Negative camber

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Chris Mccall

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OK, sorry if already asked, but I seen alot about caster, but not much on camber. I have a 1970 dart guessing at some piont in its life it was in a mild fender bender? Passenger front tire is maxed out and still 2 inches or so of negative camber. Will tubular upper arms help? Or are then just caster? I bought offset bushings but only say 2 degrees so not worth installing and still be way in and have to get arms anyways.
 
Chris Mccall said:
OK, sorry if already asked, but I seen alot about caster, but not much on camber. I have a 1970 dart guessing at some piont in its life it was in a mild fender bender? Passenger front tire is maxed out and still 2 inches or so of negative camber. Will tubular upper arms help? Or are then just caster? I bought offset bushings but only say 2 degrees so not worth installing and still be way in and have to get arms anyways.
Click to expand...
Did you measure the steering axis inclination and the included angle?
 
Figure out what’s bent all to hell before you start buying parts. The factory parts are not capable of massive camber like that, so, if your wheel is tipped in 2” at the top you have damage somewhere.
 
Just to be sure we are all talking about the same thing.


Corrected....


The tops of your tires are tilting inward.

This can only happen if:

  1. The upper control arm is too short
  2. The upper mounts / frame rail are bent inward
  3. The lower control arm is too long
  4. The pivot pins are excessively worn
  5. The bushing is missing
  6. The k member is bent outword
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
Just to be sure we are all talking about the same thing.

The tops of your tires are tilting outward.

This can only happen if:

  1. The upper control arm is too long ( b, c, e, body????)
  2. The upper mounts / frame rail are bent outward
  3. The lower control arm is too short
  4. The pivot pins are excessively worn
  5. The bushing is missing
  6. The k member is bent inword or wrong
Click to expand...

Backwards. Negative camber is when the top of the tire is tipped in toward the frame, not out.

B/C/E body UCA's will not physically mount on an A-body, the mounting ears are a different width.

To the OP, pictures of the issue would be very helpful.
 
As stated, pics would help. If your ride height is set way too low, then no amount of adjustment will help you either. If you are set at the correct ride height or close to it, and your upper arms are maxed out and you STILL have 2" of negative camber (top of tire is further towards vehicle than bottom of tire) then there is going to be some glaringly obvious damage somewhere up there. It's difficult to guess what can be happening on a car that is 50+ years old
 
Dana67Dart said:
Just to be sure we are all talking about the same thing.


Corrected....


The tops of your tires are tilting inward.

This can only happen if:

  1. The upper control arm is too short
  2. The upper mounts / frame rail are bent inward
  3. The lower control arm is too long
  4. The pivot pins are excessively worn
  5. The bushing is missing
  6. The k member is bent outword
Click to expand...
Yes think frame pushed in a little..but all drives strait as an arrow. But I know tire going to wear on inside as much as top of tire is inward. Don't want to try and stretch frame as 50 years old it could do more damage then good. Just thought maybe tubular control armis longer and could offset the negative?
 
72bluNblu said:
Figure out what’s bent all to hell before you start buying parts. The factory parts are not capable of massive camber like that, so, if your wheel is tipped in 2” at the top you have damage somewhere.
Click to expand...
Yes think frame pushed in a little..but all drives strait as an arrow. But I know tire going to wear on inside as much as top of tire is inward. Don't want to try and stretch frame as 50 years old it could do more damage then good. Just thought maybe tubular control armis longer and could offset the negative
 
72bluNblu said:
Backwards. Negative camber is when the top of the tire is tipped in toward the frame, not out.

B/C/E body UCA's will not physically mount on an A-body, the mounting ears are a different width.

To the OP, pictures of the issue would be very helpful.
Click to expand...
Yes think frame pushed in a little..but all drives strait as an arrow. But I know tire going to wear on inside as much as top of tire is inward. Don't want to try and stretch frame as 50 years old it could do more damage then good. Just thought maybe tubular control armis longer and could offset the negative
 
I think adjustable upper arms is the easiest fix, other than getting the frame straightened...
 
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