new gauge cluster now wont start

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808 DUSTER

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Well I just bought a 72 duster and wanted to change the cluster because most of the stock ones were not working. After I wired it all up, I get no response when I turn the key. And on top of that the power coming to the ignition is "hot" with key in off position but when I move to start position it has zero juice. I am really at my wits end and could use some help. Thanks in advance!
 
If ALL you did was change the cluster, there's nothing in there except for the ammeter that would affect the problem. If you have dome, headlights, other power, the ammeter is hooked up.

Did you have the column connector unhooked? Is it possible it's not seated correctly?

From your description it sounds like a problem unrelated to the cluster, and if the ignition is hot with key off it really sounds like a bad IGN switch

What else did you do?
 
did you check the fusible link?

I changed a cluster on a 72 dart (same cluster as you) without disconnecting the battery first and the ammeter is on the side that as you tilt it and pull it out, the ammeter studs can hit the dash frame real easy .....well when I did it, I smoked the fusible link.
 
Currently I have no power to the gauges. I am gonna take it wire by wire tomorrow. I'll double check the ammeter again.
 
I chased all my wires. What I found is this. On the ground side of the ammeter the wire splits at a fused link to the fuse box, ignition and alternator. I have no power from the ammeter on. When I unwrapped the fused link the factory tape looked to be burned through a bit.
 
here is a good read: http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_answer.aspx?sid=1&qid=5

You may have fried the voltmeter? Not sure, but the ammeter wire comes form the alternator and feeds the main circuit from the other side of the ammeter.

You can by pass the ammeter at the dash by bolting the two ends together and taping them up...somewhat temporary fix, but it will get power distributed.
 
808 DUSTER said:
I also just realized I installed a volt meter not an ammeter. Will that affect things?
Click to expand...

Now I don't know what you did

An ammeter is in series, the original wires are the only ones under the dash with ring terminals, a red and a black. If those are still there, you need to disconnect them from anything presently and bolt them together and tape them at the least

The voltmeter needs to be grounded, and hooked to switched 12V through the IGN switch

Here, read this:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

How much different from factory have you changed the wiring? Is this a custom cluster you've built?

You can download a complete 72 shop manual here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088657


and somewhat useful, but sometimes incomplete diagrams here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
 
Its somewhat common for the unknowing to see a black wire on the amp gauge and assume it is a ground. It is not a chassis ground. The current goes right through from red to black and does reach chassis grounds at the ends of the various branch circuits.
A volt gauge should have positive side attached to a dark blue w/white tracer that is hot at switch on. It feeds the instrument panel so you should be able to find and tap it at the panels harness connector. Negative side of the volt gauge does go to chassis ground.
 
So, uh........co'MON................what was the problem?? LOL
 
Problem was buying a volt meter and not an ammeter. Guess I should stop ordering parts when drinking!
 
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