New gas tank leaking twice !!!

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PhillH said:
Also, at this time, after shifting the locking ring around it does appear to be staying dry, but still I couldn't trust it, what if a pothole was to shift it six months later.
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If you can shift the ring around with your hand, then it is definitely too loose. Try crimping the lock tabs on the tank a bit with the new ring.

And the ring has some dimples that should slip into some matching indents in the tank's retention tabs; that keeps it from backing off or ever moving. If the indents are not in the tank's tabs, THAT is a reason to return the tank. If you are not getting the dimples locked into the tabs' indents, then the installation is not correct.

A lot of successful ring and gasket installation has to do with tools and technique. There is a special spanner for this that grabs the square turning tabs on the ring. If you don't want that, then I do it by tapping on the ring's turning tabs a tiny bit at a time with a small hammer and flat bladed screwdriver, and moving around on these 4 tabs to keep the ring as well centered as I can through the process. Using a sparing amount of Vaseline on the ring seems to help a lot in the installation.
 
I did use a screwdriver to shift it, but it was easy enough that I probably could do with my hand if I had too. Yes I too tap them alternating so as to keep it centered and noticed that the pressure right before it set into the dimples was much better than after it dropped into them. I also measured the thickness of new ring and my old OEM ring and found the gauge of the new ring was about 1.3 mm, and the OEM was 2.0 mm's, thats a significant difference. Enough I think to cause the seal to be looser.
 
I got my new old stock piece from Halifaxhops, I don't even have to measure it to see the difference in thickness, also if I lay the OEM piece down on a flat surface it's nice and flat, no rocking. The aftermarket piece is warp and rocks back and forth with the same test. There is no way a warped lock ring is going to seal that well. I have talked with the company I got it from and they in no way will admit that it is made cheaply, I have been going back and forth with them. They keep saying they have no way of knowing if I installed it correctly, I figured as much. I told them if there is some procedure other than the obvious than why no instructions? It's very simple that's why no instructions and it should work without a bunch of tweaking, period...
 
I had same issues. Difficult part is it seems to take a few days for the leak to develop. What I did on my 2nd attempt was to reuse the old lock ring, put a little lithium on the gasket, and I filled up the tank (out of the car) maybe 3 gallons. Then I turned the gas tank up on the side so the sender is now at the bottom of the tank, all of the gas sitting ontop of it. And I let it sit that way for day. Then checked it for leaks. no leaks, so then I empty the gas, install into car, and filler up. Still no leaks. Now my only issue is the angle of the float is so far off, that when I hit E, I actually still have 5 gallons.
 
Don't expect them to admit the issue.... as it would be all over the internet, and they would face the liability of replacing them all. Just hope the input 'takes' and they make them thicker going forward.
 
I do'nt know if anyone mentioned this but get a tool to put the locking ring on with so it goes on evenly when you tighten it
 
I had the same issue. Just bend the tabs in a bit worked for me on leaks
 
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