need trans help! completely lost on this one.

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tjgp360

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ok so i posted a while back about carb problems after a light rebiuld

when i got the engine up and running i drove the car for about 2 weeks, I had ZERO problems while driving other than running a little rich

up until one day i stopped at a stop sign on the way to class and when i hit the gas my engine only revved, when i switch to reverse it could take anywhere from 2 to 20 seconds to engage. Drive would not engage AT ALL

the next day i started it up and i was able to drive fine for about 10 min until the trans started acting the same way.


  • the trans shifts through all gears when working
  • the engine runs fine no overheating
  • the trans fluid is a healthy red
Im lost on this one guys!!!
 
I'm not an expert at all what-so-ever, but it sounds like the pump went out on the tranny. That explains when the fluid gets hot, it gets to thin for the tranny to pump the fluid. Just a thought.
 
Hmm? where is the pump located. i believe i have a 904, originally the engine is a 360 2bll now a 4bll with edelbrock intake,
 
........It will need a rebuild..............i had 1 that did exactually the same thing........pump was fine.......lip seals were worn off and clutches worn out, too much clearance.........kim......
 
so would a rebuild for those parts be more expensive than a finding a replacement? or maybe something with O/D .....probably not lol i need this thing up asap!
 
Sounds like you are losing pressure,but if you had some trash in the pan your filter maybe clogging up after 10 minutes of driving and starving the pump.Changing the filter and fluid may fix it,at least when you have the pan off you can look for the magnet on the pan and see how much metal is attached to it....And if the filter looks clogged...
TXDart
P.S. Your car probably did not come with a magnet but if some rebuilt in the past it may have one.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34510&sid=7f4a1ba8f66c85f0cfe73546a41a23cb
 
Have you had the pan off the trans ? When a filter is too clogged the trans will work OK cold and go away when it gets hot. A new filter and band adjust may buy you a little time but if the filter and pan are full of junk... rebuild soon.
 
i have never taken the pan off the trans, i always thought the trans was untouched but i just heard from the previous driver that the trans has had a "rebuild" in the last 2-4 years before it was in my possession, i know for a fact that the trans hasnt been touched in 2 years....also i think the term "rebuild" was just used to say "added a shift kit"
 
Run some pressure and leak-down tests.......that should tell the story.
 
Usually when only reverse works and then it quits driving, it's either low on fluid or the lip seals are hardened up from age and don't like to seal anymore.
Especially if there is no metal in the pan.

IMPORTANT questions that will make all the difference.

Did it hesitate to move when it was not warmed up yet?
Did you ever have to rev it to get it to engage.
Is the fluid level low, just right, or over full.
If you chk the fluid before you start it it should look over full, and then when running the fluid level is normal? (This would prove if the pump is running or not)

I can answer again real soon if you answer these.
 
TrailBeast said:
Usually when only reverse works and then it quits driving, it's either low on fluid or the lip seals are hardened up from age and don't like to seal anymore.
Especially if there is no metal in the pan.

IMPORTANT questions that will make all the difference.

Did it hesitate to move when it was not warmed up yet?
Did you ever have to rev it to get it to engage.
Is the fluid level low, just right, or over full.
If you chk the fluid before you start it it should look over full, and then when running the fluid level is normal? (This would prove if the pump is running or not)

I can answer again real soon if you answer these.
Click to expand...


  1. no it doesent hesitate to move on cold start up, it also has no problem when engine is warmed up after it sits
  2. Never have to rev it on cold start up, and once the trans starts acting stupid its kind of hit and miss, it may seems like rev engages it but it really doesnt
  3. fluid levels look just right, dipstick is wet up to the full line
  4. i dont think i looked at the level when cold i will check today
 
Chk it before you start it, and we want to see the fluid higher on the stick than normal 1/2-1 hr should be enough for the converter to drain back into the pan and make it look overfull.
The main problem with pressure tests and leakdown chks is that they cost money and time, but they do work.
We can most likely diag this without cost and faster.




tjgp360 said:
  1. no it doesent hesitate to move on cold start up, it also has no problem when engine is warmed up after it sits
  2. Never have to rev it on cold start up, and once the trans starts acting stupid its kind of hit and miss, it may seems like rev engages it but it really doesnt
  3. fluid levels look just right, dipstick is wet up to the full line
  4. i dont think i looked at the level when cold i will check today
Click to expand...
 
Check it before starting and note the fluid level.
Set the e brake, start it, and put the trans in neutral, then chk it again.

It should be lower than when it was when not running but on the full mark.




tjgp360 said:
ok i will post back in about an hour, hopefully i can get pics of the fluid level
Click to expand...
 
TrailBeast said:
Check it before starting and note the fluid level.
Set the e brake, start it, and put the trans in neutral, then chk it again.

It should be lower than when it was when not running but on the full mark.
Click to expand...


sorry about the delay i checked the fluid level while the car was off and cool, the level was above the line, and i KNOW for a fact that while its running that it just right so i guess the pump is working
 
But is it putting out sufficient flow to produce enough pressure?
 
This is starting to sound like a really worn clutch pack letting the lip seals come out of the sealing area of the piston bore.
 
Well I guess it has to produce some flow on start up because it shifts properly but later it doesn't.....what does that mean?
 
.......this might be dumb and I know its all mechanical but do you think some kind of wiring problem coul be a cause.....after te engine rebuild my gas gauge has been on E all the damn time! It was fine before
 
There's no way it's electrical.
Boy, sometimes it sure would be fun to travel around the US just chking out problems with these cars.
I wish I could help you more, but driving, then not, then driving again is a real odd thing. (Very rare)
I would have to say at this point, that it's going to have to come out for internal inspection.
I still suspect it may be a highly worn clutch pack.
OOOrrr, it's possible the main valve in the pump is sticking when it warms up. ????
Anyone else have a thought about that?



tjgp360 said:
.......this might be dumb and I know its all mechanical but do you think some kind of wiring problem coul be a cause.....after te engine rebuild my gas gauge has been on E all the damn time! It was fine before
Click to expand...
 
Ok I decided I'm ging to rebuild it...now wit the symptoms ihave what would be the best rebuild kit? I found some as low as $38 but those only include seals, but do I need new gears if they work?

I just drove the car 3 blocks back and forth and was able to park it, though on the first 3 block stretch I did visit someone for 10 min
 
given the diag by the others your gonna need a full rebuild... new clutches, bands, seals, yadda yadda...

i would find a local mopar trans guy and have him do it...

it cost me about 600 out the door for a rebuild...
 
I guess 600 isn't that bad but I seen a kit with new gear for around 150 to 200...add that plus a weekend or 2 and we have a bargain!...so what's a good kit since I have a garage to work in now
 
tjgp360 said:
I guess 600 isn't that bad but I seen a kit with new gear for around 150 to 200...add that plus a weekend or 2 and we have a bargain!...so what's a good kit since I have a garage to work in now
Click to expand...

i would stay away from TCI first off...

all the trans-go stuff is good...

if you have a stock to mild motor and dont plan on racing it you can get away with stock clutches and bands...

the real key to a long life is the clearances....
 
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