New rotors and pads but now pulls to the left

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MrJLR

MrJLR

Built, not bought
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Well, thanks to all the help I got here I got the correct rotors and pads.
New wheel bearings etc.....
All my brake vibration is GONE! Woohoo!

But, it pulls to the left now when I brake.......

I'm thinking I need to rebuild the calipers? !!!!!


:burnout:
 
I'll do them too......rebuilt calipers are cheap, May as well do calipers and the hoses.

Ya think the hoses are why it's pulling??



:burnout:
 
Every disk brake car I've owned pulls one way or the other, switching when it feels like it. Grab hold of the steering wheel and drive.
 
Ben Drinkin said:
How's the alignment? Suspension condition? May not be brake related at all..
Click to expand...

Suspension isn't great - but not terrible either.
The pulling only happens when I brake.....

Tires look "ok"...!


Also, side note question, what master cylinder should I have.
I have disk in front and drums in the rear but the front is apparently from a 73 to 76 Duster.
How do I know the previous owner used the correct master cylinder?

Thanks!

:burnout:
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Every disk brake car I've owned pulls one way or the other, switching when it feels like it. Grab hold of the steering wheel and drive.
Click to expand...

Uh, NO. If the disks are causing the car to pull to one side during braking, something is wrong. Checking the calipers and hoses is a good start. If you have slider type calipers, also take a look at the caliper brackets where the calipers slide back and forth. They should be clean and free from any rust, pitting, or excessive wear (they can wear out!). If you have pin-style calipers, check the pins for wear and cleanliness as well. Could be one of the calipers isn't sliding freely on the caliper bracket or pins.

If all of that checks out, move onto the wheel bearings, suspension components, and alignment.
 
MrJLR said:
Suspension isn't great - but not terrible either.
The pulling only happens when I brake.....

Tires look "ok"...!


Also, side note question, what master cylinder should I have.
I have disk in front and drums in the rear but the front is apparently from a 73 to 76 Duster.
How do I know the previous owner used the correct master cylinder?

Thanks!

:burnout:
Click to expand...




One of thé caliper is mot releasing correctly or at aller maybe
Take a ride and see if one of the wheel is Hotter then the other
If si pût thé car on a jack ans rotate thé wheel isnt suppose tout je garde ton rotate
If one of thé wheel is harder then you round the bad caliper

By the way i alwais replace the chose when i do m'y caliper
Little more costly but thar i know Evert thing is find
 
Sweet....new calipers and hoses are ordered.

Any thoughts on the master cylinder? ??
 
2 thoughts
1) if the M/C has 1 reservoir larger than the other, then it is a disc/drum
2)If both reservoirs are the same size, then it is a drum/drum M/C, and those usually have residual valves in both ports. The R-valve must not be in the disc port. There are three ways to tell if its in there;
A) take it apart and look, or
B) jack up the front of the car to get both front wheels in the air. Have an assistant apply and release the front brakes several times, while you attempt to rotate the wheels.Just as he releases the pedal, the wheels should immediately spin freely.This indicates that the fluid is returning to the m/c as it should. It also indicates that the sliders are probably ok, and that seal retraction is working.
C) the third way can be messy.I have never used this method to check for an R-valve, but have used this method to check for other things.Put rags all around the m/c to a distance of about a foot and a half. Put extra on the fender and extra towards the windshield. Pop the cover off the reservoir.Have an assistant push the pedal down about 3/4 of an inch, while you eyeball the large reservoir.Then have him S-L-O-W-L-Y bring the pedal back to the top.You will be looking for a little fountain of brake fluid returning. If nothing happens, repeat but increase the pedal application to 1inch.Repeat as often as necessary, adding 1/4 inch to the stroke each time.If the fountain never appears, or the fluid barely breaks the surface, I would be looking in the port.
I cant stress the slowly part enough.A too-deep stroke with a too-rapid release can drive the fluid high enough to hit the hood, and it doesnt fall back into the reservoir! Use methods A or B.
 
MrJLR said:
It does not....both the same size....my first clue something ain't right!

So what MC do I need? !!


:burnout:
Click to expand...

Sounds like a drum/drum master. Power or manual disks?

Power: Raybestos Part # MC36406

Manual: Raybestos Part # MC36412

You should be able to get something at the local auto parts store with those numbers and a cross-reference. If the drum/drum master is still on there, my guess would be that you need a new proportioning valve as well, because the drum/drum cars had distribution blocks not proportioning valves.

Like this one-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-74-Mopar-A-B-body-Disc-Brake-Distribution-Brass-Block-Proportioning-Valve-/190820430151?hash=item2c6dc8b147&vxp=mtr

images


Or add an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve. Otherwise the brake balance from front to rear is going to be incorrect.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Every disk brake car I've owned pulls one way or the other, switching when it feels like it. Grab hold of the steering wheel and drive.
Click to expand...

Boy not here!!! I've generally had WAY less trouble with disk systems than drum. My first car with disk brakes was the old V code 6BBL 70 RR. "In it's day" that thing would REALLY stop.

I didn't put all that many miles on the 67 before I tore it down for paint, but I threw it together, drove a few easy slow miles and then "tried it out." Nope. Does not pull.
 
72bluNblu said:
Sounds like a drum/drum master. Power or manual disks?

Power: Raybestos Part # MC36406

Manual: Raybestos Part # MC36412

You should be able to get something at the local auto parts store with those numbers and a cross-reference. If the drum/drum master is still on there, my guess would be that you need a new proportioning valve as well, because the drum/drum cars had distribution blocks not proportioning valves.

Like this one-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-74-Mopar-A-B-body-Disc-Brake-Distribution-Brass-Block-Proportioning-Valve-/190820430151?hash=item2c6dc8b147&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...


Duh....guess I should have mentioned they're non-power brakes.....
I'll go Google "MC36412c right now...

Thank you all so much!


:burnout:
 
PoisonDart,
I have been driving db cars since 1970 and never had a db related pull that I couldnt cure.And never ever had a seesaw db pull.
So im not sure if you are being serious, or have just been extremely unfortunate.
 
New calipers, hoses, and master cylinder ordered.
(already replaced the rotors, bearings and pads today.

I'll just let it sit until the weekend.

Woohoo!


:burnout:
 
Your old caliper could have also been wore in the bore, not allowing the piston to go all the way back.
 
72bluNblu said:
Uh, NO. If the disks are causing the car to pull to one side during braking, something is wrong. Checking the calipers and hoses is a good start. If you have slider type calipers, also take a look at the caliper brackets where the calipers slide back and forth. They should be clean and free from any rust, pitting, or excessive wear (they can wear out!). If you have pin-style calipers, check the pins for wear and cleanliness as well. Could be one of the calipers isn't sliding freely on the caliper bracket or pins.

If all of that checks out, move onto the wheel bearings, suspension components, and alignment.
Click to expand...

Got to disagree, all of it is good working order. Might be a touch out of alignment, never been a big deal. Or maybe I'm just a terrible human being. Alas this is about the OP problem. Don't want to de-rail that.
 
I really appreciate the help I got here.
Like I said, I've only had the car a week and it's been through a lot of changes before me.

I'm gonna look into a proportioning valve after I install the stuff I ordered.
And I'm documenting what it has for my future needs and someday (after I'm dead!), the next owner!


:burnout:
 
There is little chance a prop valve is going to be your problem, it's not something that goes bad 'on a whim'.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
There is little chance a prop valve is going to be your problem, it's not something that goes bad 'on a whim'.
Click to expand...

I understand. .........I just don't think the previous owner even put one in when they switched it to disk brakes.


:burnout:
 
Okie dokie; while you at it, you might want to add an adjustable prop valve for the rear brakes.

If you go that route, below in the diagram of the 73+ disk brake prop valve. Be sure to take the bottom 'plug' out and remove the guts in that prop valve your about to install first.


c3tk8.jpg



FWIW your onto something with replacing the calipers while your at it.

Also a big fan of the brake booster deletion.... But that's another topic!
 
If this is a new development;
If it pulls to the left then the left caliper is working, and the right;not so much.Could be anything between the C-valve and the rotor,pad interface,unless theres no right front wheel on it!
But if you dont have a C-valve, and the pedal is hard, then blunblu is on target,per post #8.
Course if you woulda jacked up the car and just tested it, you would already know whats going on.
 
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