need tips on painting engine

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71scamp78

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Gonna buy a used 360 and was wondering what works best as far as cleaning engine and what brand paint to use. Also should I use a primer before paint. Thanks for the tips...better to ask first
 
First thing is a real good cleaning, use what ever it take but get it clean.
After, I wash it down and wipe with denatured alcohol real good then let dry.
Yes Primer, high heat and then paint when primer is ready for paint..
Just a quick response that has always worked for me.
 
I've been researching this topic myself. You will get many opinions on what type or brand of paint to use. It will also depend on whether you are doing a restoration correct paint job or just painting an engine.
I will be doing a restoration correct painting of my engine after it comes back from the dyno. Totally Auto has some good prep info on their site:

http://www.totallyautoinc.com/paint/painting_tips.html

I'm sure that others will add their own personal experience on this topic soon.
 
I'll just clean the block really well with solvent....then water based cleaners.

I don't prime, just shoot it with multiple light coats with engine enamel. 1 trick: before the first coat, on the BARE metal, warm it with a propane type torch and you'll actually see the block "dry out". then I coat the warmed metal.

works for me.....
 
I just want to use chrsyler orange ..period correct would be blue for a 71 dart I believe but I don't car for the blue. It's been awhile since I painted one. In the past I would clean with a drill and and wire brush on the end. Just wonder what is best overall cleaner as far as decreasing it and if I should prime first. Thanks guys
 
I clean them as good as I can, Put solvent into a paint gun and wash it down several times, then wash it once more to be sure. I spray a coat of DP epoxy primer on the whole thing then cover with 2 coats of Urethane color. Usually Hemi Orange or a IH red that is very close to the original early 273 color. It sticks well on bare metal and all prepped surfaces, only burns off on the heat riser if I use a iron intake and because it is so smooth, makes oil and grime cleanup a breeze. I have had oil pans I painted vatted and heat cleaned and it discolored it but it did not come off completely.
 
B-onefan said:
I clean them as good as I can, Put solvent into a paint gun and wash it down several times, then wash it once more to be sure. I spray a coat of DP epoxy primer on the whole thing then cover with 2 coats of Urethane color. Usually Hemi Orange or a IH red that is very close to the original early 273 color. It sticks well on bare metal and all prepped surfaces, only burns off on the heat riser if I use a iron intake and because it is so smooth, makes oil and grime cleanup a breeze. I have had oil pans I painted vatted and heat cleaned and it discolored it but it did not come off completely.
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I don't own a spray gun yet
 
If you want have a local machine shop hot tank it cleans up the engine and gets rid of any old paint, then bring it home wash with soap and water let dry then I just use engine enamel paint from my local autozone. That what I always do and it turns out good.
 
Matts440 said:
If you want have a local machine shop hot tank it cleans up the engine and gets rid of any old paint, then bring it home wash with soap and water let dry then I just use engine enamel paint from my local autozone. That what I always do and it turns out good.
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Can't hot tank it , it's a completely engine ready to drop in
 
We do all of the above, plus clear the whole engine. Holds a nice shine and makes wiping off oil and water a breeze.
 
We use actuall car clear coat that you mix with hardener and spray with gun. You could use rattle can clear, which I have, but it tends to dull after some time.
With the hardener it really prolongs the finish of your engine and it takes a lot of heat.
 
A trick my dad taught me is to get an old set of spark plugs, and break all the porcelain off. That way when you're painting the heads you don't get paint (or other crap) in the holes, and you also don't get a "shadow" unpainted behind the plugs when you paint.
I reckon engine enamel is a crock. Any decent paint will do the job. Stay away from "quick dry" enamel rattle cans. I did the last motor I painted I used a colour match enamel spray can mixed up by an automotive paint shop. Went on really good, and still looks amazing.
 
I have always used a degreaser to clean them first.Then I wire wheel them and use a can or two of brake cleaner on the bare metal to clean..Menards sells RustOLeum Hemi orange ,although they will not have it in stock and will have to order it.
 
I used the POR 15 Paint Kit,
It came with the Cleaner - Paint - Primer....
It turned out pretty good I think
 

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With no spray gun, I just use a rag soaked with the cleaner or small paint brush and sop it on all over and let it run off and dry in air. I use standard paint prep solvent like used for body painting. No primers, just 2-3 light coats of engine enamel; holds good on a few dozen engines so far....
 
Dam, we all got some good looking motors... :cheers:
 
Dartn440 said:
http://www.mymopar.com/enginecolors.htm

Chart with engines and paint codes. Can't really add a whole lot to what has been said but I thought the paint chart might help.
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That's a good chart, but I found one discrepancy.


I have a 71 Challenger convert 340 and the engine was blue, not hemi orange like the chart says. I think that they "overlapped" a few years....
 
Anyone use engine paint from these guys? Just bought argent wheel texture and silver rally wheel paint. Great to deal with.


Totally Auto Home Totally Auto shop Totally Auto Parts Totally Auto Gallery Tottaly Auto About Us Totally Auto Contact
From the Originators of Textured Argent in a Can!

paint cans

RESTORERS SPRAY PAINTS

The paint we offer is NOT, store bought spray paint! That's the crap the other guys sell. Ours is actual PPG AUTOMOTIVE PAINT, that we mix to our specifications, only after DECADES of research and sampling of ORIGINAL cars. It was difficult to get it to come out of a can but we did the work to make it as best as possible for you guys who don't have specialized painting equipment at home.
And now it is EVEN BETTER!
 
Like anything, prep is the key. The cleaner you get the motor, the longer the paint will last.
I spray brake cleaner on the assembled motor, as final prep. Let it air dry, before painting.
The factory "did not" primer the engine. I suppose it was not cost effective. Im sure a nice coat of epoxy primer wouldnt hurt, but I just use paint. I use Mopar Performance paint in a rattle can, and have never had a problem with it. Again, prep is key.
 

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