new cam-valve /lifter tap. Help!

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fratzog lover

fratzog lover

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Just had my new Compcam XE268 installed Wednesday at the local racer shop. When I picked it up I noticed it had a little tap. Knowing the mechanic had just backed it out of the garage after installing the cam and doing the break-in, I wasn't concerned. After taking a few stop signs and turns, I wound up at the red light at the highway and noticed the tap bouncing off the car next to me. The car was warmed up and lifters fully pumped. I called the shop and did not hear back. Called the next morning and asked to talk to the installer who told me to call Compcams if I thought I had a bad lifter. I wanted to know what he thought. He is the racer. I refinish floors for a living. I am not happy and when I asked about my lifters being put back in the box in order so I could sell the cam, he said he did not do it, they should just buy new lifters. Common sense told me he probably did the same thing with my push robs and just took them all out and put them in a cup. Aren't they supposed to be kept with the specific rocker they mated too, just like lifters and cam lobes? After $800+ for installation, I am worried if this is just a valve tic or if there is any chance of damage. The old cam was a Voodoo with 454/475 lift. The new cam is 477/480 lift so there is no radical departure there. I know there are a lot of racers/builders on this site. Please help. Thank you.
 
I would take the car back,and complain.(Personally). Before I say anymore,let others chime in.
 
I have no idea why you even upgraded cams. You put basically the same thing back in it.
 
800 Seams a little steap you should get great customeer service for that price. Take it back and ***** sounds like you just had sex with your pants on.
 
Not really. I had a Lunati 0601 256/262,213/220 at 0.050, 454/475 112 LSA and replaced it with an xe 268 268/280, 224/230, 477/480 @110 installed at 108 and a coan 2500 converter. The noise is on the left side so I am going to pop the valve cover this afternoon after work. What should I be checking for? Seems comp has been known to have loud lifters once in a while according to other car forums>
 
Like I said. Almost no change. If I had paid somebody 800 to do a cam change, that joker would have been one hell of a change.

That said, the number one thing that hangs "mechanics" up on Mopars is the correct placement of the rocker shafts. That would be what I would check first.
 
Pulled the valve cover. Hasnt run since thursday night. Number 1 intake is the only pushrod I can move up and down and number 4 exhaust is the only push rod I cant spin at all with my fingers. Time to unbolt the rocker shaft.
 
Why are you doing this? You didn't pay $800 just so you could drive home and fix it yourself.

You start messing with it and I can already tell you what the mechanic will say..... "It's something YOU did, and that voids any warranty."
 
Just wanted to look for any thing obvious, Im not telling him I pulled the cover! Push rods are all straight, rolled 'em all. #1 intake rocker is loose no matter what, tap the key turn the engine over a bit, still loose. none of the other rockers are like that. Do I smell a bad break in, maybe not dry priming the engine? Maybe just a bad lifter?
 
As RRR said double check the rocker shafts, or have the mechanic chk. Some engines have a specific way the shafts go in as the ends of them are grooved. What engine?
 
This is a mopar guy so I would hope he knows. I would assume you just unbolt the rocker assembly, set it aside and then reinstall, correct? Its oiling fine, all the rockers are dribbling oil.
 
I run a Comp cam and have a little tapping as well. In everything I have read it can be inherent to the fast ramps on the cams.

IF he didn't check installed spring height and pressure on each valve that could contribute to the tapping.
 
I know on Dads 273, there were grooves in each end of the rocker shaft and depending on whether front/back as well as pass vs drivers side the notches either faced "up" or "down".
 
What oil is in it?
Keeping lifters in order is important, pushrods wont matter, unless there is a problem with one. Then you should track where that one was when doing your search for the problem.
 
Not being an ***, but if that was my job done in my shop, your warranty would be void for removing that valve cover.
 
Hopefully you would'nt send out a ticking cam job, and not return calls. Even if my cam choice wasnt radical enough for you. Im looking for friendly advice, not Moparts.com style snarkiness.
 
No, it wouldn't have left here tickin. I wasn't bein snarky at all. I was being serious. Most places will void your warranty if you poking around in it yourself.
 
Did you provide the parts? and the guy only provide the labor?
 
Looks like the stock steel rockers were right at their limit with the old cam. Just ordered a set of pro magnum adjustables. Should be here Wednesday. Wish someone had told me when I ordered or had the installation done. Oh well, yet another story for another day. Thanks to all for the advice.
 
fratzog lover said:
Looks like the stock steel rockers were right at their limit with the old cam. Just ordered a set of pro magnum adjustables. Should be here Wednesday. Wish someone had told me when I ordered or had the installation done. Oh well, yet another story for another day. Thanks to all for the advice.
Click to expand...

That was going to be my question. If you're running stock non-adjustable rockers. For $800, I'd expect it not to have any ticking sounds. Maybe it needed some modified length pushrods with those stock rockers and that cam.....?
 
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