New 383 wont fire

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tommy383

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Ok, I am getting a headache tracking down the problem.....heres what i have

1966 383 block, fresh rebuilt by me, with help from a buddy that i have seen and ridden in plenty of his cars in which he built the motor. I do not suspect in anyway the motor was built incorrectly....

We went to fire the car after installing in the car, and were not getting anything. We are getting backfire through the exhaust, and no backfires when swapping 180 degrees. Today we checked the stroke and are at tdc and timed properly. I was having issues with the carb, that came off my 72 rr a few years back. fuel was spitting out of the front breather vent. i cleaned the needle and all seems good. We are not getting any fire at all. checked all wires and they are all getting continuity, and priming with gas is getting us not even a sputter.
cam is a used hydraulic FT, and came from my buddys satellite.

any input is appreciated!
 
Are you getting spark? I would think so if it was backfiring.Are you getting fuel? If you are getting spark and fuel it should start.
 
it is getting spark, and as for fuel i am seeing gas squirt into the intake when i move the throttle....also wouldnt it fire with priming fluid/gas poured into the intake?
 
we wired it counterclockwise on the diet which is what my research says is correct.
 
The only time I had problems like that it turned out to be the ballast resistor. Is your MSD setup still using a ballast resistor?
 
so if i am getting this correct you have checked that the distrubter is not 180 out. this my sound stupid but did you make sure that you have the fireing order correct. and make sure you did not flip just two around. I guess i would start from the top get the motor so it is fireing on no. 1 pull cap and make sure the distribtor is fireing no. one then make sure all the plug wires are correct i mean fuel spark it should fire i know this is basic stuff but sometimes this is the stuff that bites you
 
VERY easy to set timing so that it will fire right up assuming nothing else is wrong
Pull the no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine until you START to feel compression. You may have to "go round" once to get the feel

When you START to feel compression, use a socket on the front bolt, and slowly bring the marks up NOT to TDC, but "where you want" initial timing.

Depending on the cam, this can be 15--20*. If your balancer is not degreed, you can estimate that from the marks.

Now look under the cap, to where the rotor is pointing. THIS IS your no1 starting point. Swing the dist. housing so that you have some movement either way, IE the vacuum can is not jammed up against the valve cover etc

So with the dist. case "in the middle" of movement, bring the dist. RETARD (ccw on big block) and then BACK towards advance, slowly, until the reluctor wheel is centered in the pickup coil

You want the dist. snugged down so you can still move it, but not easily. Now, set the cap on/ off to tell where the rotor points, and plug no1 into that hole. Just go CCW around the cap.
 
when i try the finger spark plug trick, i am getting a sucking during part, and no pushing of air on my finger....any thoughts
 
It takes three things for engine to run fuel,spark and compression. I think you need to run a compression test.
 
going to buy a compression tool tomorrow.....why would it pull air in but not blow out....could a valve not be closing?
 
tommy383 said:
when i try the finger spark plug trick, i am getting a sucking during part, and no pushing of air on my finger....any thoughts
Click to expand...

I would try same thing in another plug hole and see if same results...are you bumping over by key or by hand??
 
im crossing connections at the starter relay with screwdriver just to bump the motor over....
 
tommy383 said:
when i try the finger spark plug trick, i am getting a sucking during part, and no pushing of air on my finger....any thoughts
Click to expand...

Pushing AIR OUT is what you are looking for. That is the definition of "compression." You are trying to determine when the piston is coming UP on the COMPRESSION stroke.

The piston comes up every time the crank comes up to TDC. Only one of those times is the "compression" stroke.

If you get no compression, you either have the camshaft way out of time, or valve/ valve adjustment problems
 
no compression on #2 cylinder either....only sucking on my finger....i will still buy a compression tool but an sure it is not compressing air.

I do not believe i can adjust my valves....hydraulic FT cam, and stock rockers....
the heads are 440 source stealths...stock length pushrods...484 mopar cam...i dont know what could be wrong.
 
i did this earlier to see if a rocker was not moving...everything is moving so i assume cam is ok....how could it be out of time?
 
Are you sure the cam is in right? You need to pull drivers side valve cover and bring engine to tdc and check to see if both valves are closed on #1.
 
i would start over . get you a piston stop or make one. bring the #1 piston up until it stops. verify the balancer is right BTDC. pull the cap and verify the rotor is firing at the number 1 wire at the #1 terminal on the cap. double check your firing order and rotation on the cap

if the cam was installed wrong chances are good you would be bending pushrods. but it could be off just enough to screw everything up
 
well i thought that is what i said but it seems clear the more people spoke up sorry if i was not clear
 
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