New here with carb / stalling issues

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j340lm

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Joined
Feb 29, 2024
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Location
Ohio
Been a few years due to health issues my 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger 340 A727 has been on the road. No work done on it except for periodic start ups over the years. Had the car since new and I always had the skills to fix any problems. Age has set in and can't figure a few issues out. Old school way of checking for vacuum leaks is spraying carb cleaner around the carb and listen for any idle change. When I spray it around the shaft with the vacuum secondary lever (see picture) the idle drops and almost stalls out. No other idle changes, all lines are good. The carb (Holley 0-80454) was put on either late 90's or very early 2000's. The car has been off the road from shows or cruise-ins since 2008. Last driven 2018 back from a garage and parked. Question is could that rod/lever cause a vacuum problem? Also it will idle, some rough and backfires on a rev past 2000rpm. Also when running it stalls in gear. Was changed over to Direct Connection Electronic Ign over 30 years back and ran great. Trans is A-727. Stock numbers matching vehicle. Only other mod to the motor was replacing the cast iron manifold with the Edlebrock LD-340 in 1972. Any help would be appreciated before I have to trailor it to a shop to get it back running. Plus where we leave there are not many if any shops with guys who know how to work on muscle cars. Thanks.

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Last edited:
Fix or replace the carb
If the carb is adjusted for that leak i guess it could stall the motor i woudnt think it could
That motor should have a much better carb then that 750 avs2 750 holley imo
 
Dump the Holley in a ravine somewhere.
Then check out your cap rotor wires and plugs.
 
This is the Welcome Wagon for new members to introduce themselves, their cars and say hi. You'll have better luck looking the forum over and putting this same post in the appropriate place. Welcome aboard!
 
Beautiful car, Is the fuel in it from 2008? Has it had any conditioner added to the fuel prior to parking it in 08?
The car gets a steady mix of Sunoco Standard 110 (the valves are original so I need some lead) and Pure Gas (no ethenol) on a 1:1 mix. Summit Racing actually clued me in on that solution when the Real Lead additive out of Texas was pulled by the EPA. Sunoco is 110 octane and the Pure Gas @ 90 octane. I use Stabil in the containers if the fuel is going to sit. Here you can't pump race fuel directly into a vehicle from a pump (no problem since the Dart is unable to run).
 
Fix or replace the carb
If the carb is adjusted for that leak i guess it could stall the motor i woudnt think it could
That motor should have a much better carb then that 750 avs2 750 holley imo
Actually the carb is the old Holley 0-80454 600cfm, and was rebuilt once. The other issue was I stored the vehicle with Cam2 and a mix of unleaded gas (with ethenol) and just sat thru the winter months. Even on a rebuild I guess you can't repair the damage ethenol does to rubber. I will check cap, rotor and plugs before I order up a new carb. Thanks.
 
Welcome

Ethanol gas draws moisture right out of the air. That in turn reacts to the aluminum carb body and turns to a white powder as the fuel evaporates out and it sits for long times. This plugs the jets when new fuel is introduced.

First thing I noticed was > Oh, it's a Holley....

I know with the Edelbrocks you can clean the 2 front idle enrichment ports (screws) with carb cleaner and compressed air. Also they are easy to pull the tops off, blow out with compressed air, then carb cleaner, then blow the 2 main jet runs with compressed air to make sure they are blowing clean an not plugged.

Same with the Holley can carefully take the bowls off and clean things out.

Betting the idle circuits are plugged when it dies at idle.


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Welcome

Ethanol gas draws moisture right out of the air. That in turn reacts to the aluminum carb body and turns to a white powder as the fuel evaporates out and it sits for long times. This plugs the jets when new fuel is introduced.

First thing I noticed was > Oh, it's a Holley....

I know with the Edelbrocks you can clean the 2 front idle enrichment ports (screws) with carb cleaner and compressed air. Also they are easy to pull the tops off, blow out with compressed air, then carb cleaner, then blow the 2 main jet runs with compressed air to make sure they are blowing clean an not plugged.

Same with the Holley can carefully take the bowls off and clean things out.

Betting the idle circuits are plugged when it dies at idle.


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Awhile back I tried to adjust the Idle Mixture Screws by sound (didn't use a vacuum guage) and noticed there was no change from the driver side adjusting screw, the other side did change. I'm thinking even after the first rebuild (I didn't do it) that it did not remove all the ethenol residue. Thats part of the problem when you can longer do some things you did your whole life with the car. Always hate not having hands on when it comes to this car.
 
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