New motor backfiring through carb

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I tell you what, fruitcake fred, people give you advice and the first thing you do is argue. You better be glad that's all I said. Now shut up and go fix your car.

I don’t believe I ever argued with anyone in this thread. I wanted clarification on the response I got about it being 180 out.

I’ve spent enough time on this forum to know what your persona on here is like. It makes me question how many young people you have turned away from this hobby in real life. I hope you have a good day Rusty.
 
If a crust old gearhead turns anybody away from this hobby, they were too much of a pussy for it in the first place. And thanks. You have a good day too. I do hope you get your engine running again.

I think I’ll take your wise advice and just give up on it. After 14 years of wrenching on this car and taking the motor out nearly half a dozen times I guess it’s just time to send it to the crusher.
 
Am I going to have to take this thread down until I can sift through it to clean it up and get it back on track? I can and I will if necessary and the members that complain will get a few weeks off. Everybody understand?
 
Am I going to have to take this thread down until I can sift through it to clean it up and get it back on track? I can and I will if necessary and the members that complain will get a few weeks off. Everybody understand?

Yup. Sorry bout that. It just gets under my skin when the first post after multiple agreeing suggestions is argumentative. I think my new policy is going to be this. If somebody wants my help, send me a PM. Otherwise, I'm here for fun. Again Mike my apologies.
 
This is what i would do, pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger over the hole and bump the starter till you feel compression. The roll the engine over by hand to zero. Pull the intermediate shaft back out and reinstall it pointing toward the forward dr side intake bolt, install the distributor with the rotor pointing the same way. Button it up and it should start. Then set the ignition timing
 
This is what i would do, pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger over the hole and bump the starter till you feel compression. The roll the engine over by hand to zero. Pull the intermediate shaft back out and reinstall it pointing toward the forward dr side intake bolt, install the distributor with the rotor pointing the same way. Button it up and it should start. Then set the ignition timing

Why not roll it forward and get a little lead time on the ignition? Make ir easier on yourself. If I am wrong let me know, it's what I plan to do.
 
Why not roll it forward and get a little lead time on the ignition? Make ir easier on yourself. If I am wrong let me know, it's what I plan to do.
You can, once you have 0, and #1 pointing at the correct pole on the cap. If you have timing tape, or marked your balancer, if you want to rotate the motor to say 12 btdc, roll the motor to that mark, move the distributor to line back up on the cap, and lock it down. May not be exact, but will be close. Id still check it with a light
 
This is what i would do, pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger over the hole and bump the starter till you feel compression. The roll the engine over by hand to zero. Pull the intermediate shaft back out and reinstall it pointing toward the forward dr side intake bolt, install the distributor with the rotor pointing the same way. Button it up and it should start. Then set the ignition timing

I agree. And to add, the distributor tang and the rotor are offset by ~15 degrees. So the rotor ends up pointing to the front of the car. See post # 18.
 
Doog #3 ---- "I pulled the distributor to prime the pump"

Doog #14 ----"I put the intermediate shaft in to get the distributor to sit in ….."

Doog #22 ----- "I also actually never did remove the distributor during the installation"

Could someone decode this? ----------- Or is this just Washington speak?
 
I agree. And to add, the distributor tang and the rotor are offset by ~15 degrees. So the rotor ends up pointing to the front of the car. See post # 18.


I've seen many distributors that are off by more than 15 degrees. I've seen a few where the rotor and the tang are lined up. I don't think there is any rhyme or reason to it. Wish there was though.
 
I've swapped distributors before to diagnose an engine issue and the rotor vs the tang were oriented differently. Gotta watch for that. Both distributors were elec ignition.
 
I've swapped distributors before to diagnose an engine issue and the rotor vs the tang were oriented differently. Gotta watch for that. Both distributors were elec ignition.

I put one of those POS Pro Comp distributors on my car one day and it ran like **** at low R's.
Come to find out the rotor tip was damn near at the number 8 contact in the cap when the distributor was supposed to be firing number 1.
Once the centrifugal timing started coming in it ran ok.
I had to pull the pickup out of it and drill new screw holes for the damn rotor to be pointing where it should when the reluctor points lined up.

Then after all that I threw it back in the box and shelved it marked POS distributor that works now.:D

I was doing it to possibly be able to run the red male terminal cap and 10.2mm Dragon Fire wires using a Ram C core coil.

SANY0023.JPG
 
I put one of those POS Pro Comp distributors on my car one day and it ran like **** at low R's.
Come to find out the rotor tip was damn near at the number 8 contact in the cap when the distributor was supposed to be firing number 1.
Once the centrifugal timing started coming in it ran ok.
I had to pull the pickup out of it and drill new screw holes for the damn rotor to be pointing where it should when the reluctor points lined up.

Then after all that I threw it back in the box and shelved it marked POS distributor that works now.:D

I was doing it to possibly be able to run the red male terminal cap and 10.2mm Dragon Fire wires using a Ram C core coil.

View attachment 1715389384

What I find interesting is that the centrifugal advance of the distributor moves the rotor tip about 1/2 inch, yet the rotor tip is only 1/4 inch wide. Pretty clever engineering.
 
If the rotor is rightly phased it will move about one half it's travel range from before to a half-range after the tower. The electrons will jump from anywhere on that rotor, to the nearest conductive surface with the lowest resistance; including constructing it's own conductors namely carbon tracks. That rotor half-range has to be less than half the distance between the towers, or the spark could still jump to the wrong tower, on account of it's not real happy to jump the spark plug in the first place , in the cylinder under pressure. If it takes 20,000 volts to jump the proper one and 5000 to jump the previous one, which is now on the power stroke, or 5000 on the next one now on the intake stroke; guess which one it's going to fire.
If the phasing is off by too much, it is possible for the spark , which in most systems can jump even a 1/2" gap in open air, to jump to the wrong tower.
On a D from a slanty or an old 318 where there might be 30* or more of mechanical advance in the cam, I have occasionally had to file the rotor-tip at a severe angle to ensure reliable arcing to the correct tower. That 30*on the damper is 15 inside the D and there is only 45* between towers and half of that is 22.5. So, with 5* idle timing, and really crappy phasing, it is theoretically possible to be pushing the envelope, as the mechanical advance finishes up, giving your engine fits at somewhere after 3000rpm on a stocker.
I guess it doesn't happen often cuz in 50 years I've only run into it a few times, and I was not an auto mechanic all those years,lol. The longest I ever held one job was 5.5 years, altho I went back to one same employer three times; you know; money talks.
 
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If the rotor is rightly phased it will move about one half it's travel range from before to a half-range after the tower. The electrons will jump from anywhere on that rotor, to the nearest conductive surface with the lowest resistance; including constructing it's own conductors namely carbon tracks. That rotor half-range has to be less than half the distance between the towers, or the spark could still jump to the wrong tower, on account of it's not real happy to jump the spark plug in the first place , in the cylinder under pressure. If it takes 20,000 volts to jump the proper one and 5000 to jump the previous one, which is now on the power stroke, or 5000 on the next one now on the intake stroke; guess which one it's going to fire.
If the phasing is off by too much, it is possible for the spark , which in most systems can jump even a 1/2" gap in open air, to jump to the wrong tower.
On a D from a slanty or an old 318 where there might be 30* or more of mechanical advance in the cam, I have occasionally had to file the rotor-tip at a severe angle to ensure reliable arcing to the correct tower. That 30*on the damper is 15 inside the D and there is only 45* between towers and half of that is 22.5. So, with 5* idle timing, and really crappy phasing, it is theoretically possible to be pushing the envelope, as the mechanical advance finishes up, giving your engine fits at somewhere after 3000rpm on a stocker.
I guess it doesn't happen often cuz in 50 years I've only run into it a few times, and I was not an auto mechanic all those years,lol. The longest I ever held one job was 5.5 years, altho I went back to one same employer three times; you know; money talks.

Thanks for the education.
 
Am I going to have to take this thread down until I can sift through it to clean it up and get it back on track? I can and I will if necessary and the members that complain will get a few weeks off. Everybody understand?

Not sure who complained. I know how rusty is and I got a thick skin. It’s all good.
 
Doog #3 ---- "I pulled the distributor to prime the pump"

Doog #14 ----"I put the intermediate shaft in to get the distributor to sit in ….."

Doog #22 ----- "I also actually never did remove the distributor during the installation"

Could someone decode this? ----------- Or is this just Washington speak?

Yea I’ll decode it for you. I didn’t remove the distributor during the installation of the engine. I removed it to prime the oil pump. Someone was suggesting that I may have taken it out and put it in before marking it.
 
what the concern is, when you pull the distributor drive to spin the pump, it might not go back in on the right tooth in relation to the cam. then the slot would not be right. so if you use whatever marks you made, it still might not be in the right place relative to TDC. do you have a picture of how you marked everything?
 
what the concern is, when you pull the distributor drive to spin the pump, it might not go back in on the right tooth in relation to the cam. then the slot would not be right. so if you use whatever marks you made, it still might not be in the right place relative to TDC. do you have a picture of how you marked everything?

Nope. It doesn’t matter. I screwed up somewhere along the line so I’m starting from scratch tomorrow. My best guess is that when I pulled the distributor out to prime the pump that the shaft spun. I made sure the gears were on what I thought was the correct tooth but if it had spun at that point then I was off. Who knows but I’ll have it taken care of tomorrow hopefully.
 
Nope. It doesn’t matter. I screwed up somewhere along the line so I’m starting from scratch tomorrow. My best guess is that when I pulled the distributor out to prime the pump that the shaft spun. I made sure the gears were on what I thought was the correct tooth but if it had spun at that point then I was off. Who knows but I’ll have it taken care of tomorrow hopefully.
yup, get some sleep and go fresh. if you have a service manual it will have the "how to" for setting TDC and lining up the distributor slot
 
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