New 408 build finally started

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SSG_Karg said:
John, do you do all the oiling mods described in the Guitar Jones thread?
I tubed the passenger side on my block and shut the oil off to the driver side with a set screw in the #1 main saddle. Is that how you do it also?
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Honestly I’ve never read that thread. I started to and from what I saw was stuff most of us that have been around have been doing for years. (I should take a morning and read it) It will be tubed for sure. I did drag out my old and newer engine books today mainly because I forgot about posting up some head porting books I’ve accumulated.
 
pittsburghracer said:
View attachment 1715456530 View attachment 1715456531 View attachment 1715456532 View attachment 1715456533 Ok just got off the phone from a nice talk with Jim Dowel of Racer Brown. There where some strength questions regarding the cast steel (not Billet) roller cam I planned to use for this build that I had sitting here for probably well over 10 years. I gave Jim my engine specs, app head flow numbers, convertor stall, and shift rpm (app 7000) and he said no issues on it no being Billet steel. He said because of the lower shift rpm if it would make me sleep better set it up for 200-220 seat and 550 open instead of the suggested 600-650. This will also let me use a hardened oil pump drive instead of bronze.
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I agree with those pressures.
I run 220 seat and 550 open @.575, no issues.
Now watch that crower guy come in and say we're wrong...lol.. I say to any and all... buy my parts and you can set it whereever you want.
 
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Well not a lot of progress but I have my main bearing clearance set where I want it and when I take it back apart I will address the issue of wanting .003 more crankshaft end play. I switched it over from stock main cap bolts to main studs and like usual this block wasn’t line bored. Without a main seal and assembled with 10-30 oil the needed torque to turn it over is well under 20 inch pounds (thats as low as my inch pound wrench goes). This is the block I bought from my buddy (550.00) needing money that was bored .030 over, honed, deck squared, cam bearings, oil pump drive bushing, brass soft plugs, and magnafluxed. Tomorrow hopefully throw four pistons in to check deck height and if all is well Year it back down to have the assembly balanced.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Honestly I’ve never read that thread. I started to and from what I saw was stuff most of us that have been around have been doing for years. (I should take a morning and read it) It will be tubed for sure. I did drag out my old and newer engine books today mainly because I forgot about posting up some head porting books I’ve accumulated.
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When you drill the block to tube it, do you use a mill? Or just do it by hand?
 
I'm sure you know this but for others make sure you line up the thrust main cap so you can reinstall the same way when you torque the mains
you obviously want the thrust faces lined up
 
Wyrmrider said:
I'm sure you know this but for others make sure you line up the thrust main cap so you can reinstall the same way when you torque the mains
you obviously want the thrust faces lined up
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Ya just learning how to properly set your thrust is a learned art. I tap my caps down and take a brass hammer to the converter hub and the end of the crankshaft several times before I start torquing things down.
 
I put studs in my main caps and had to enlarge the holes a little bit on the thrust cap to get the top and bottom thrust to center.
Tap it back and forth and every time i torqued the nut......crank no turning. Took me a while to figure out what was wrong.
Slightly enlarged the main cap bolt hole in the main cap, and everything lined up just fine.
 
Cudafever said:
I put studs in my main caps and had to enlarge the holes a little bit on the thrust cap to get the top and bottom thrust to center.
Tap it back and forth and every time i torqued the nut......crank no turning. Took me a while to figure out what was wrong.
Slightly enlarged the main cap bolt hole in the main cap, and everything lined up just fine.
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Some guys put there caps on first then screw in the studs. I like to do it the other way putting the caps over the installed studs as it gives me more insight on if a main cap hole needs relieved some. I would rather not do that if it’s not needed.
 
My first eng i built it took 100 foot pound to start the crank turning.(just the crank installed)
Called the machine shop and ask if this was normal. they said no, and bring everything back.
They had to line bore it. I was amazed how smooth it turned afterwards.

If something don't feel warm and fussy.........You need to start asking questions.
 
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Well with the .001 extra clearance rod bearings I had on a shelf my rod bearing clearance came in exactly where I like it. With my buddy having this block squared and cut my fingers were crossed the deck height was ok for these pistons. Very happy with what I see and I couldn’t have gotten it much closer to zero deck.
 
You know, looking at them piston, got me thinking, about the valve reliefs.
Something i should have thought about a long time ago........but the light bulb just when off.

Piston reliefs and valve shrouding. I usually just us a light checking spring to check valve to piston clearance.
Clay just might give me more info then i thought.
Just thinking out loud.
 
Thinking aloud or quietly in a corner is a good thing. My best thinking times are during my walks along the local river, cutting grass on my tractor, or even sometimes in the middle of a good nights sleep.
 
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Well guys I couldn’t help myself. While I had pistons in it I couldn’t help myself and threw one of my 219.00 Speedmaster heads on my 9 second engine. Lol. Well guess what, I have slight contact with piston to head. Very slight and everyone should check this out. I will take a closer look when I bolt my Edelbrock heads on it but I’m thinking the way I open up my chambers I should be good. This was also with domed pistons and my safety factor of no head gasket. This will need further investigating.
 
Glad to see this as I'll be starting a 408 build before long. I have fair mechanical background, but this will be my first engine build. The part about "setting up thrust" is something I will have to research.
I have the book by Mopar Performance Parts on Magnum Engines, and an old one by Taylor/Hofer on rebuilding. Any others to recommend, or useful threads?
Thanks for posting your build up.
 
I know your not asking me but.....
How to Build BIG-INCH MOPAR SMALL BLOCKS
BY SA DESIGN is a real good one.
 
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Idaho said:
Glad to see this as I'll be starting a 408 build before long. I have fair mechanical background, but this will be my first engine build. The part about "setting up thrust" is something I will have to research.
I have the book by Mopar Performance Parts on Magnum Engines, and an old one by Taylor/Hofer on rebuilding. Any others to recommend, or useful threads?
Thanks for posting your build up.
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Go slow, ask questions, research, make it a FUN project, and with me 95% of the time I’m by myself. I concentrate way better that way. Here are a few I recommend that are always nearby.
 
How many Checking Springs does one man need?
You know i had to look past the picture:D
 
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Busy day. I finished up clearancing my block for the rod bolts and it’s ready to come apart to send out for assembly balancing. I can dress these up a little better when I defrag the block. While it’s out getting balanced I can bounce between tubing the block and finish porting the heads. Day off tomorrow to take my annual yearly trip into Pittsburgh for the World Of Wheels show with my son Matt. Lots of time BSing with close friends.
 
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