 lift and 3.91 diff ratio and on a recent trip of 600klms (about 370 miles) I got 23mpg.
It is a 5 speed manual with 28 inch tyres and does 110kph(75mph) at 2400 rpm.
Yes I know our imperial gallon is slightly larger than your US gallon but my 318 auto charger that was in convoy with me only achieved 18 mpg and it is a low milage survivor car with about 55000 miles on it and is 51 years young.
With a proper tune and a decent ignition system those numbers are achievable!
 
Maybe going downhill, he may get that. My Dart in my photo gets around 14 on the highway. 17 would be a blessing for me. If you didn't know, all 340's were designed to be race motors, not grocery haulers. The 340 in my van gets 10 on a good day.

With the right carb, tune, and gears 20+ mpg is achievable with a 340. I've done it, steady highway cruising for 200 to 300 miles at a time. A van has such poor aerodynamics, like a pickup, it is very hard to get good mpg. High Performance itself does not mean poor mpg. Cars are set up for different purposes. If you have a drag racer with low gears, that is one choice and no, mpg will not be your thing. The 4.10 gears were only in the Barracuda a month or two. I could not stand them, plus I could not get any traction. My Barracuda was set up as a high speed cruiser/handling car, along with the good aerodynamics, 4 speed, and higher gears, 20+ mpg came as a bonus. My 383 automatic transmission Barracuda would get 17 to 18 mpg if I tried, or on a trip.
 
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I always heard over-drives did not work well on performance cars. They broke often.
Guess depends how you go about it. But my point was the OD trans was mainly a performance mod in itself, main reason for it is to be able to run Deeper gears (performance) while still having a high gear for cruising instead of just running a high gear.
 
I haven't had any personal experience with a aftermarket EFI set up, but wouldn't something like that be the way to go? I've seen the self tuning units being used on garage squad and other shows and I've read some things about them. I don't remember the name of them but I do remember that it wasn't a holley. They all claim faster starting, improved performance and mileage and the fact that they are self tuning would make it worth checking on I would think.
 
I haven't had any personal experience with a aftermarket EFI set up, but wouldn't something like that be the way to go? I've seen the self tuning units being used on garage squad and other shows and I've read some things about them. I don't remember the name of them but I do remember that it wasn't a holley. They all claim faster starting, improved performance and mileage and the fact that they are self tuning would make it worth checking on I would think.
Even IF there was a mileage bump the general cost of the system would probably take 5-10+ years to just break even.
 
Even IF there was a mileage bump the general cost of the system would probably take 5-10+ years to just break even.
I was wondering about that, thanks for letting me know. From a performance application would the efi system still be non cost effective?
 
Cheapest to improve mileage?
A good tune, vacuum gauge and taller,narrow tires. Also a decent wheel alignment.
But as mentioned, a guy might be better off just putting the money in the tank. 17 mpg is totally acceptable in a vintage hot rod.

Like spending $45,000 to get a new economy car, how does that make sense? Could drive the wheels off the old car and be money ahead 10 years later..
 
I was wondering about that, thanks for letting me know. From a performance application would the efi system still be non cost effective?
I wouldn't really call it a performance mod either, but if part/all of your goals is something other than to purely save money than price doesn't really matter so much, generally performance is expensive so it's really up to you if any particular mod is worth it or not.
 
I was wondering about that, thanks for letting me know. From a performance application would the efi system still be non cost effective?
You would have to do a lot of research before pulling the trigger on a $2000 FI system to get better gas mileage. The big picture is, at a couple miles per gallon savings, it would take years of driving your old car to pay for the system. I bought a used tool truck that had a Holley system on it. After having issues with it numerous times, I removed it and put a Quadrajet back on. I was suprised but the mileage was the same. 5 mpg. May be 5.5 on a good day!
 
Depends what mileage we are talking about, intown vs highway or some mixed version.
Where I live 15-20 mins (good traffic) outside of Toronto, I could go my whole life without taking the highway it's like 5% or less of my driving and when I do it's very short amount of time 2-20 mins.

Intown Unless something is wrong with you car it's gonna be hard to improve mileage in any significant way it's just gonna take a certain amount fuel to drive a A body sized car around town. Of all the different cars I've owned most got like 15-17 intown, worst was my 5.9l Jeep at 12 mpg and my Avenger R/T 19-21 mpg is the best I've had.

Highway you could do decent improvements but you really have to be putting a ton of miles on to break even on a lot of mods.

Seems like in America the highway is more apart of your lives.
 
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