New Member with a big question

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NOLA_Jack

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Ok, heres the situation.

I drive a 1973 340 plymouth duster. I had been having problems with it, but when I let my sister drive it recently, the thermostat gasket went out, the motor overheated and I wound up with water/coolant in my oil. She noticed the car overheating, not by the thermostat conveniently placed behind the column shift, but my steam pouring out from under the hood. Gotta love family. In addition to this, I have some serious leaks in my transmission, I recently had to adjust the linkage which holds it in park, and stops it from lurching in neutral/park, as it was doing both. The transmission seemed to stop acting up afterwards, however I'm not sure as to how well it is now, because I only drove it once before my sister got ahold of it.

My guess, and the guess of the guy at the local shop is that overheating blew the head gasket and/or cracked a head. In addition to this I might need work on the transmission.

The estimate on the motor is 800-1000. The estimate on the transmission is 2000-2500.

As of now, I'm out of a vehicle, which means that I'm out of work. And being that I just turned 20, I only have about 3600 saved up.

So, the basic question is, do you think the estimates are realistic, or over the top. And do you think it is worth it to have the car repaired, should I just have the motor fixed, and hope that the linkage adjustment solved the entire problem, or should I cut my losses and let it go?

I have basic tools at my house, however if the car needs headwork that isn't something I can do myself.

As for the condition of the rest of the car, it was in an accident with frame damage about a year ago, which was repaired, however frame damage is always still frame damage. The driverside rear quarter panel needs to be replaced, and the car definatly needs a new paint job.

As for the prospect of a new car, I can afford a note, as my job pays decently, I just haven't been there long enough to get a good bit of savings.

What are your thoughts/advice? Thanks.
 
my opinion only...take that 3600, find you another daily driver...somethin cheap and easy...i always swore i would buy like a cordoba or a fifth avenue if i had to get a daily driver...then continue yer work save some $$$ and slowly build that 340 into a pony killer! May kill you to park it for a bit but the end result will be way worth the wait, plus you can buy NEW transmissions for way less than 2500 bucks! see?

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=111138

anyways just my two cents...
Floyd
 
ibleedmoparts said:
my opinion only...take that 3600, find you another daily driver...somethin cheap and easy...i always swore i would buy like a cordoba or a fifth avenue if i had to get a daily driver...then continue yer work save some $$$ and slowly build that 340 into a pony killer! May kill you to park it for a bit but the end result will be way worth the wait, plus you can buy NEW transmissions for way less than 2500 bucks! see?

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=111138

anyways just my two cents...
Floyd
Click to expand...
Yes, what he said.
 
The estimate on the motor is 800-1000. The estimate on the transmission is 2000-2500.
Those figures look backward to me.
Every high milage engine that got water or gas in the oil didn't live very long with just fault corrected. The sediment gets washed out of the main bearings and rod bearings causing them to fail.
If a linkage adjustment cured the trans issue, thats all good for now.
You have a 73 340 which is somewhat rare so spend whatever it takes to rebuild that engine before it self destructs.
The transmissions are all too common and easy to replace.
 
ibleedmoparts said:
my opinion only...take that 3600, find you another daily driver...somethin cheap and easy...i always swore i would buy like a cordoba or a fifth avenue if i had to get a daily driver...then continue yer work save some $$$ and slowly build that 340 into a pony killer! May kill you to park it for a bit but the end result will be way worth the wait, plus you can buy NEW transmissions for way less than 2500 bucks! see?

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=111138

anyways just my two cents...
Floyd
Click to expand...

Thats what I had been thinking, in addition mines a 904, which I'm pretty sure isn't as good, or expensive of a transmission as the 727.
 
Redfish, are you saying that I should try to have the motor totally rebuilt, or what?

It was rebuilt 20K miles or less ago, with a .490 lift cam, so I don't know if youd call it a high mileage motor or not, since it was rebuilt so recently.
 
Hey Jack. I'll have to say the 904 is a preety good tranny. If you plan on makeing alot of power infront of it, then a beefing up is needed. Then it will last.
 
The trans is out of line. I just saw several on Craigslist that would fit it for $100-$250. Then having it put in would be another $200-$300. True, you will have a used trans rather than a new rebuilt but there are a lot of good parts to be had.
 
I was refering to high milage common to 1973 engine. If it only has 20k miles on it and was put together right it will be a fingers crossed, pray about it, situation. If it still runs I'd be cooking all the water out of it today.
 
I had ran it after replacing the thermostat gasket and it was doing fine, the only reason I even checked the oil was to make sure there wasn't any water in it, not due to any real symptoms in the driving. So you're probably right about the crossed fingers and prayer solution.
 
Cope Racing Transmissions ( www.coperacingtrans.com ) has rebuilt stock 904's for less than 600. they are very nice people and do quality work.

I would take the engine out, clean it up and make sure everything looks good. If there is nothing obviously wrong with the metal parts (you should be able to see a blown intake or head gasket), I would put it back together and run it. If there is an issue, you can get a used 318 that will work in the time being for nearly nothing.
 
Go to the local wreckers. Pick up a running 318/904 combo. Drop it in for now.

Fix the original stuff later,but do it right.
 
Young man I think Floyd pass along some sound advice to you. Get yourself a good sound dependable daily driver to get you to work and around town. Put your Duster under wraps for the time being and invest your time and money into it over a period of time. You can save some cash by getting your tools out and tearing down your engine. Drain out the bowl on your carb, take it off and protect it from rusting/gumming up, take off your intake then your heads. If you do have a cracked head the crack my be readily apparent but if it isn't you might be able to reveal it by simply dye checking it, which is cheap. If that doesn't reveal anything you can take them to a shop and have them checked out utilizing other methods which you don't have the equipment to do. As long as you have another ride take the time to pull the wrenches on the car and learn it top to bottom. Even if you don't do a lot of replacement of the rotating members in your engine (crank,pistons,cam etc) take it apart, inspect learn how to use a set of outside and inside micrometers, depth gauges, calipers and other useful precision tools for rebuilding engines, transmissions, rear ends etc,etc.
I go with Floyd that you can get a new transmission for less than $ 2,500.00. Might take some looking and patience but eventually you'll find one. As far as body work if you have a technical school in your area check to see if they have an auto body course that you could sign up for and take your car as your semester or more project. Use their facilities, tools and teachers to do your drivers side quarter panel plus any other areas of body cancer that needs attended to then put a nice paint job on Duster. I have a dozen old muscle cars and once in a awhile I don't feel like paying a body shop big bucks to replace some floor pans or trunk sections or quarter panel so I go down to the local vo-tech pay my meager shop fee, load the car body on my rotisserie and take it over there to do a little resto work on it. I have a 69 GTX and a 69 Mach 1 I am going to do some work on over there.

Last but certainly not least. Keep the keys in your pocket and tell whomever wants to "Borrow your car to run an errand" that you will be glad to run em around for a little gas money but they are certainly NOT going to be driving your ride without you in it behind the wheel.

Just some suggestions for ya

The CudaMan- Ron
 
CudaMan said:
Young man I think Floyd pass along some sound advice to you. Get yourself a good sound dependable daily driver to get you to work and around town. Put your Duster under wraps for the time being and invest your time and money into it over a period of time. You can save some cash by getting your tools out and tearing down your engine. Drain out the bowl on your carb, take it off and protect it from rusting/gumming up, take off your intake then your heads. If you do have a cracked head the crack my be readily apparent but if it isn't you might be able to reveal it by simply dye checking it, which is cheap. If that doesn't reveal anything you can take them to a shop and have them checked out utilizing other methods which you don't have the equipment to do. As long as you have another ride take the time to pull the wrenches on the car and learn it top to bottom. Even if you don't do a lot of replacement of the rotating members in your engine (crank,pistons,cam etc) take it apart, inspect learn how to use a set of outside and inside micrometers, depth gauges, calipers and other useful precision tools for rebuilding engines, transmissions, rear ends etc,etc.
I go with Floyd that you can get a new transmission for less than $ 2,500.00. Might take some looking and patience but eventually you'll find one. As far as body work if you have a technical school in your area check to see if they have an auto body course that you could sign up for and take your car as your semester or more project. Use their facilities, tools and teachers to do your drivers side quarter panel plus any other areas of body cancer that needs attended to then put a nice paint job on Duster. I have a dozen old muscle cars and once in a awhile I don't feel like paying a body shop big bucks to replace some floor pans or trunk sections or quarter panel so I go down to the local vo-tech pay my meager shop fee, load the car body on my rotisserie and take it over there to do a little resto work on it. I have a 69 GTX and a 69 Mach 1 I am going to do some work on over there.

Last but certainly not least. Keep the keys in your pocket and tell whomever wants to "Borrow your car to run an errand" that you will be glad to run em around for a little gas money but they are certainly NOT going to be driving your ride without you in it behind the wheel.

Just some suggestions for ya

The CudaMan- Ron
Click to expand...

Good advise! Beats mine. I recall loaning my 76 feather duster (light) with/6 drum brakes to my younger brother. It came back on a tow hook. He tried to negotiate a corner at speed coming off the highway and ended up jumping a meridian. It was a write off. I ended up parting it out.
 
When I bought my Kawasaki KZ750 new in 1981, one of the first things in the owner's manual was (paraphrasing) to keep your motorcycle in optimal condition, do not let anyone else ride it. The salesman couldn't make that point enough.
It's a fact, most people won't take care of your stuff like you do.
 
These cars popped head gaskets all the time. My first 318 did within the first 100 miles of me owning it, and it was my first car project in my life. In terms of pricing, you need to know if it just overheated, or warped something. How long was it driven with water in the oil? What does the oil look like? The estimate of $800-1000 is accurate. but really, they should tell you it's an hour or two of labor to determine how bad it is, and then they get back to you.

That transmission estimate is BS. A full race trans will cost $2500. A rebuilt torqflite, either 904 or 727, is under $1000 from the shops in CT, which typically are pricey. Figure at most $1200 with a new convertor and aux trans cooler if needed. I would have the engine diagnosed, then see what you want to do. Shouldnt be more than $200 to have that done.
 
i guess my biggest question is, do you have the mechanical tools and skills to do the work yourself ? a whole lot of money can be saved by you if you do the component removal yourself. i suggest this from past experience.in most cases you can get your heads done at a local shop for 250.00 - 350.00 and then reinstall them yourself. the gasket kit for the top end is fairly inexpensive and, its pretty straight forward stuff. you will be much happier if you get it done and save a few bucks on the way.now, if your oil is milky you better change the mains and rods (bearings). they are also inexpensive and worth not having to worry about. the pride and accomplishment you get from this kind of thing can go a long way to making you keep your keys in your pocket. as far as the trans goes this too is a good project. go buy a core from the nearest salvage yard,(notice i didn't say junk) and get a rebuild kit from napa. i haven't done one in a couple years, but the kit was less than 100.00.keep us posted and good luck.
 
Does he have a place to store and work on the car? If not he may not be able to keep it as a second vehicle and fix it up on the side.
 
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