new to me engine - what to do with it ?

[mikemann00]

Engine as purchased , also ordered baffles for the valve covers since there are none where the pcv's are.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I took the liberty of going to an on-line Dcr calculator, and using the cam specs you supplied,and with a bore of 3.94, stroke of 3.31, a total chamber volume of 83cc, and an intake closing point of 70*ABDC, Your Dcr would be 6.65( with a generous static cr of 9.1)
Thats 6.65! The heads and the cam really need to go.

 

[sireland67]

I took the liberty of going to an on-line Dcr calculator, and using the cam specs you supplied,and with a bore of 3.94, stroke of 3.31, a total chamber volume of 83cc, and an intake closing point of 70*ABDC, Your Dcr would be 6.65( with a generous static cr of 9.1)
Thats 6.65! The heads and the cam really need to go.

AJ run that thru the calculator again, un-cut X heads are around 76 cc

 

[AJ/FormS]

Yeah thats TOTAL chamber volume;Chamber + gasket + deck + dish for 9.1 cr
I worked the formula backwards to arrive at those numbers, and suddenly realized theres no way to get 9.1cr with those heads.Which means the Dcr would be even worse.
Say the pistons are down in the hole .100, thats 20cc,the heads are 72cc, and the gasket is 8.5cc. TOTAL chamber volume is 100.5! Your actual STATIC cr is7.6. and the Dcr is 5.82!
Sorry. I was wrong. Its not in the basement. Its under the foundation.

 

[mikemann00]

At 6.65 it shouldn't run like it does , they cc'd at 72 when they were checked , Could you run that again id appreciate it.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Post 29 edited

 

[mikemann00]

Ok 5.82 , That sucks , It runs good and more than gets out of its own way , I then wonder what 9.0 - 9.5 feels like ?

 

[MoparDaddy]

Perhaps i missed it, but what is your timing set at. that dude is supposed to be 16* advanced right out of the box. the 340 heads will do fine with a bit more compression imo.

My Ugly beast below lol

 

[krazykuda]

mikeman:

from picture 1 in post #26, I don't like the way the alternator is set up. No triangular bracket for the pivot, and it looks like the wrong curved bracket for the adjustment, not to mention that the alternator has a double pulley on it which is for an A/C car, non A/C cars had a single pulley alternator. The belts will not line up correctly if you have the proper pulleys....

I would check the pulleys to make sure that they are correct. If you can get some more close up pictures of the front of the engine showing the alternator, water pump, crank and p/s pulleys so I can see if they are ok or not.

Here are some pictures of a small block that my son and I built for his 71 Valiant. It has the aluminum water pump like yours and we also converted his from an original A/C car to a non A/C car.

I also would recommend bending a steel fuel line and minimize the amount of rubber for your fuel line. Here's a shot of how we bent ours, however, we are using a Holley carb, and you have the edelbrock, so you have to make adjustments for the different inlet, but here's how we routed ours:

Notice the triangular bracket for the pivot of the alternator:

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A01 B.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A05 B.jpg

Here are some shots of our alternator-water pump-crank pulleys and how they line up.

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Pulley A01 B2.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Pulley A02 B2.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Pulley A03 B2.jpg


Here's a link to Bouchellon performance for the alternator brackets. I believe that the non chrome one also comes with the proper bolts and spacers to mount the alternator:

http://bouchillonperformance.com/5251_alternator_brackets


Here's the 70 and later alternator bracket and mounting spacers and bolts from Mancini Racing:

http://www.manciniracing.com/albrac1970up.html


Here it is in chrome:

http://www.manciniracing.com/a1laalmokitw.html


Both companies also carry the alternators with the single pulley. Here's the link for Mancini Racing alternators:

http://www.manciniracing.com/chromal.html


bouchellon performance alternators:

http://bouchillonperformance.com/alternators


These are kind of expensive, but some of the cheaper ones from O'reilleys and Auto Zone may be bad off the shelf....


Here's the proper water pump pulley:

http://www.manciniracing.com/mawapua70upw.html


In chrome:

http://www.manciniracing.com/machwapua70u.html


Here's the proper double groove crank pulley for non A/C and power steering:

http://www.manciniracing.com/maabcrwipost.html


This will help get you back to the factory correct set up for your period car. I am concerned about the way that the alternator is mounted without the center pivot bolt triangular bracket... :???:

 

[mikemann00]

10* as per factory spec , That's where the po has it , I will be changing that though , I just got my vac tool today and am waiting for my new ignition to show up then adjusting I will go....

 

[krazykuda]

Ok 5.82 , That sucks , It runs good and more than gets out of its own way , I then wonder what 9.0 - 9.5 feels like ?

Those are just numbers. I would recommend using this method to check the ACTUAL compression of your engine. It requires tearing it down and is best done on an engine stand, but will tell you ACCURATELY what you have. Anything else is just numbers which may or not apply to your set-up. You don't know if any of your parts have been milled and how much. This will show you EXACTLY where your parts are:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278215

 

[MoparDaddy]

Love the way you accented the timing tab Karl! I have to remember that

 

[MoparDaddy]

10* as per factory spec , That's where the po has it , I will be changing that though , I just got my vac tool today and am waiting for my new ignition to show up then adjusting I will go....

Thats pretty odd. Both my 86 and my friends 85 call for 16 via the sticker on the hood. That may be because theyre emissions trucks though too.

 

[krazykuda]

My Ugly beast below lol

You didn't post the selfie to go with this comment.... LOL!!!

 

[krazykuda]

Love the way you accented the timing tab Karl! I have to remember that

I always paint the timing marks with white out or white/silver touch up paint so I can see them better with the timing light.... :glasses7:

 

[mikemann00]

Ill have to look at the alt KrazyKuda I appreciate the advice on it and the links , I do know the belt is tight and is running straight , All is charging correctly and doesn't squeal , It was an a/c truck originally though (reason for the dual pulley) , Slowly but surely we will get her straightened out.

 

[MoparDaddy]

You didn't post the selfie to go with this comment.... LOL!!!

LMAO! :finga:

 

[krazykuda]

Ill have to look at the alt KrazyKuda I appreciate the advice on it and the links , I do know the belt is tight and is running straight , All is charging correctly and doesn't squeal , It was an a/c truck originally though (reason for the dual pulley) , Slowly but surely we will get her straightened out.

Ok. I just wanted to let you know. We can help you get it straightened out when you have the time.

And don't call us Shirley.... LOL!

[ame]https://youtu.be/KM2K7sV-K74[/ame]

 

[mikemann00]

Quick timing ? though , I was told get best vac at idle in gear then back off 1" hg along with adjusting the idle mix screws at operating temp , with or without pcv plugged ? never done it this way I always used a light which I also have.

 

[mikemann00]

Ha , Airplane....Classic

 

[krazykuda]

Quick timing ? though , I was told get best vac at idle in gear then back off 1" hg along with adjusting the idle mix screws at operating temp , with or without pcv plugged ? never done it this way I always used a light which I also have.

Adjust for highest vacuum and idle (with tune-up tach and vacuum gauge) and then back off a couple degrees is usually how you find the best initial/idle timing. Take it for a spin and test it. See how it starts.

Then you want to check your total timing at 2500-3000 RPM. SB like 34°-36° total timing at 2500-300 RPM.

Then you need to dial in the distributor curve to match the idle timing and total timing so that they are in at the proper time (pun intended)...

 

[mikemann00]

Ok Kuda thank you.

 

[AJ/FormS]

To get the DCr up to 7.87 requires a TOTAL chamber of 70.5cc. Thats heads, gasket and deck & eyebrows, And a 70* closing intake valve. Now 70.5cc is a zero deck, 5cc eyebrows, 8.5 gasket and 57cc heads.So you would need pistons,decking and heads.
Retiming your cam to 68* yields 8.0Dcr,(with this 70.5 chamber)
Retiming to65*, yields 8.2Dcr
Retiming to 60*(probably a different cam;around a 262* adv.) yields 8.5Dcr.
If/when you dig into it, do your homework. Dont take these numbers as gospel cause I just yanked the first calculator I found.
Just to repeat; Its way, way,easier to bring up the Dcr with a longer stroke engine. Like the 360. You could reuse the entire topend that you have now. And probably that cam kit too.
Or a stroker kit for your teener.
Just a crazy thought, sparked by your saying the engine should be weaker with this low a calculated Dcr; Are you sure its a teener?

 

[mikemann00]

AJ I will definitely do more in depth homework but I appreciate your input on it , It is for sure a 318 , I was there when it was pulled , built and installed , I have been around this truck for the past 15 + years , It was my bro-in laws and his dad bought it new , I think he went with the bigger is better method when he got the heads , It was a toy for him that really never was driven but once a month , He had to move and I got a heck of a deal to keep it in the family , I will prob degree the cam and do 318 heads and call it done and use it as a cool parts getter from then on while saving for a 360 bottom end .

 

[mderoy340]

Get a compression test. Rip the timing cover off. Get the Mopar offset cam key kit. Keep the compression gauge screwed into #1. Advance the cam 4* and recheck compression. If there's not a big difference, advance it 4* more. slap it together and re tune and drive. I bet you add 25 LB FT or more down low. Over and out.

x2
First thing I would do is a compression check. Stock 318 in good condition is around 150 psi.
Advancing the cam closes the intake valve sooner, bumps up the DCR, and lowers the RPM band of the cam.