Need to spec up a drive shaft - Not sure how strong it needs to be?

-
Rat Patrol

Rat Patrol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
1,245
Reaction score
62
Location
On the outskirts
My current driveshaft with 1310 Unis has "issues"

I'm looking at a Denny's shaft...but I'm not sure how strong it needs to be?

Car weighs 3650lbs with me in it......makes around 450 ftlbs(?) and around 420 FWHP...but I'm hoping next year that might go up to around 450.

I don't want to overkill but I DO want to "set and forget"....

So maybe some 11 sec guys can help me out here......

1330 solid, 1350 or 7290 Unis?

3" or 3.5" tube?

My main concern is if I need billet yokes or not?

Anybody better than Denny's?
 
Strange engineering makes some pretty amazing stuff, shocks, driveshafts rear ends etc. http://www.strangeengineering.net i had them send me a full catalog a while back and ive pretty well decided on them to do most of my drivetrain parts. is your car leaving at 5000 on a transbrake or clutch? or footbraking from 2500, if just footbraking i would think a 3" tube with 1350 joints would be more than enough. the billet yokes would be a good idea if your leaving the line super hard but if not i wouldnt worry about it. anyways thats my two cents
 
Denny's are good. But personally I had enough talking to them and Denny himself and I haven't used him in years as a result. I have to think there's a more local place for you. 3" tube, 1350s, not need for billet yokes. It only needs to be the right length and well balanced. Have a local driveline place make it.
 
I'm doing an upgrade of my own. I'm going with 1350 solid joints and billet yokes on a 3" tube. My car makes 630hp and I currently footbrakeing. I was hoping to go with a tranny brake for next year but ran out of money.
 
Definitely get the steel billet yoke for the rear, and a matching front would be good insurance also. But that depends on your u-joint size. I footbrake at 3,540 to 3,700lbs + and since I switched several years ago to Spicer solid 7260 joints, a billet year yoke and a custom driveshaft from a local guy, no problems at all. I believe the driveshaft is 3" and may be seamless tubing.

I switched to billet because OEM style rear yokes will eventually spread on you and the u-joint will pound out. I found out the hard way.
 
Mind want to search out a member Supershafts, he owns a driveshaft shop I believe....
 
Thanks for the input!

is your car leaving at 5000 on a transbrake or clutch? or footbraking from 2500,
Click to expand...

Good point - Foot braking at about 2000! LOL!

I have to think there's a more local place for you. 3" tube, 1350s, not need for billet yokes. It only needs to be the right length and well balanced. Have a local driveline place make it.
Click to expand...

Believe it or not Dave, thanks to my car importer buddies, I can land a HD shaft from Denny's cheaper than I can get one made here.

I switched to billet because OEM style rear yokes will eventually spread on you and the u-joint will pound out. I found out the hard way.
Click to expand...

My pinion yoke is the cap screw type, so if anything I'd change it just to get the U Bolt type.

-----------

My biggest question now is do i need 1350s? or would solid 1330s work OK for my purposes?

This is the shaft I was thinking of...........

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1293_1330_series_hd_3.5_inch_driveshaft.html
 
I really don;t think you need the billet or the solid joints. I prefer to be able to grease them occasionally and your car should not leave anywhere near that hard. Most U joints break from driveline alignment issues than just overpowering. There's some really strong big block, heavy, stick cars that exceed that power level that are running stock 1350-type joints. Aside from the balance issue, a stock type shaft would be fine for that performance level. It's not a bracket car with skicks and a brake. It's a street car.
 
Thanks for the advice...I think I'll settle for a "medium" level of upgrade, 1330 solids on the Denny's shaft will work with a decent tube. The jury is out on the rear yoke...I suppose i can always swap it out if it starts to get sloppy.

Thanks all.
 
Use a AL shaft with 1330 series or even 1310 series, either of them in spl will handle that hp. I would use 3.5 AL tube and you'll be fine for the hp you're at and the rpm you expect.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top