neutral safety switch/ reverse light unit in trans

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str12-340

str12-340

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I need a reality check. I had some problems with my neutral safety switch engaging, so I got a new one several weeks ago. Now car starts fine, but I realized that I lost my back-up lights. I put the car up and unplugged the switch at the trans and jumped the outer two sockets in the wire plug and the back-up lights come on. I think this means that the back-up light part of the switch is faulty, CORRECT???
 
str12-340 said:
I need a reality check. I had some problems with my neutral safety switch engaging, so I got a new one several weeks ago. Now car starts fine, but I realized that I lost my back-up lights. I put the car up and unplugged the switch at the trans and jumped the outer two sockets in the wire plug and the back-up lights come on. I think this means that the back-up light part of the switch is faulty, CORRECT???
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Or there's something wrong on the valve body linkage.
 
Someone posted awhile back about experimenting with switch gaskets for depth. Maybe the comb/ shaft is worn, OR MAYBE the current crop of china switches are just junk. They really must be fairly precision.
 
Can be the wrong switch to the rooster comb, there are three of them. And two three pin switches. Was the trans ever rebuilt or a new one to the vehicle?

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The unit that came out (which worked for 35 years) is the one with the tall hex and the one that I bought looks just like it. The back up lights worked with the old one, but I had intermittent issues with the neutral start (which seems to be fixed with the new unit). Since the back-up lights and the neutral switch work in different gears how is that accomplished in the switch unit?
 
Dana67Dart said:
Did it ever work correctly?
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I don't think so. I was so focused on the starting issue that I didn't even check the back-up lights when I installed it a several weeks ago. Now the car starts every time, but no back-up lights. Since they work fine when you put in a jumper wire at the trans harness plug, I assume that the only issue has to be the switch or how the switch is activated inside the trans, correct?
 
I found that messing with depth made a difference of one sort or another, ended up using a Holley power valve gasket to space switch out ?
 
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