new lifter ?

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demoncar71

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ok here goes, 71 340 motor with j heads, edelbrock rpm cam, 273 adustable rockers, had engine running but had ticking noise, found 273 pushrods to long, installed new shorter pushrods, noise was still there but not as bad, pulled lifters and they are not any good, ran this engine for about an hour and a half total, question is can i just replace lifters or do i need to replace the cam as well?
 
demoncar71 said:
ok here goes, 71 340 motor with j heads, edelbrock rpm cam, 273 adustable rockers, had engine running but had ticking noise, found 273 pushrods to long, installed new shorter pushrods, noise was still there but not as bad, pulled lifters and they are not any good, ran this engine for about an hour and a half total, question is can i just replace lifters or do i need to replace the cam as well?
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I'd pull the cam to see if it's screwed up. Why go into it twice when once can be enough
 
Yes. You can run new lifters on an old camshaft.
 
Good idea to check the cam before going any further. You should be able to get a good view by removing the intake as a first step. If the cam is good you can install new lifters on a used cam. Break in the new lifters if you change them.

When you selected your new pushrods, did you measure for the correct length? Your rocker arm adjusters should have 1 to 2 threads showing only with the right preload set. When installing the pushrods are you sure you adjusted the rockers appropriately with the cam on the base circle, adjust to 0 lash and then add 1/2 to one turn on the adjuster to set the hydraulic lifter preload? On hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers I usually measure, with the intake off, the amount of preload with a wire feeler gauge between the plunger and snap ring on the lifter. I measure the distance to get the recommended amount of minimum clearance and count how many turns of the adjuster it took to achieve it from 0 lash. I then set the rest without having to measure the snap ring clearance each time.
 
cam looks ok, yes i measured for the corrct length, the lifters will not pump up
 
to check the cam for unusual wear, just pull the valve covers and go from there.

i had a ticking noise too, and i pulled all my lifters out witout removing the intake. i did however remove the roller rockers, and pushrods. i used one of those bendable claws that you can get at dollar store. worked great , save me some money and time

i was also able to look through and see that the cam was in great shape
 
demoncar71 said:
cam looks ok, yes i measured for the corrct length, the lifters will not pump up
Click to expand...
I gotta ask, did you prime them first (you know drop them in a quart of oil (submerged) overnight and then put them in the motor)?
 
oil pressure 80 cold 30 hot, yes i soaked them, i just ordered a set of lunati lifters and called tech line they said not to soak them
 
ok. Lifters should not be soaked. If it's the lifters (and Edelbrock lifters ARE pretty bad..) and the mating surfaces of the cam and lifters look good (no scoring, burn marks, or any other uglies) then any new lifter will work. You just have to run the same break-in procedure like if the cam was brand new too.
 
mating surfaces look good, so i should use cam assembly lube on the new lifters?
 
Yup. Verify lifter rotation when you first put them in dry. Then use assembly lube on the lobes anad faces. It needs to start immediately and run above 1800rpm for at least 20 minutes before you let it idle. If you have dual valve springs, the inner spring should be removed... (this is not the flat wound dampener, but a true seperate inner spring)

Do it just like it was a brand new cam. Because to the cam, it is. You have to mate the lobe with the new lifter.
 
i put a new cam and lifter set from lunati and had to replace a lifter right after. didnt soak mine either.
 
I dunno, for 40 years-soak, pump up lifters; lately don't. What is up? Spring pressure will move the plunger back to normal.
Just fired up a 340 that hadn't been even turned over since 1987, primed it, started it, and had a tic. New lifters, from NAPA; 3 would not hand pump up. Got a new set, hand pumped up, installed, and no problems on that old purple cam.
 
i agree whats the deal with the no soak

what happens to the the lifter when priming the engine, they pump up right
can someone enlighten me,getting ready to start a fresh engine
 
By soaking, the lifter plunger is basically stuck full up when you torque the rockers down. It can hang valves open if they dont bleed down under valve spring pressure.I'n many cases this doesnt happen. But the reality is, not having the lifter full of oil will never cause damage. Having it full might. Plus, the lifters are actually pressure fed before the bearings. So they will get oil immediately and they won't hang valves that way.
 
..........I've been doing engines since the mid 70s, never 1ce have i pumped up a lifter ....coat the bottoms good with assambly lube, the sides with the oil ur going 2 use, coat each end of the pushrod and the rockers.......have never ever lost a lobe .....make sure u coat the cam good...kim........
 
I installed a set of 273 rockers on a 340 i had w a MP .508 cam and it ticked like hell. When i pulled it appart i found that the adjuster nuts on rockers were hitting the baffle in the stock valve covers. Bought a pair MP taller alluminum valve covers. No more ticks. May not be your case but figured id mention it.
 
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