need recommendations for brake shoes and wheel cylinders

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str12-340

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This is for a 1970 Dart V-8 street car. It gets driven several thousand miles a year. The car has factory K-H discs in the front and 10 inch drums out back, I need to replace the wheel cylinders and shoes (1 brake cylinder seeped and I want to replace the parts in pairs). I have half seen various threads about a variety of wheel cylinders of various sizes that would fit. Remembering this is a street driven car (no racing straight or around curves) and that the brakes need to last, what wheel cylinders would you suggest - size and brand. With the same conditions, what would you recommend for shoes?
 
i've done two 8.75's and an 8.25 in the last 6mo and used either raybestos or wagner for all the bits and was very pleased with the quality of both. i found the carlson hardware kits are a little better than most but the raybestos are good too.

the wagner quiet stops are organic and they're bonded (if that bothers you), but they stop smooth and quiet and don't eat up drums. avoid the power stops, the last few sets i've installed have either chattered terribly or just ate up drums (different app, but all the same). i thought that the fit and finish of the raybestos shoes to be a tick better though.

avoid concentric anything, though their drums and rotors are okay for low key daily stuff, i've had terrible luck with all their other junk. the dorman wheel cylinders have been hit or miss so roll dice on those if you're feelin' lucky.
 
Agreed ^^^^^ I rebuilt my originals, then swapped them out for the smaller version that @slantsixdan posted about. The smaller have 13/16 bore as opposed to the original 15/16. No miles on the car as of yet though.
 
i've done two 8.75's and an 8.25 in the last 6mo and used either raybestos or wagner for all the bits and was very pleased with the quality of both. i found the carlson hardware kits are a little better than most but the raybestos are good too.
Agreed.
 
Unfortunately, I don't recall the brand that I used, but I had to modify the lower anchor slots where the adjuster seats. The upper angle was too shallow which kept the adjuster from easily turning. I suspect they were a brand name as I try not to buy un-branded stuff.
 
Generally back in the day, we thought the riveted lining was best. Rock Auto has 1 set of Bosch that are riveted. Firm Feel has them but they are around $100.
 
Has anyone had premature rear wheel lock up. I never had so just asking.
My son's 73 Dart did. Not something that inspires confidence. Manual front disc, 10 x 2 1/2 rear drum. I should probably find an empty parking lot and try the others.
 
Wondering about the 4 piston stuff. But I do have the 73 stuff on my barracuda with no issues. Thinking back I never remember having this issue.
 
Wondering about the 4 piston stuff. But I do have the 73 stuff on my barracuda with no issues. Thinking back I never remember having this issue.
How often do you make emergency stops? I don't think it happens during normal braking. (not meaning to sound combative)
 
How often do you make emergency stops? I don't think it happens during normal braking. (not meaning to sound combative)
I had a '72 Charger that would lock up the rears with hard, if not necessarily emergency braking. It was a nose-heavy car with a 400 and A/C.
 
Shortly after I learned of this, @French demon posted the issue that he had. Hopefully he will chime in.

Following the Slant-six Dan advices, I ordered a pair of 13/16 Dorman W34876 wheel cylinders.
But they are not installed on car yet because for now I am into the rebuilding of my carburetor
The Demon is immobilized.
 
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I personally would want my backs to lock up before fronts (no steering) but obviously not too soon.
no no no my friend. you want the front to lock up before the back. when the rears lock up first the car becomes unstable and it likes to swap ends.

drifters often employ specialized brake systems specifically to lock up the rear brakes so that the cars become unstable and tail happy.
 
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